You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Of course. EVSE will advertise 48A, but the car will only take 32A. They negotiate based on the capabilities of both and whichever value is lower is what actually gets delivered.Electrician installed Gen 3 wall connector and puts 60A breaker.
Can i charge Tesla 3 Standard Range which is only used 7.7 kW or 32-amp?
Electrician installed Gen 3 wall connector and puts 60A breaker.
Can i charge Tesla 3 Standard Range which is only used 7.7 kW or 32-amp?
Thank you, i was worried and thought may be i need to change breaker to 40AOf course. EVSE will advertise 48A, but the car will only take 32A. They negotiate based on the capabilities of both and whichever value is lower is what actually gets delivered.
If Car takes 32A, meaning will use less electricity to charge it?Of course. EVSE will advertise 48A, but the car will only take 32A. They negotiate based on the capabilities of both and whichever value is lower is what actually gets delivered.
YesIf Car takes 32A, meaning will use less electricity to charge it?
Depends what you call electricity. It will use less current (32 Amps instead of 48 Amps) but that also means you have to charge longer. The amount of energy you put into the battery is the same, so charging slower isn't going to save you any money if that was your question.If Car takes 32A, meaning will use less electricity to charge it?
Power (watts) will be lower, energy (kWh) will be about the same. But you'll need to charge longer to get the same amount of energy into the battery as someone with a 48A OBC. Power = (Energy / Time).If Car takes 32A, meaning will use less electricity to charge it?
I had interpreted the question as "is that extra 16 amps going to be thrown away, tremendously increasing my recharge cost with no benefit".Depends what you call electricity. It will use less current (32 Amps instead of 48 Amps) but that also means you have to charge longer. The amount of energy you put into the battery is the same, so charging slower isn't going to save you any money if that was your question.
Indeed.. I did say “up to” didn’t I? ;-) But yes, since most residential breakers have 75c rated terminals, you’d be limited to the 75c column, so 65A in this case for #6. But you still get to derate from the 90c column (75A), eg for thermals!This is misleading because the termination points have to be considered. You can probably read from the 75C column of Table 310.16 in the NEC.
The risks here are two-fold: 1, that the breaker trips one too many times and then does not work as intended. Or 2, that the breaker does not trip and the conductors over-heat at the termination points.
Obviously an electrician familiar with the actual install should evaluate and do the calcs, but real world #6 THWN-2 in conduit is sufficient for a 48A code compliant install 99% of the time.Is the #6 AWG THWN2 enough for 48 Amp draw ? It depends on corrections and adjustments, like maximum ambient temperature. E.g. the 75 max Amps of TWHN2 can be derated 20% and still carry the 48 Amp EV load. An ambient max temp over 122F would require a larger size conductor.
Your #6 Wiring is actually rated for 65 amps as we cannot use the 90 degree rating unless the equipment is specifically rated for 90 degree terminations, which is very rare. Anyway.. that wiring could be terminated on a 60 amp breaker which would allow 48 amps of continuous current to flow through before tripping.I read several threads where people were asking about connecting their Tesla Wall Chargers onto an existing 50 amp circuits in their electrical panel. I believe most of these were talking about utilizing existing 14-50 electrical dryer circuits for their Wall Chargers installs.
I was watching a recent Sandy Munro video where he was talking about (warning about) people who connect using the wiring and breaker to this circuit (48 amps wall charger) Warning that these residential circuits are not meant for a continuous 50 amp load and are intended for partial duty loads as you would see with an electric dryer, which is not going to run continually at full load for hours and hours on end perhaps every single day. He showed samples of melted connectors, torched wiring from people who had installed their wall chargers this way and were charging every day etc... He talked about how you need to have 60amp circuit for a Wall Charger and use good components meant for continuous duty.
I just had a dedicated circuit installed for my Model 3 Performance by an electrician (before I saw the Munro video), and I remember the installer saying that the 50 amp circuit they were installing was more than fine for my charger. Especially since he used a double 50amp breaker that I supplied that he said worked fine in my Eaton electrical panel. He actually said it was overkill. It is a Siemens unit and cost me over $100 (I just asked the guy at the counter (what's the best one you have?)
But I was worried because Mr Munro said the circuit is supposed to be designed for a certain percentage in AMPS above what you're sending thru it. I can't remember what that percentage was.
Worried, I looked at my invoice for the work that was done, and the wiring length is 23' of "#6 THWN-2 in flex metal conduit" and with my 50amp Siemens breaker and Tesla Wall Charger listed as customer provided.
My understanding is that the Wall Charger pulls 48amps max. Is the fact I have a "only" 50 amp breaker installed bad? Doesn't that mean that it will trip at 50+ rather than 60+ if I had that sized breaker installed? I looked up THWN-2 #6 wire and it said it is rated for 190 C and 75amps so am I good to go the way I have it set up? Or is there something I'm not considering (not an electrician here)
Thanks in Advance!
Your #6 Wiring is actually rated for 65 amps
I know some electricians here disagree - I had a 30 amp circuit with #6 and my electrician said it needed #4 for sustained 40amp current - he was returning a favor so he wasn't charging me for the job - so he wasn't trying to upcharge me for bigger wire -50 amp needs #4 wire - not #6. . . .
I think I see a possibility. Ampacity tables are pretty straightforward for the general case.I know some electricians here disagree - I had a 30 amp circuit with #6 and my electrician said it needed #4 for sustained 40amp current - he was returning a favor so he wasn't charging me for the job - so he wasn't trying to upcharge me for bigger wire -
I think we are at a point now in 2024 when the code authorities, when using NEC2023, will ALSO need to see a nameplate which agrees with the derated breaker (50A in this case derated to 40A). Currently Tesla ship the WC with a 48A nameplate sticker so even if you commission the unit down to 40A it will still fail inspection. Some EVSE makers have begun shipping one nameplate sticker for each of their 'commisioning levels' so the installer can get the breaker and label to agree. I believe the logic here is that when you sell the house, and the EVSE is a fixture and fitting, the the next owner (more likely their home inspector) can see that the WC is derated to 40A and NOT safe to turn up to 48A in a re-commisioning.If you have a 50 amp breaker installed, your wall connector should be commissioned for a 50 amp breaker and your car should charge at a maximum of 40 amps (80% of 50).
If your car can charge at a full 48 amps on a 50 amp breaker, your setup is misconfigured.
I think we are at a point