I wish I could tell you how it happened, I certainly never felt anything and only noticed it when I was walking back to the car. I understand it's going to be quite a costly repair so if I need to get it on insurance I suppose so be it. I was just wondering if anyone has any advice? I have taken it to several body shops but they won't touch it because it's a Tesla (Heaven forbid).

Thank you guys, this is my first post here and it sucks that it's under these circumstances, i've always just been more of a viewer than a participator here.

Is there anyway I can combine a few of my threads on my newly acquired 2016 model S
I’ve got a few things to ask about the car and I keep starting new threads. I figured it would be good to have a general thread. I’m wondering if I can combine them?

Thanks !

I never heard of this before, but it says my powerwall will not provide power for 24 hours during a calibration. So I will be using the grid only for this 24 hours I guess or not grid only during the day but at night of course it will be grid only.

I wonder how often this is going to happen?

This was never mentioned to me ever by anyone during this process of getting this new system.

Hi Tesla Community,

I'm planning a road trip in Colorado and will be staying at a mountain cabin Airbnb. The nearest Supercharger is 2 hours away, and I need to figure out a way to charge at the Airbnb to avoid anxiety about charging.

1. Can I use a 240-volt dryer outlet for Level 2 charging of my Tesla?
2. What type of adapter will I need for this setup?
3. Any safety tips or considerations when using a dryer outlet for charging?
4. Has anyone had similar experiences and can share how it worked out?

The regular 120-volt outlet charges too slowly, and I don’t want to worry about running out of charge because we will be using the car throughout the day. Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

Did a quick search of the forum but can't find anything related to my question.....

Has anybody in the UK got the Preview Sentry Recordings in their iOS app after the Spring Update?

Notateslapp shows availability as unknown in the UK, just wondering if anybody has got this working?

Cheers!

Hi everyone I just picked up a 24 M3P for my first Tesla (I love it I upgraded from a civic lol) and I just need some answers please? So I bought FSD and the cameras are calibrated and I used it one time so far but when I try using it again it defaults to autosteer instead of FSD beta even though it’s selected in the Autopilot tab. I also don’t know if smart summon or summon is available on the 24’s? I don’t have the option to enable it and if anyone could answer I’d appreciate it

I had the Y in for service today at Chatswood and by chance found out that they can retrofit the PWS speaker (and do so via their mobile service).

I've had enough encounters with surprised pedestrians that I'm going to get it installed, and hope to make it sound like a V8 with a lumpy cam on idle.

I am buying a White Performance Y and our Tesla lot has over 10 that fit what I want. So I have spent some time going over the cars to try to pick out the best one. Yes, very OCD. Going over the cars I find the same issues pretty consistently. Here is what I have found

- The front lights not being flush with the car on the bottom. In some I can put my fingers in underneath. Most had this issue to varying degrees.

- The rear passenger light is loose. This is the light piece that is opposite the one where you charge the car. I have discovered that I can fix the issue and been fixing on all the cars on the lot. Basically it was never clipped into place. You can do yourself by pushing it in until clicks. I had graded all the cars before I realize you could fix. So had to re-grade afterwards. Before this problem meant a no go.

- The rear doors are not flush. This problems tends to be a lot worse on the passenger side than the driver. But found it on both. All 10+ of the cars I am grading had this issue to varying degrees. I measure how far my fingers go in on each car. I do wonder if this issue will go away over time and the foam or whatever breaks in. Because I have checked a few used Teslas and they do not seem to have the issue to the same degree.

- I watched a lot of YouTube videos and some of the problems in the videos were not present. So for example the rear hatch door was perfectly aligned on every one of the cars I checked.

- The problem that really bugged me and a few cars had is hard to describe. In the front around the lights there is a place where several pieces of metal come together. I have found on several of the cars the metal on one of the pieces that comes together is is bent up and not flush. I tried to push it down and it did not help. So these cars were all given an F by me. About 33% of the cars I looked at had this problem to a very noticeable degree.

- The best of the cars and the one I am going to purchase had a rough spot on the wheel. But I do not think it is from hitting a curb. It appears to be just a small defect in the wheel and I hope they will replace. I did not find this problem on a single other Tesla. Basically if you take your fingers and circle where the tire meets the rim I found the rough spot. It is very slight. I prefer the one I purchased did not have this issue but there was not another that was nearly in as good of shape. This one the front lights for example are nice and flush and there was not another that had the same. Plus the rear doors are NOT flush but they are the closes of all the cars but the demo one. The demo one the doors are perfect and why I suspect this issue probably goes away over time as the rubber piece breaks in.


BTW, I am old and purchased many cars in my life and never done anything like this before buying a car. But when I go outside and do the same inspection with our existing cars there is not one that has anything like these issues. I look at the cars and the pieces fit a lot better than the Tesla. The lights are flush. The doors are flush. Pieces are very well aligned. It makes me curious why is the Tesla so much worse than other cars in this aspect?

Just got my M3 a few weeks ago. Accidently ran over curb slowly.. got home and clear liquid is leaking. Hopefully that is just from the AC? Also, should I be worried about driving through puddles and rain now? Is the seal damaged possibly?

The latest update was about :

• easier manual adjustment of windshield wipers (with scroll wheel) INSTEAD of making the software better in recognizing the amount of rain
• adding Audible INSTEAD of adding Google Auto (that has all these functions)
• adding games INSTEAD of ensuring that the car can achieve the posted mileage

Tesla is pushing innovation. I am so ... unimpressed...

