I'm looking to get an interim car with SC01 FUSC (Free Unlimited Supoercharging) and Tesla warned me even if Tesla re-introduces FUSC transfers, I might not be able to transfer to a new MS as she thought it only applied to the original owner. This doesn't sound right, just thought I'd check with you guys...

Thanks!

When I have sentry mode enabled in the car and there is an event, should I receive a notification notice on the phone?

Version 11.1 2024.3.25, I think is the software version.

Hi all,

Like some of you, my M3 has been noisy since the get-go. I've brought it to the service center numerous times in an attempt to work through the different squeaks, clunks, and rattles. I have most of them taken care of except for a few that are infrequent and not very noticeable during normal driving conditions. However, there's been one rattle in an ambiguous location that has been a thorn in my ass since the day I took delivery and has only gotten worse. The rattle sounds like plastic-on-plastic or perhaps a loose wiring harness or bolt. It's a sharp, irregular ticking sound that seems to come from the passenger side near the wheel well, but I'm not entirely sure. As a matter of fact, I've found a YouTube video with the sound I'm talking about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7zs0aFdMA0. What I find odd is that it only occurs at highway speeds. It doesn't matter what temperature it is, what the driving surface is like, or if it's raining or snowing. It always occurs above 50 MPH and is the same intensity no matter what. Bearing all of this in mind I'm pretty convinced it has to do with high speed air buffeting/vibrating something; either there is something in the HVAC system bouncing around (like a tree seed or pebble), or there's a piece of plastic bouncing off of some metal piece.

What I've done so far:

• I removed every item from the glovebox and center consoles.
• I've inspected the fender liner on the passenger side, which wasn't properly installed (snapped the tab back under the opposite side). I notice that it does seem to make a rattle noise if I tap it or move it around a little bit. However, I'm not sure how to remove the liner to add some foam underneath so it doesn't contact the metal so much.
• I took off the maintenance cover of the cabin air intake and cleaned it out (no debris). I inspected the clips and everything appeared to be in order.
• I inspected the frunk clips (not very much play I doubt this is what's making the noise), and made sure everything was tight and firmly in place. I've also removed every loose item from the frunk and placed it in my trunk or in my home.

At this point I think it's the fender liner or the HVAC system - I would take it to the service center again but the people at my location tend to take one step forward then two steps back every time I bring it in. Does anyone have any ideas or advice? Have any of you successfully dealt with this before?

Bought a used 2020 Model X from Tesla a few months ago with 29K miles, love it. Tried to format an USB to try Sentry mode and it says to remove Guest mode to allow it. how do I get rid of guest mode. Read something about maybe the car was a retail. Also I can't name the car. Anything I can do without taking it into Tesla service. Thanks

Anyone have this same issue and/or know how to fix ? When I charge my car, actual kwh used for previous charge show up on the wall charger page.. (actual on car page are not accurate & diminish each day as I lose percentage). So problem/issue is.. the wall charger page occasionally fails to add charge session.. about once a month. Pretty aure I still have to pay electric co. for those 23kw and just trying to keep track of how much of my electric bill is for the car. Hard to be accurate if 10% of the charges are missing.

Anyone know how to get around this issue where I can't use my Google Voice phone (directly) to make or receive calls in the car using my Premium Connectivity ?

My independent garage thinks I need special Tesla pads to jack up my model 3 to rotate the tyres. They are also worried about confusing the tyre sensors if they do. Anybody know the answers?

Has anyone that is on Intel MCU hardware (I have a 2020 Model 3) recieved 2024.14.x update as yet?

I'm wondering if the update is not being deployed to older cars. I have been really looking forward to Audible and speed camera audible alerts.

I'm also curious if the auto trunk open feature is enabled on older cars. My trunk is not electric opening but I do have the springs to auto open it when latch is released.

Hello, I just purchased my 2022 Tesla Model 3, LR, AWD a couple of weeks ago. I am having connection issues I believe with the computer in the car.
The version I have downloaded to the Tesla, is V11.1, I am using an iPhone 14 Pro Max, iOS 17.5.

My wife and I both drive the vehicle, however, it doesn’t matter who unlocks and enters the driver’s seat, it doesn’t recognize the driver, and seat settings remain set to whoever drove the car last. I am also having to repair the Bluetooth / phone, every time I enter the car, it doesn’t automatically pair with the phone, I do have my phone as the main default to connect to the car. I am not really sure that this is supposed to be the case or not, but from what I have been reading in the forum’s, it is supposed to know who is driving and pair to our phones automatically.

Can anyone tell me if they have been having the same issues, or how I could fix this issue? my car has 90,000 on it, so it no longer has a warranty.

Thank you for your time

I’m new to Tesla is it OK to charge it every night and top it off or should I let it run down then charge it back up to 80%? Also what is the cost to install a wall charger?

I noticed I have a weird bird chirping noise kind of deal going on. I don’t hear it with the windows closed, when I roll down the driver side window I hear it fairly well. It sounds EXACTLY like this video here that I linked. Any clues on what this could be and how I could fix this? I really don’t wanna spend hundreds to take it SC to have them diagnose it and fix it. Or maybe not even find the issue. Thought I’d check here first! Thanks in advance!

Login to view embedded media

Hello,

So, my 21 M3 SR+ NCA battery failed at ~24K. I only drove it about 9K miles myself as I got it earlier this year with only 15K. Anyhow, I was lucky to be near a Tesla service center when this happened a couple of weeks ago. I signed the waiver and have the newer LFP battery with new suspension to compensate for the increase in weight. I have had my car back for about a week now and a couple of days ago I was supercharging and at 99% it says "calibrating" for over 10 minutes but I had to leave by that point and I am wondering how much longer I would have had to wait there if I just let it run? Also, what are the repercussions if any? I'm guessing that the BMS will not be as accurate in calculating potential range but besides that if I am correct on that, what else may there be to worry about here? I am guessing some of you have already dealt with this and this may be helpful to others who may be starting to go through this and would like to share what you think best practice(s) are or may be with this. In advance I thank you for your help on this and I'm new here with this being my first post. Please coach me if I am doing anything out of the standard etiquette expected here.

