green1
Active Member
More than 90% of non P Model S cars listed for sale seem to state Performance, I don't know why, but I really wish it would stop.
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Nope. I've been told by a reputable source(*) that there is a pyrotechnic fuse in the battery which gets blown if the airbags go off. This part is apparently *NOT* easy to source or replace.
(*) A retired engineer with 2 Rav 4s, a T-Zero, a Sig S and a Sig X. (He's been an EV advocate since the EV1...)
(*) A retired engineer with 2 Rav 4s, a T-Zero, a Sig S and a Sig X. (He's been an EV advocate since the EV1...)
green1
Active Member
AMPUP
Member
There is one on ebay (assuming its the right one) Tesla 1004635 A Pyro Fuse Battery Overload Protection Trip Autoliv PSS 1 | eBay
AMPUP
Member
Sounds like you are probably the best bet. The things you are doing are groundbreaking to folks on the forum.
Btw I'm looking for the rear liftgate gas automatic support struts and the wiring harness from the passenger side strut, any advice on where to source these parts?
Those are almost certainly standard purchased parts. Do they have any part numbers or other identifications on them?
They are also dirt cheap OEM parts, so you can afford to take a guess and then see if it works. Google "Monroe Mounting and Length Specifications" You'll get a PDF with all their shocks and struts.
Go to the last page and match up the ends on the rod & body to the diagrams. That will give you the "end codes" Then you want to measure the compressed and extended length of the *mounted* strut in your car. The unmounted part doesn't have to match. As long as the part's compressed length is lower than the applications *and the parts extended length is greater than required by the application. There is a decent chance it will work. There might me more than one match, based on differences in load capacity.
Try them and see. If none of the Monroe parts work, look for a comparable part on a similar vintage mainstream car (Toyota, BMW, Ford, etc) at a place like Rock Auto. The goal is just to get the names of the OEMs. Then you can search the OEM's websites for tech specs or engineering catalogs you can use to try to match up the part.
I'd be more careful 'winging it' like that with critical suspension or brake parts, but a lift-gate strut is hardly a critical application.
If you find a match, please post it.
They are also dirt cheap OEM parts, so you can afford to take a guess and then see if it works. Google "Monroe Mounting and Length Specifications" You'll get a PDF with all their shocks and struts.
Go to the last page and match up the ends on the rod & body to the diagrams. That will give you the "end codes" Then you want to measure the compressed and extended length of the *mounted* strut in your car. The unmounted part doesn't have to match. As long as the part's compressed length is lower than the applications *and the parts extended length is greater than required by the application. There is a decent chance it will work. There might me more than one match, based on differences in load capacity.
Try them and see. If none of the Monroe parts work, look for a comparable part on a similar vintage mainstream car (Toyota, BMW, Ford, etc) at a place like Rock Auto. The goal is just to get the names of the OEMs. Then you can search the OEM's websites for tech specs or engineering catalogs you can use to try to match up the part.
I'd be more careful 'winging it' like that with critical suspension or brake parts, but a lift-gate strut is hardly a critical application.
If you find a match, please post it.
That needs a looooooot of work. From what I've seen people getting quoted for repair work after accidents, I'm not sure that's worth it when you can get clean titled S85s for around $40-50k.
From what I see, it'll need a front bumper, nose cone, driver fender, driver side quarter panel, 4 airbags (front driver, front passenger, driver/passenger seat airbags), windshield, pano roof, and all sorts of body work on the pillars.
It might be worth it for the parts (and battery if it's intact), but to buy that and test everything might be more trouble than it's worth.
oh 100% parts only. no way will it be worth it to drive that thing again. if you look carefully you can see they tried to make it look "pretty" by putting doors back on the drivers side, the door mounts and sills were completely smashed and they did a quick repair so the doors can sit properly for photos.
In the case of Btr_ftw's situation, what is that chance that he can replace all of the salt water damaged electronics and get a working car without the recert and getting Tesla to reflash everything to the same/compatible versions? (Can you really make a FrankenTesla without Tesla?)
Also, isn't there another ~$500 charge for a body shop to do the tear down and take the photos for Tesla? (So a total of ~$2,000 for a recert.)
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If you run into that problem just give me the car. In Oregon no State Patrol inspection is needed, all you need is to get a "VIN inspection" from the DMV. (All they do is check that the VIN under the windshield matches what is on the door and the paperwork and you are good to go.)
The Tesla-certified body shop charges $1,500, and then the SC charges from $300-$1,500, depending on whether any work needs to be done. Remember, there is no warranty.
And you don't want to own a car unless it can get OTA updates and use the Superchargers.
Does it involve anything that us normal garage tinkerers wouldn't be able to do?
Tesla says that you can't even put a different battery pack of the same size in a vehicle without it being reprogrammed, that seems to be a big problem...
