Have a 2021 Model Y and have decided to purchase an aftermarket suspension and wheels. I would like the suspension to be adjustable. The easier to adjust the better. The wheels like to be forged, one piece, and lighter than the Gemini wheels that are currently on the car. Any and all suggestions is appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Why is this?

Is there any logical reason (engineering/warranty/cost etc) why Tesla would prevent the end user to direct (via the app)

1/ When to charge their battery? and

2/ How rapidly to charge their battery?

Is Elon Musk so arrogant that he thinks the AI in his app is so intelligent it knows everything about how/when/why a customer might want to charge their battery and when to discharge it?

Came across this Norwegian Website whilst looking for Australian standards for home charging an Electric Vehicle. Alt du trenger å vite om hjemmelading which if I understand the translation correctly is the Norwegian Automobile Association.

Given we share similarities with Norway's electrical system and they are further down the road in implementing EV's into their national road fleet, should we implement similar regulations

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Can I charge with a socket?
From 1 July 2022, you must install a charging box when you create a new charging point at home. The grounded socket for use for regular charging of electric cars has been removed in the new installation standard NEK 400:2022, which applies to low-voltage electrical installations.
This means that you must install a charging box with a type 2 connector if you need a new charging point for electric car charging.
The standard applies to new installations and does not have retroactive effect. It thus does not affect established charging points before 1 July 2022. The change also does not mean that emergency charging using an existing earthed household socket is prohibited.

From <Alt du trenger å vite om hjemmelading>


Charge with a standard socket
From July 2022, there is a requirement for a charging box with a type 2 connector for new installations for permanent electric vehicle charging - the standard does not have retroactive effect and so-called emergency charging is still permitted.
The fact that the standard does not have retroactive effect means that if you have arranged for permanent charging using a socket before July 2022, you can still use this installation for permanent charging. These are the rules that apply to installations made before 1 July 2022:

• You must have your own course for the electric car
• Max 10 A course
• The course must have an earth fault circuit breaker type B
• You must always pull the cable out of the car before removing the plug from the socket when you have finished charging

Install a basket or a hook that can be used to hang the charging box and cable when charging, both to relieve the weight of the charging cable (the connector cannot withstand the weight) and to avoid wear and tear on the charging equipment.
The guidelines for charging only apply where you charge on a daily basis. You can therefore "emergency charge" at your mother-in-law's or at a friend's, even if dedicated electric car charging is not planned. However, it is important to keep an eye on the contact during charging, as overheating may occur.
It is the Directorate for Public Safety and Emergency Preparedness that enforces the regulations for electrical installations.

• Read more about the guidelines for installation here

New standards for installation of charging points
The change in NEK 400:2022, which comes into effect on 1 July 2022, applies to low-voltage electrical installations. It consists in the fact that it is no longer possible to install an earthed household socket for use for daily or regular charging of electric cars.
This means that if charging is the purpose of the installation, you must install a charging box with a Type 2 connector.

From <Lade med vanlig stikkontakt>

Elon makes a sarcastic woke joke.
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As annoying as it is for everyone trying to get their cars, I'm glad Tesla is finally facing some sort of consequence for exaggerating their ratings. Us enthusiasts all know the numbers were BS, but so many people who aren't as plugged into the scene specifically chose Tesla because of those numbers.

And really the ratings changes were known about 2 years ago and Tesla could have used the revised methodology as early as last year. So it's really just awful planning on their parts.

mod note: moved these posts from order update thread

I decided to replace the wheel with a yoke myself but after I went into service menu to change the configuration to show yoke I get “unknown error.”

Anyone knows what the problem might be?

It’s really past the time that the Tesla board steps up to its responsibility’s put a full time CEO in place. Maybe Tom Zhu???

Let Elon create and think up crazy stuff. Today’s Tesla needs a more stable individual to lead the company.