Thank you,

Justin

'23 MYP 5k miles.

I have an appointment for a week from now but was wondering if anyone knows what possible oil could leak from the rear center of the car. In the pics it looks reddish but on a white napkin it looks more greenish.

I have only used a supercharger once so far and I'm not sure I was doing the right thing. At home, I use the wall connector. I have it set up on a 60 amp breaker and set the car setting for 48 amp.

Do I need to change that setting when using a supercharger? And if so, what should I change it to? Or does that setting only apply when use the wall connector?

When I am driving and stop at a light, I see the speed go down to 0 and then it switches to "Hold". But, when stopping at the same light during FSD, I see the speed go down to 0 and then it does NOT go into "Hold" mode. Is the car actually in "Hold" mode and it is just not showing it? If it is not in "Hold" mode and FSD stops at a light and I'm on a hill, is the car going to start moving down hill on its own?

Hey y’all, got dragged a bit by a semi and wanted to see if my ‘23 Model 3 would be totaled out, looks like the A pillar got damaged a bit and the door wouldn’t open.

Pls lmk what y’all think!

I got an email as well as a message in the app that my FSD free trial has ended... but I'm still able to use it.

I *do* have a software update waiting for installation. Must I install it for the free trial to end?

I just received an external RFID for my community complex auto gate entry. The provided told me to mount it on the left headlight externally, but said it might not work as some Tesla owners are having challenges. The reader is between 1' and 3' from the ground.

I notice the other day that I have some paint ‘flaking/pealing’ off next to the plastic part next to the tire. Has anyone had this happen? If so, did you go to Tesla to get it fixed?

2023 MY, Red, 19” tires.

Hello, I’ve ordered my new MY Tesla, just awaiting the delivery date.

However Tesla have said that my MY has a cracked screen incurred during shipping, which they are replacing now.

Question is, should I continue and accept this new Tesla, with windscreen getting fixed OR get a perfect one with no issues instead from the factory?

Thanks guys

I am having trouble registering my car in the state of Arkansas because the registration packet is missing the title. Has anyone faced this problem? Any pointers on how to solve this problem? I have been in multiple calls with sales and service teams and they don’t seem to have a clue about this.

I recently had my car fixed by an autobody shop as there was a scratch on the back left of the car that needed to be fixed. The first drive after getting it fixed I got a warning saying gearbox fluid service recommended. Now a couple days later the car has capped the max speed to 84km/hr due to this warning.

I am waiting for my appointment with a service center but I am wondering if its possible the auto body shop broke something. I doubt its a coincidence this happened the first drive after they fixed it. I don't know anything about cars so am just curious as if its possible the auto body shop damaged the gearbox in the process of fixing the scratch.

Thanks for any input

We have a new garage door with a Liftmaster PL750EV opener. We couldnt get the Homelink in the car to "talk" to the opener because of incompatibility, so we were supplied a Homelink universal receiver, the PR433-4.
We can get the remote to be recognised in the first step connecting to the car but still cant figure out how to get this to connect.
Has anyone else successfully managed to do this, if so could we get some detailed help on the steps?

My 2013 Model S 85, purchase used about 3 years ago at 45,000 miles, now with 102,755, with no issues over the nearly 60,000 miles I have put on it, suddenly will not turn on. The 12V was replaced in summer of 2021 by Tesla mobile (car gave me the appropriate warning that it needed to be replaced soon), and is now the only thing that seems to work correctly - neither the center console nor the instrument cluster turns on when the door opens, but the lights all function, turn signals work, and when I press the brake, i hear a familiar humming that I always assume is the main computer booting up, but no displays come on, and I cannot shift out of park. I had used the car like normal the day before, parked in my driveway and plugged in to charge as usual. I received the normal alert at night telling me charging was complete, but when tried to use the car the next day, it was unresponsive.
Tesla service has been no help - either mobile service does not exist anymore, or because my HV battery is now out of warranty, mobile service is not an option for me. I was told to speak to the service center (by a reputable non-Tesla EV repair shop), as they could remotely review the logs and determine if the battery pack had an issue or not leading up to this, but after multiple attempts to reach someone, I was finally told that they COULD do that, but would not do it until I figured out how to get the vehicle to them.
Are there any DIY options for troubleshooting before I have it hauled there, that might give me an idea of what I am dealing with? if it is the main CPU, for instance, I believe that could be replaced by my non-Tesla EV shop that will procure and install used parts for much less, but they are 50 miles away, so its not worth hauling there if it is something more serious and I have a truly dead vehicle on my hands. If it is the HV battery, and I am looking at full replacement out of warranty, I have to consider other options, and do not want to have paid to haul it 50 miles away, only to have to haul it somewhere else again.

I was charging at work when severe weather hit. I heard thunder, then soon after got notification my 2018 M3LR had unexpectedly stopped charging. I tried the other two L2 chargers available, neither worked. I also tried my Mobile charger, it didn't work. All the letters in TELSA were green on the Mobile charger. I finally tried a charge point, same issue. The screen says "Charging equipment communication error" in every instance.

My best guess is the Charge Port Controller ECU was damaged. I saw one other thread where someone had the same issue but didn't post a resolution, other than Tesla fixed it. Can anyone confirm this is the part I need?