Looking forward for the next round of fart sounds... SO FUNNY (for children)

Sorry if this has been addressed elsewhere, but can't find specific answer. I have 2023 M3/ LR / DM
I normally leave it plugged in when not in use. My normal usage does not bring the battery below 60%. I charge to 81% (personal quirk, I like it to read 80% when I leave my driveway.)
A Tesla tech told me today that I should occasionally (perhaps every 6 months) let the battery run down to about 10%, then charge to about 90%.
This, he said, would "exercise" the cells, like a person who sits a lot getting up and stretching.
Do others agree? Good, bad, no difference?
Thanks!

Hello to all,

I am hoping to get some ideas from you all to solve my home charging issues. We have a model 3 LR and I have been using a 75ft extension cable to charge at home using mobile charger. Until about 5 months or so ago would usually get 24 mi/hr and now its reducing amps to 12 and getting only 11-12 mi/hr.
The charger begins flashing red and the adapter end of the mobile charger and extension becomes hot. I recently purchased a new 10-30 adapter and that didn't seem to fix the issue. I have tried unplugging and plugging the cable on the car but it quickly reduces charge from 24-12 mi/hr.

Some more information, the wall plug (dryer) is nema 10-50, cable has 10-50 adapter on one end and other end is 10-30. Not sure if this is an issue with mismatching 10-50 and 10-30. My next plan is to upgrade the wall outlet, just unsure which would be a good choice as an upgrade.

Never had charging issue with same extension cable but both ends were same in the past, 10-30. Unsure if mobile charger itself is crapping out.

Please feel free to provide feedback.

Hey this is cool...got this Carplay Navicam 9.3 screen for about 100 bucks. Mounts like a charm in the cubby underneath the main screen. works really well with iphone.

I can replace 12V and then plug in to charge and see what happens? Can I create damage?

I’m pretty impressed with my 21. It seems to have only lost about 7km after nearly 3 yrs

I noticed this location pop up in my NAV which seems to be pretty new.

8 250 kW stalls w/magic dock

1001 Plum Creek Pkwy, Lexington, NE 68850 (Dollar Fresh Market)
I didn't see a pin on supercharge.info for this location either.

Hi,

We were wondering if the new 2024 tesla model y long range awd that starts shipping in june still has the NMC battery (or if it has been updated with the LFC battery) because we noticed that the range estimate for it was updated from 260 miles to 320 miles.

It is going to be our first electric car and we plan to own it for at least 8+ years, so we’re looking for a tesla with a battery pack that wont degrade quickly.

Thank you

I noticed my 2023 dual motor has awesome acceleration until about 70ish mph, and then dies off after. I know the acceleration boost lowers 0-60 times by a good amount, but will it also help with the 70-100+ mph times? or is it only good for the lower speed acceleration? Thank you

Hi! My MY started charging from time to time on 16amps instead of 32amps.
I have schedule to charge for the car to be ready by 9am.
So it started missing 9am deadline to be charged to the target level and still charges when I come over in a morning.

Had this setup for over a year (the NEMA14-50 outlet was from a previous EV).

I wonder if one of the phases contacts is no good? Could be some other reason?

Tesla does a quick test when I plug the car is and shows this correctly as level 2 charger / 32 amps.
But then somehow goes down to 16amps.
Is this something Tesla should be able to help? Not sure if it's a car or a charge problem.
There are no tripped circuit breakers or something like that

Title says it all.

Since I purchased the model Y last year, I have always connected to the 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network. I do have an access point right next to the Tesla, but I assume that 5 GHz was never an option. If I scan the area of everyone in the neighbourhood only the 2.4 networks are displayed. Of course my phone and all other devices are able to connect to the 5 GHz.

Just wanted some feedback are you guys able to connect to 5 GHz?

Official Model 3 Performance wheel weights! Pulled the tires off and got the wheels weighed!
Kudos to Tesla for making a lightweight forged wheel!

We weighed the aero covers separately at 1.58 lbs

Front without covers: 22.70 lbs
Rear without covers: 23.36 lbs

Front with covers: 24.28 lbs
Rear with covers: 24.94 lbs

Wheel specs: Front are 20x9 +34
Rear are 20x10 +45

Super lightweight compared to the 20x9 Uberturbines which weigh approximately 32 lbs each.

Also impressively close to our lightweight UP-03 forged wheels which in 20x9.5/10.5 weigh 21.46 lbs and 21.98 lbs, respectively, meaning UP wheels are roughly 2.75 lbs and 3 lbs lighter than M3P factory wheels (with aero covers) while gaining a half inch of width.

Upcoming UP 9”/10” staggered fitment with lower offsets coming soon are more comparable to stock and should net even more weight savings.

"Tesla admits that the cameras on the new Teslas are misleading and too poor, and says that customers must get out of the car to check for obstacles."

Hi all,
Just hit 68,000 miles on factory Pirelli P Zero PZ4 Elect (Rear 275/35 R21 103W; Front 255/35 R21 98W) and it's time for new tires. I'd like to note that 87% of the mileage is highway driving and tread is still decent.

Trying to decide between throwing on the same Pirelli tires or switching to Michelin. The Michelin option is Pilot Sport 4 All-Season for $1,800 from Costco or new Pirelli from Tesla at $2,400. I also have an option to get the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 Summer from Costco.

I'd like to stick with the original since getting 68k miles is insane, but can't ignore the $600 cost difference.

Questions are:
1. I think the Pirelli are considered "Summer tires" vs. the Michelin are all-season? Am I going to notice a difference?
2. The Pirellis have "T1" which I think means they're designed to Tesla specs?

My goal is to get as close to same mileage as I just did. I live in the south, so warm weather almost all year (no specific need for all season).

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!