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What's wrong with a car wash?

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HA! I went to that place that advertises that they wash cars by hand, and they use high-pressure hoses, just like the coin-operated places, and they couldn't wash my Roadster anyway because they said it was too low for their tracks!

So I guess I'll just go to a coin place and exercise caution with the pressure hose. Maybe if I wear my neoprene scuba gloves my hands won't get quite so cold.
 
Maybe if I wear my neoprene scuba gloves my hands won't get quite so cold.

Today!:

winter.jpg
 
I use warm water in a bucket, and a wash mitt, but the hose water is cold and drying the car my hands get wet and in winter I can't take it. But I'll try one of those waterless cleaners. I imagine they have that stuff at my local auto parts store. That'll be good for light dust and I'll be able to do it in the garage, protected from the wind. Apparently those are not suitable for the heavy dirt accumulations when there's snow on the road. Right now it needs a water wash. Lots of accumulation, especially on the door sills.
 
Daniel, I'm not sure why your hands are getting wet while drying your car. But if you have one or two of these, you shouldn't have that problem. You could also wear gloves while drying. Actually, you could wear a glove on your non-dominant hand while washing and gloves on both hands while drying.

Griot's spray-on car wash with the recommended thick nap microfiber towels is designed to be used with fairly heavy grime on the car. See the video on the site. If it's really think, you could also rinse off the car quickly with the hose and then pull into the garage to use the spray-on wash for the rest.
 
To answer why to not use a Car Wash is because of the water-based paint (WBP) that Tesla uses. WBP is one of the next big things in the automotive industry, the main reason is because they are Environmentally friendly compared to Acrylic paints. Most automotive companies around the world are using water based paint to reduce VOC emissions. Besides reducing VOC emissions, WBPs also reduce risk of fire, are easier to clean up (creating less hazardous residues) and result in reduced worker exposure to organic vapors.

Sounds great but WBPs have their drawbacks;

1. WBPs are softer than acrylic oil based paints. The quick forced dry process using higher curing temperatures causes the paint to dry fast, but not as hard. As a result, these paints scratch more easily.

2. WBPs also have difficulties with increased orange peel and production line runs and sags. The increased orange peel causes a reduction in overall smoothness and gloss.

3. WBPs are also more porous than conventional acrylic finishes. This accelerates a process known as drift. Drift is the process of waxes and sealants soaking into the pores of the finish. Because the finish of a painted surface looks similar to the surface of the moon, peaks and valleys etc., as sealants heat and cool, they soak into the finish. Drift occurs in every known finish, however the water borne paint allows this process to occur much more rapidly, in some cases, even as short as a two week period of time. As drift occurs, the paint is left susceptible to the outdoor elements. This leads the paint to loose gloss and be susceptible to water spots, acid rain, industrial fallout and many other forms of foreign particles.

Other manufacturers that use WB paint such as BMW, Lotus, Lamborghini and Ferrari have the same warnings about car washes and their owners really have perfected the best ways to keep a car clean. I didn't see a detailing/wash guide here, but here is one we compiled on our Lotus' forum http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f314/its-all-about-wash-wheels-wheel-wells-tutorial-37467/. In that it details the normal and rinse-less wash systems.

Here are some things not listed and some that really make a difference when dealing with WBP;

1. Do not use an automated car wash or or a sponge when washing as both create scratches. Sheep Skin mitts are highly recommended when hand washing. Micro Fiber is a close second but tend to hold some material like its Velcro-ed on (usually Plant Material)

2. When hand or machine polishing, it is recommended using a "diminishing abrasive" such as Meguiar's Body Shop Professional line to remove defects without damaging the delicate finish. Or for a more experienced tech the 3M line 3-step professional line works miracles.

3. Because water based paint is more porous than Acrylic based paint, it is essential to keep the paint "sealed" as well as waxed to prevent damage from environmental pollution. We recommend that only microfiber towels be used to remove sealant or wax as this will diminish any damage to the paint.