You could see this happening through the years. Elon was the only person who could make Tesla live but as the years passed he was the only one who could really damage it. Not short sellers, not any competitors, not all the naysayers.

Just my humble opinion ….

Here in Virginia, it is common for railroads to be posted as having no speed limit. What this really means though is that the speed limit is 55 mph.

No clue why Virginia does it this way, but it is what it is.

Unfortunately when my Tesla is on these roads, it thanks that the speed limit is 40 mph.

Is there any setting or way for me to change this?

Has anyone experienced a knocking/ thumping sound coming from the front suspension when going up a driveway? I’ve noticed the steeper the driveway the louder the sound. As one wheel climb up the driveway it’s followed by one thump, then when the second wheel climbs up the driveway it’s followed by a second thump.

I took the vehicle to Tesla and they told me that the noise is being caused by the battery flexing, and that this type of noise is “normal”, although I’ve never experienced this in anyone else’s model Ys going up the same driveways.

I’ve scheduled an appointment at another service center, but I’m worried there is something wrong.

Here’s the iCloud link to the video of it and the sound.

When I drive I tend hug the outside line of the road, there’s been a few times over my years of driving that a driver in the oncoming lane of traffic drifted a few inches to 1 foot over the middle of road into my lane

FSD tends to get much closer to the center of the line in a road rather than the outside line, if a car in the other lane came over a few inches to 1 foot into my lane like has happened to me before they would most likely hit me head on if I had FSD on vs me driving and staying close to the outside line

Hi, I had a problem with excessive wear on the inside of both front tyres of my Tesla S 90D 2017 model. I had both tyres replaced with new ones but was told by Tyre Pro & Quik Fit in Letchworth, that they are unable to do wheel alignment checks anymore & this has to be done by Tesla. I just wondered if anyone could recommend anywhere to have this done, I live in SG16 postcode (between Hitchin & Bedford). Many thanks Simon

I previously owned a 2022 Ford Lightning Pro when they first came out. I loved the way the truck drove, but the cost of electricity in Massachusetts is awful. At 39 cents per kWh it was $150 less per month to put diesel into my work truck 2021 Silverado 1500 diesel at 28 mpg than to home charge the Lightning. The only way to reconcile that was to put solar on the house, but we knew we’d be moving in a couple years. The short range battery on my Lightning was also a deal breaker, so I sold it a couple months after purchase when they were still impossible to get.

Fast forward to now, we purchased a new home last year and had 14.58 kW of solar panels (36 405 watt panels) installed last month. I specified the solar to provide far more power than we need knowing that I’d want another EV or two in the next 20 years. They estimated our annual need at 8400 kWh, the system is supposed to exceed 16000 kWh. We are on a credits system where we don’t net meter for a check, but for bill credits at retail including delivery. The credits never expire and will keep up with inflation as rates increase. Now that the solar is cranking out power at a rate of 55 kWh on a sunny winter day (average daily use is ~20 kWh weekdays and 35 kWh weekends), I think we can move forward on an EV. My wife’s Tacoma lease is up end of March. The Tacoma has been a great truck, but I also have a 2021 Bronco and a 2001 Expedition for truck duties.

We demoed a MYLR last weekend and I was very impressed. I’m 6’4” 320# and found the car comfortable and easy to get in and out of. I liked the space and driving dynamics, although one pedal at 100% regen may take some getting used to. The trunk space seemed plentiful and I like the extra under floor storage and cargo cover on the 5 seat configuration. There was some wind noise at highway speeds on the demo car, but I pointed out to my wife that there isn’t any engine noise to cover it up like an ICE vehicle. She asked me later if we were going to test drive any of the competition (Mach E, Hyundai EV6 or Ioniq 5) and I said there was no point. The competition doesn’t have the same experience building EV’s, doesn’t have the same supercharger network (yet), and cost more money for desirable trims. We are looking at inventory cars rather than ordering, our spec will be a 5 seat, black interior, tow hitch, 19” wheels. We just need to decide between the gray or the blue exterior. I think the gray would look great with black wheel covers, but the blue keeps calling to me. White could be a possibility but it seems like there are a bunch of white Y on the road. Red and black are right out as my work truck is red and black is too hard to keep clean.

