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Salvage Car Owners Support Group.

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No, unfortunately it is not something easy to do. Though, once you have access it's easy to change parts in the car, including battery packs. All it takes is a change to the car's options and a firmware reflash.

So it sounds like the best bet for someone would be to fly you out once they have their FrankenTesla put together to get it up and running before taking it in for a recert exam... :wink:
 
In the case of Btr_ftw's situation, what is that chance that he can replace all of the salt water damaged electronics and get a working car without the recert and getting Tesla to reflash everything to the same/compatible versions? (Can you really make a FrankenTesla without Tesla?)

Also, isn't there another ~$500 charge for a body shop to do the tear down and take the photos for Tesla? (So a total of ~$2,000 for a recert.)

The odds are in BTR_ftw's favor.

Plus I doubt there is a need to take photos of a car that was never in an accident

The Tesla-certified body shop charges $1,500, and then the SC charges from $300-$1,500, depending on whether any work needs to be done. Remember, there is no warranty.

And you don't want to own a car unless it can get OTA updates and use the Superchargers.


you don't think people will want a Tesla if they can't supercharge it or get OTA updates?

What about the early adopters who's 3G will be expiring eventually and didn't pay extra for supercharging? Should they repent now for the end is near?
 
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I just got a salvage 2016 70d I put it in tow mode and energy saving mode.
After that the center screen went dark. And I cannot figure out how to get it back on. Tried fuse reset tried the scroll buttons reset not sure what to do.
the car is stuck in neutral I tried to engage park I can hear it engage but as soon as I release the button it disengages.
Any thoughts
 
I just got a salvage 2016 70d I put it in tow mode and energy saving mode.
After that the center screen went dark. And I cannot figure out how to get it back on. Tried fuse reset tried the scroll buttons reset not sure what to do.
the car is stuck in neutral I tried to engage park I can hear it engage but as soon as I release the button it disengages.
Any thoughts

Hello! Most likely it went dark because the 12V battery ran out of juice. If salvage, depending on condition of the car the high voltage battery is probably isolated (contactors open) so the DCDC converter cannot charge the 12V battery. Connect 12V charger to the 12V posts under the nose cone (or at the 12V battery) This will get the systems up again. Without charging the 12V cannot support the load for very long (only minutes)
 
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I had a good battery in it with a battery charger on it and I also jumped the Pyro fuse and then took the battery off and everything was stil on (minus the touchscreen)
The screen turned off after i put it in power saving mode and tow mode
The car was in a front and rear end collision I purchased it for the battery which is undamaged. I would like to be able to get it working before I pull the battery so I know what parts work
 
This was before it blanked out
I added coolant and fixed the leak so that is fixed

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I can assist anyone with a salvage or out-of-warranty car. I can help you pull diagnostics, and figure out what's wrong with your car. If any features are not working, I can help you determine why and get them going again. Most of this can be done remotely, regardless of where you are as long as you have reliable internet access. PM me for details.
 
I pulled the battery out and am going to part out the car.

The battery pack is for the offgrid house that I am building.
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I jumped the little connector for the pro fuse and most errors went away
Still can't get the screen on
 

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Opened up the car today and the MCU came on said something about an update I postponed it as it said an hour to install started looking through the screens and then it turned off.
Seems like the update woke it up I will try again on Monday and will attempt to turn off the energy saving mode.
 
The update will fail, do not bother to try. It fails if any modules are offline or there are any major faults. I suspect your CID is staying off because of low 12v. Has nothing to do with energy saving. If the voltage drops below 12v it will stay dark in an attempt to preserve the 12v battery as long as possible. Obviously with the pack removed, it cannot charge the 12v battery any longer.

If you provide an external source of 12v good for at least 15A, it will probably work again.
 
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Well, they will transfer it in 3-4 days if you provide them with the right evidence, but if it's blacklisted, they will not.

For salvage/blacklisted cars, I have an alternate app that provides all the features of Tesla's, and many extra, such as access to all data variables on your car. If your 3G SIM card has been cut off, you will of course have to provide your own cellular data plan, but on many cars this still works.
 
Well, they will transfer it in 3-4 days if you provide them with the right evidence, but if it's blacklisted, they will not.

For salvage/blacklisted cars, I have an alternate app that provides all the features of Tesla's, and many extra, such as access to all data variables on your car. If your 3G SIM card has been cut off, you will of course have to provide your own cellular data plan, but on many cars this still works.

This is not true. They will transfer salvage titles, it just takes a LOT longer.
 
Well, they will transfer it in 3-4 days if you provide them with the right evidence, but if it's blacklisted, they will not.

For salvage/blacklisted cars, I have an alternate app that provides all the features of Tesla's, and many extra, such as access to all data variables on your car. If your 3G SIM card has been cut off, you will of course have to provide your own cellular data plan, but on many cars this still works.

Anyway you can make this app a little "sexier"?

:)