4. USE THE STRAIGHT LINE METHOD when Applying and Removing sealants/waxes/protectants by hand. Whatever circle motion you learned from Mr. Miyagi about waxing, throw it out the window, it only induces circular marring. Apply and remove the products in a straight line in the direction the air moves over the section. What this does is take that one little piece of debris that might fall on the car after drying and instead of creating multiple circular scratches that is visible in all light and angles it will be a straight line only visible in very limited types of light and angles. It's more of a professional technique that you only find in really informed detail shops.

Hope this helps,

-Chris
Concept:Carbon
 
I think I know some of the why, but could you elaborate? Thanks.
Not sure Nigel's reasoning but mine would be that Model S isn't a soft top and so will not leak. Also, there are some folks who feel the paint on the Roadster is weak or soft (due to it being painted onto CF I guess). I haven't tested it so I don't know. I have the paint protection film on mine so any rock chips and such are absorbed by that. But on Model S since it's metal the paint should be as hard as on any other car.
 
Daniel, I'm not sure why your hands are getting wet while drying your car. But if you have one or two of these, you shouldn't have that problem. You could also wear gloves while drying. Actually, you could wear a glove on your non-dominant hand while washing and gloves on both hands while drying.

Griot's spray-on car wash with the recommended thick nap microfiber towels is designed to be used with fairly heavy grime on the car. See the video on the site. If it's really think, you could also rinse off the car quickly with the hose and then pull into the garage to use the spray-on wash for the rest.
I use a chamois to dry the car. But there's so much water that it has to be wrung out repeatedly. That's when my hands get wet. I suppose I could buy enough micro-fiber towels that I'd just dump them in a bucket when they're wet, and wash them later. There's a LOT of water on the car after rinsing.

I watched the video on one of the sites advertising waterless spray wash. They were adamant that the stuff is not for thick, gritty dirt which can scratch the paint if you try to rub it off. And that's what gets on the car when there's snow on the road.

I was planning to go to a coin-operated car wash today, but it was snowing this morning and by early afternoon we had about three inches of snow on the roads, so I stayed home. Looks like the snow will be with us for a week. I'll hit the car wash when the snow's gone. I'll just be careful about the pressure.
 
I use warm water in a bucket, and a wash mitt, but the hose water is cold and drying the car my hands get wet and in winter I can't take it.

In my neck of the woods, the auto detailers that come to an office or home use a leaf blower to get almost all of the water off the cars they wash. Then it's really easy to terry towel the few remaining water droplets off. Really works great on the mirrors and trunk lids where water tends to "hide". I am not advocating a gas leaf blower, there are cordless as well as corded ones available; the corded are under $25.
 
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We live up by Tahoe so the car is guaranteed to get mucky whenever we drive it. We have been using some polypropylene glove liners under slightly oversized household rubber gloves to wash our cars during the winter. They keep my hands dry and warm. We have also gotten used to using microfiber washing and drying towels. We found our local Walmart carry large microfiber drying towels for about $7 each. One towel will dry almost the entire car. Then we discovered this Metro blower. It will remove about 70-80% of the surface water and really speeds the drying.
 
I think I know some of the why, but could you elaborate? Thanks.

Sorry, missed this one earlier. It's partly what *strider* said about the soft top, but I have detailed mine by hand up till now and when you do that you realize how "soft" CF panels are. The rear air vents let a lot of water flow through, but I would worry about high pressure from a car wash. Also the Roadster has lots of nooks and crannies that a car wash wouldn't get to anyway (think under/around the doors, under the spoiler, under the diffuser etc.etc.).

The Model S is metal body panels, that's different to start, and liquid cooling vs air cooling makes me feel that the drive train is more isolated from water (I don't see a risk with the Roadster, it's more psychological than anything).
 
I keep my old corded electric leaf blower around just for the drying part of the task. Gets places a towel just won't go.

I just bought a corded leaf blower for drying the Roadster and am happy with it. It is easier on me and the car. I have found that many microfiber towels will put fine scratches in paint so I am careful to only use very soft microfiber towels to dry the leftover wet spots. If I am too slow and find some spots that dried already i use a quality waterless wash with a soft microfiber towel and am pleased with results.