It sits very high up, as if you gently lowered the frunk down to where the latch was resting on the sensor arm. That registers as fully open so it does not try to re-close the frunk. Good point on the rotation, that'll be the first adjustment I try.
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Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk
- Thread starter ngng
- Start date
It sits very high up, as if you gently lowered the frunk down to where the latch was resting on the sensor arm. That registers as fully open so it does not try to re-close the frunk. Good point on the rotation, that'll be the first adjustment I try.
I’m not sure because I tested it only after installation & there was only enough play in the cable to move slightly.
I just had a look at the Tlyard version and the mechanism of sucking the frunk hood closed is similar to my Satonic V2, except that the Tlyard version is a single piece design. I tried lowering my Satonic V2 to correct for the problem of the sensor possibly being too high, but this increased the tension in its motor cable and prevented the latch from fully opening.
I've found that the white plastic limiter helps anchor the soft close bracket and the OEM latch bracket. It acts like a pivot point and allows for some up/down movement of the passenger-side bolt hole of the soft close bracket. The angle of the trigger bar on the soft close bracket can be changed up or downwards this way. I have the trigger bar set so that when the hood striker comes to rest on it, the soft close cycle is activated. In this position, the auto-relatch feature has worked every time so far. Like @johnnyruz I haven't installed the metal patch. Also, I installed several layers of heat shrink on the trigger bar which may help in the striker/trigger bar interaction.
I bought this on the assumption it would close from the full open position and like the simpler design (less parts to install) and cheaper price.
Now that I've seen videos of it, I'm wondering if I should have purchased the full-version instead.
FWIW, my delivery is next week so have not installed it yet.
Now that I've seen videos of it, I'm wondering if I should have purchased the full-version instead.
FWIW, my delivery is next week so have not installed it yet.
On the Tylard version, is there any solution to not accidentally crushing your fingers. I tried to simulate this scenario by sticking a screwdriver into some foam and it did pop back up a bit. But I am pretty sure it will do some damage to a real finger
Will lowering the latch position help, as there will be less gap for the finger to go in? Foolishly, I tested it without the frunk plastic cover on and then adjusted the latch higher so that the hood wouldn’t sink in
Will lowering the latch position help, as there will be less gap for the finger to go in? Foolishly, I tested it without the frunk plastic cover on and then adjusted the latch higher so that the hood wouldn’t sink in
I'm curious, did you ever determine whether the motor failed or was it just the cable and control box problem? What has been Satonic's response?
I was only able to partially disassemble the kit before I got busy with some other stuff. Need to finish opening up the motor. They never responded and AE denied my claim of course
It would seem to me if cutting the cable released the latch, the cable wasn't the problem. (Unless it just happened to be frozen past where it was cut.)
He mentioned the fuse was blown, and given the design if the fuse blows while it is in the pulled down position cutting the cable, or replacing the fuse, is the only way to get to go back up. So then you have to figure out why the fuse blew, was it a chaffed wire? (It shouldn't be from pulling too hard, as it detects that and reverses.)
I got the Hansshow version for my 22 MY Performance. Install went great, was working perfectly for about 3 weeks. Tried to open the frunk a few days ago to get some tools and could hear the latch trying to release, but the hood wouldn't budge. I also notice the hood was sitting lower than normal resting position when closed. I right away thought the motor did not release the tension on the cable after the last soft close. Ok...no big deal..the hansshow version comes with an emergency release cable you can use routed to the tow hook area in the bumper. Well, that cable did nothing when trying to pull on it, in fact it wouldn't move at all. The Hansshow version is two pieces, so the motor that pulls the latch closed is not mounted directly behind the OEM latch. This is what actually saved me a ton of time and effort trying to get the frunk back open. It gets mounted low (according to the instructions) to a support beam, thats on the driver side. Turns out that area is pretty accessible by removing just 3 plastic push pins that hold the wheel liner. Peel back the liner a little bit and the motor is right there. I tried disconnecting the power cable first hoping it would release the cable tension, but that did nothing. Plugged back in...that did nothing. Finally did what NGNG did and cut the cable leading to the latch. Immediately the hood returned to the normal resting closed position and one tap on the app to open the frunk and it popped right open.
So I'll be trying to get my money back if I can. I loved the soft close feature, but totally not worth potentially getting locked out of your frunk. Back to the manual close for me.
So I'll be trying to get my money back if I can. I loved the soft close feature, but totally not worth potentially getting locked out of your frunk. Back to the manual close for me.
My current theory is the Satonic motor pulled the hood down and continued top pull blowing the fuse and destroying the motor. The wires had some suspect connectors, but nothing exposed. Yes, it should have detected an overload and stopped but it didn't.
I love the feature, I don't love the potential for failure. It doesn't outweigh the cons. If somebody came out with a high quality, throughly tested kit I'd buy it and install it.
Dukeybootie
Member
FWIW been using the Teslasy version almost daily since December (installed by Tony at EVFixMe). So far so good but definitely keeping my fingers crossed.
I think the issue is that due to poor Tesla design, water would pool around the frunk latch area. Sooner or later the water would get onto the latch motor assembly and only time will tell if that'll cause havoc.
zoomer0056
Active Member
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