I briefly considered the performance model, I’m sure I’d love the way it accelerates. It would probably be enough to make my wife car sick and my 82 year old folks who we care for part of the year crap themselves. I don’t think the 21” wheels would do me any favors with the crap roads here. I don’t really want to spend the extra money or buy it then downsize the wheels for ride comfort. Rough calculations have the performance ($59773) model costing an extra $7450 compared to the inventory LR (52336). Well qualify for $11K in state and federal incentives and hopefully the extra $1K for my 2019 Cybertruck reservation.

My wife’s normal commute is 1.5 miles each way, sometimes she has to go to court 25 or 70 miles away. We will use the car for trips to Boston for airport runs, sports games, etc. We do a couple trips to northern VT each year, but I’d probably rather have my Bronco on that trip to do some offroad exploring.

That’s where we’re at, thanks for reading.

UQ has published a YouTube video with some of the results from its EV charging study.

The study gathered data from participants via the Teslascope service. Participants got a free Teslascope premium account if they enrolled.

I participated and I think a few others here too.

So about 850 Australian Tesla drivers were involved.

The video is here.

It goes for a bit over an hour, but worth a watch that I won’t try to summarise.

My M3 SR has been quite straight forward when it comes to mileage and battery capacity.
Today, I can't figure the problem below:
1) a week ago, I charged the battery to 100% (at home)
2) after driving for 4 days, the Trips report shows: 101 miles using 20 kWh (about 5 miles/ kWh) which is what I have seen since I bought the car.
3) the battery percentage show only 50% remaining. Full capacity is 57 kWh, using 20 kWh should give (57-20) / 57 = 65% approx.

Question: Where do the 17 kWh (37-20) goes ?

I always have dashcam on while driving and sentry on when parking outside of home. No change in these settings
And I only used climate for about 10 miles, once.

By coincidence , my car got a software update a day or two before I do a full charge.
The new software version is V11.1 (to improve warning reading on screen with larger fonts) , whether this new version causes this problem is still a puzzle to me.

Anyone runs in to similar problem ?

Was just talking to my NL company (Smart Salary) and they advised that they have been authorised by the ATO to start allowing claiming of home charging via the c/km method. He wasn't certain but believes it to be 4.2c/km (which is a lot more than charging is actually costing me!).

They should be communicating out to customers very soon and have the facility in the app to enter your current km's and have calculate and claim.

Good news, I assume all other NL companies will have a similar facility.

I JUST finished ordering the Model S. Does it come with any key fobs? After the order, I was presented with the choice to add some accessories and the key fob was there. Don't I automatically get a couple of fobs?

Also, I looked at the sunshade for the glass roof and the picture didn't look like it covered the entire glass area. I THINK the older Model S glass was split into driver and passenger sections and I don't remember there being a separation in the new one. Was this sunshade for the old one or is the picture just for the old one because it didn't appear to be long enough. Or did I just not take a close enough look at the roof behind me when I was test driving?

After 100,500 miles on my beloved 2019 M3, I traded in "The Tesla" today for a new MY. I'm actually writing this from the waiting room in the Tesla dealership, waiting for the registration and plates to be transferred. In the last few weeks, I have read A LOT of threads on Gemini wheel covers, but, I'm still feeling like I have not found the holy grail: covers that 1) look good, 2) don't reduce efficiency and 3) are relatively easy to remove when swapping out winters for all-season tires, and back.

On the first point, that's not really been an issue. To me, *anything* looks better than the Gemini wheel covers. I did LOVE my OEM Aero 18" wheel covers. Black and beautiful. I'm not picky about whatever cover I buy as virtually everything I have seen out there looks much better than the Geminis.

