Tein EnduraPro Plus adjustable shock absorbers fitted

[Jhom]

Tein specifically says to use the OEM bump stops unmodified because they have the same travel distance as OEM struts. The smaller 2/3 segments are extremely soft and you can compress them with your fingers, they are there to create a smooth transition to the harder segment that actually stops your strut from damage. In conclusion: you should use the full OEM bumps stop, there is no need to cut it. If you do cut, it will just cause a harsher slam when you bottom out. Despite my own advice, I went ahead and cut off the smaller 2/3 and kept only the top widest portion which is needed to pressure mount the top of the boot to the top hat. I did this because most people recommended cutting it despite having done zero research or reaching out to the manufacturer for clarification. This is a classic case of bro-science or an old wive’s tale. If I had to do it again, I’d leave the bump stops uncut. There was also confusion about Hydraulic Bump Stoppers in the Endurapro, but despite having HBS, Tein specifically says to use the original bump rubbers unless Tein provided you with new ones.View attachment 980032

Exactly! That's why I had my Endurapro Plus installed with the bumpstops unmodified as recommended by Tein.

 

[Occhis]

Following the instructions of the equipment manufacturer is usually a good move.

 

[tonysaur]

I asked Tein if I should use the rubber grommets above the rear top hats since I obviously can’t use them in the front because of the much longer piston sticking out: That is up to you, if you are planning to adjust the dampening quite often it may get in the way. It could also help protect water and debris from staying in that top hat cup where the adjustment is for the dampening.

As an update on my setting preference: with my 2023 MYLR comfort springs 14f/16r was too floaty feeling. 10f/12r feels great, doesn’t feel any more floaty than the OEM dampers.

 

[ajmorr.is]

Following the instructions of the equipment manufacturer is usually a good move.

If only the manufacturer gave vehicle-specific instructions rather than some generic images or technical descriptions.…
If one of the desires when changing shock absorbers is to gain better travel and the replacement shock absorber has an in-built system to either reduce or totally negate ‘riding the bump stops’ then in reality they aren’t needed. However, nobody who has carried out this shock absorber change has said that they have totally removed the original bump stops, so some protection is still in place anyway.

 

[Whitmarsh]

FYI, the Tesla Service Manual is available online at service.tesla.com. Torque specs and everything else you might need for repair is readily available. It includes step by step videos of the repairs.

Thanks, that's helpful.

 

[Whitmarsh]

That's odd. I use my Tesla account and password. Did you try creating a new account?

Yes, I did the same and could see both pages (having got through several iterations of Captcha pics!). But there is nothing much there more than is in your post.

 

[Jhom]

Yes, I did the same and could see both pages (having got through several iterations of Captcha pics!). But there is nothing much there more than is in your post.

I just tried the link and also the links I posted earlier. They all work for me. amorr.is indicated he had problems accessing the links. I believe he is in the UK like you. Maybe the site is only available to the US.

 

[Whitmarsh]

There is in fact more, on this page:

Alignment Requirement - Suspension​

which says that alignment is not required at either end.

 

[tonysaur]

I just tried the link and also the links I posted earlier. They all work for me. amorr.is indicated he had problems accessing the links. I believe he is in the UK like you. Maybe the site is only available to the US.

None of the links work for me and I’m in the US. I can’t seem to access the repair info at all using my Tesla account. Could you give me more info on where the front upper control arm is supposed to be positioned? I just Willy Nillied it and tightened the arm where it lies after connecting all other parts including swaybar, strut, and ball bearing attached to the upper control bar. I couldn’t fit my torque wrench and socket into the space, so I had to guesstimate the torque too. Been driving around for a week and alignment seems fine, but I have this uneasy feeling in my mind that improper placement of that arm will cause uneven tire wear or the rubber grommet to fail sooner than usual. In retrospect, I probably shouldn’t have loosened the arm in the first place, I probably could have taken the shock out as-is, but I was following a YouTube video soooo meh.

 

[tonysaur]

I’ve logged in with my Tesla account and all I get (briefly) is this page which then redirects to the Service home page.
View attachment 979866


Trying to access any of the service manuals directly then does the same thing. There’s an option to subscribe for a number of days or hours but this is for diagnostic software as well.

Same with me on my iPhone, then I tried Google Chrome on my Windows PC with the same result. Then I tried Firefox on the same PC and was able to access it. For a tech company this is piss poor website management.

 

[tonysaur]

So after accessing the maintenance page using the only compatible browser(firefox) I was able to find the proper install location. You use this special ride height tool, or just measure 60 mm from this mid point in the arm. I can only hope that I haven't warped the rubber too much having it in the wrong position for a week.

 

[ajmorr.is]

So after accessing the maintenance page using the only compatible browser(firefox) I was able to find the proper install location. You use this special ride height tool, or just measure 60 mm from this mid point in the arm. I can only hope that I haven't warped the rubber too much having it in the wrong position for a week.

I'm still not sure why you needed to loosen those bolts. I didn't and the struts came out fine with a bit of angle.

 

[tonysaur]

I'm still not sure why you needed to loosen those bolts. I didn't and the struts came out fine with a bit of angle.

I was following a YouTube video that told me to do it.lesson learned, don’t bother loosening this bolts.

 

[Robbertos]

Hi Guys,

I have mounted the Tein dampers with Eibach springs. Only since today (after 3 weeks) I hear a creaking sound when I turn completely to the left and drive over a bump. It is only when steering to the left and when turning in fully and driving slowly. Do you guys have any idea what this could be? The car is 2 months old. Thank you very much in advance!

Best Regards,

Robbert from the Netherlands

 

[Occhis]

Could be the spring binding on the spring perch. Maybe try spraying some WD40 on the perch?
Check proper torque on the suspension fasteners.
Did you torque the lower control arm to damper bolt at ride-height?

 

[Shwnzho]

I had these installed, set 8 in front and 12 in rear, when going highway speed its really wobble on dips. whole car would wobble right and left couple times. anyone know what might be the issue?

 

[Shwnzho]

Got Tein EnduraPro Plus installed with stock springs for $300, kept stock bump stops without cutting.

Don’t feel much difference from stock shocks since I set as 6/8 because if set higher then 8 in front or back it will be unstable on highway speeds if there are any dips or bumps the car will wobble like crazy feel like loose control.

Recommend 6/8 for highway and if you just stay in city can set higher.

Rear is a pain to adjust once it’s on the car but it is possible to adjust without taking off the wheel. You will need to peel back the wheel cover with one hand and stick other hand into the gap.

 

[srican]

Got Tein EnduraPro Plus installed with stock springs for $300, kept stock bump stops without cutting.

Don’t feel much difference from stock shocks since I set as 6/8 because if set higher then 8 in front or back it will be unstable on highway speeds if there are any dips or bumps the car will wobble like crazy feel like loose control.

Recommend 6/8 for highway and if you just stay in city can set higher.

Rear is a pain to adjust once it’s on the car but it is possible to adjust without taking off the wheel. You will need to peel back the wheel cover with one hand and stick other hand into the gap.

Hi. I am looking to adjust the rear setting on the Tein Endura Plus on MYLR. Do you have a pic of how this can be done without jacking it up. Thanks

 

[Jhom]

The rear Tein settings can't be adjusted without jacking up the car.

 

[Ray4sports]

This is all great info on the Tein's and looking forward to getting these installed on my 23 MYLR. Any recommendations on mechanics or shops to install in San Diego? Thanks!