On the second point, it seems that most reduce efficiency and a few don't. Am I right about that? I drive a lot and efficiency matters to me. I don't need it to improve on the OEM covers, but I'd like to not lose anything.

Finally, I have found a few covers that seem to cover the first two bases, but then I read that they are very difficult to remove. That's no big deal for someone who never needs to remove them. But I live in Boston and I'll be removing them twice a year in the fall and the spring.

A nice-to-have is covering the whole wheel to prevent curb rash.

Can anyone recommend a cover that meets all my requirements? Cost is not an issue. I'd like to save money, but this is a long-term investment that is going on a $55,000 car. Don't need to save $100. Please help!

I’ve accepted a trade in offer for my old ICE car. Just curious the process at delivery from those that have experienced it. I’m in Brisbane. Do they do a thorough inspection and take it for a test drive with me or just check the odometer and spend little time on it.

Also, do they swap plates (non-personalised), or would I just get assigned new plates on the Y that I ordered?

I won't take credit for this but I saw it on the FB Denver Club. Looks like it's in permit status as of now. Here is the message.


"Looks like Tesla is planning a 16-stall supercharger in Castle Rock at the parking area for Office Max and Petsmart (between Khols and Walmart) at 4612 Milestone Lane. DSActivity Map hopefully the link works to the plans."

Much Needed.

Been thinking about selling my Model S LR 2023. Tried to get some offers online from different websites Car max/Carvana/Give me the VIN) Most offers range from 58 to 62k. Seem pretty low to me. What would be a fair price If I sell privately?

Ultra Red
21" Wheels
White Interior
FSD
2100 miles

Hello,
I have recently become interested in picking up a model S because I have always loved the look of the vehicle (not really crazy about other Teslas) and the prices have become affordable. For example I found a 2013 with 94K for sale for 11,500. The catch is that it has a coolant leak. Owner bought at auction and drove it for 3 months before the issues surfaced. From what I have learned up until now, it is a RWD and may very well have the Large Drive Unit coolant issue.

What follows are some questions and I hope I might get some guidance here.

If I were to pickup this model S, I have read about repairing the RDU with bearings and seals, with a parts cost around $1000. If the unit is unrepairable and I cannot find a suitable LDU, is there any possibility I could part out and limit my losses?

Also anyone know how frequently these LDUs are deemed unrepairable? I know the issue is coolant in the motor and eventually in the inverter, but it was purchased prior to the winter cold and ran well at that point (according to seller)

One feature this car has and I am willing to deal with the upkeep is the operable panoramic sunroof. From what I have learned, the AWD (non performance) model S vehicles appear to have less issues (at least with the drive units). Is it common to find a two motor model S with the sunroof?

Thanks!

When connecting my tow bar mounted bike rack, trailer mode is automatically enabled. The manual says that the caravan icon should light up orange when an 'accessory' is connected, which shows trailer mode is disabled. When I connect my rack it is always blue which means i can't engage auto pilot.

Does anyone know why this might be? I'm using a Yakima Just Click rack which has a 13 pin plug and has a fog and reversing lights. I don't know how the car could determine the difference between a trailer and a bike rack?

Okay so hear me out. We have both as you can see in my signature. Build quality is alright with the MYLR given creaks and rattles but some Post Malone helps drown that out...

But I take my wife's '21 MYLR into work from time to time and I mean it feels so much faster, agile and fun to drive than my '23 MYP. Does the bigger wheels really make that much of a difference or is this something I should look into? I mean it's night and day feeling...

So I'm not the only one that uses the car and often phone as key lags or doesn't seem to work until I pull out my phone and open the app and manually open it. I know there is a wallet credit card one but I'd rather put something on my key ring that isn't the shape of a car with a rubber band holding it to the ring to where it gets lost lol.

I just want like a basic little square remote that has lock unlock and trunk\hatch.