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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

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For those that ordered a 1537264-00-B from your local SC, how long did it take? Someone said 1 day. Just wanted to find out what others are experiencing. I ordered mine Monday (4-18) and they said they would give me a call when they got in it. I'll give them a call Monday. I'm just getting impatient as my CCS adapter from Harumio is supposed to be delivered 4-27. Ordered that 4-19 and Harmunio shipped it via DHL yesterday (4-22). How is it that I can get a CCS adapter from half way across the world through a middleman quicker than Tesla can get me an ECU? Haha
 
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Sigh, just to add to the chorus: no, the EVhub/Ukranian adapter is absolutely and definitively not 3D printed (I had hoped this would be a well-established thing by now). It's CNC machined. CNC machines also grind down in layers, thus lines. They also have tools that produce scratches, thus circles and lines. A telltale sign of CNC machining is circular swirls - something 3D printers don't do, but CNC machines use spinning tools (thus circles).


That said, 3D printing also isn't inherently meltable. That's a factor of 3D printing using PLA - a biodegradable plastic commonly used in 3D printing because it's cheap and relatively forgiving. So yeah, if a part is printed out of PLA, it'll be susceptible to melting/deforming in heat. If it's printed in ABS, it's printed with the same plastic used on most other manufactured plastic goods - but printed ABS tends to crack at layer lines due to stress. There's also SLA printing that doesn't even utilize thermoplastics, but instead UV light-curing resin or other materials. Finally, there's also powder-based 3D printing that "prints glue on layers of sand" to produce objects.


Personally, I'm an over-the-moon fan of Markforged, a printer I use at work. That thing prints dimensionally-perfect every time, in a high-temperature carbon-fiber/nylon filament with optional continuous carbon-fiber reinforcement making aluminum-like parts on a desktop printer. Pretty friggin' mind blowing.


Just saying: no, it's not 3D printed - but no, 3D printing isn't inherently bad either.
 
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Kyle Conner just did a video on CCS charging of Tesla's using the Ukrainian adapter, and how the adapter is currently not available due to the conflict over there... he mentioned that he wasn't sure if we could get the Korean adapter or not... I am ordering mine now before Tesla realizes what is up and shuts off the spigot!

Keith

PS: not sure how cautious / paranoid others are being, I changed my login to a dummy email account I use, changed the password, and deleted my payment method since I don't plan on taking any trips where I need to supercharge between now and when I get the adapter and change everything back.
 
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OK, perhaps it's time to talk about what we think TESLA will do when they release the CCS adapter in the USofA for us 2018 Tesla owners

I hear people talking about making their car compatible by buying the ECU4 and using the Falcon's bits of wire, but there is ALSO mention that this battery was never designed to go with this ECU, so perhaps a future SW update will break this configuration.

So what would Tesla offer that is different? I understand that there is a different wire setup on the ECU4 and perhaps Tesla will replace the HV and the charger inlet along with the ECU to make it all compatible. They would likely do this at a reasonable cost although I don't know of a better deal than shipping the CCS1 adapter from Korea and buying the ECU4 at my local parts department and glueing it together with Falcon Magic.

I supposed if I ever DID run into a software update that killed this marriage I could just do the Tesla trick AT THAT POINT and only be out the cost of an ECU and some wires. But what if they discover an issue with the CCS as it's being tested in Korea, will they send a new adapter to the address they sent the old one to (in Korea?). Just haven't convinced myself to get the adapter outside the states yet.

What do others think?
 
PS: not sure how cautious / paranoid others are being, I changed my login to a dummy email account I use, changed the password, and deleted my payment method since I don't plan on taking any trips where I need to supercharge between now and when I get the adapter and change everything back.
I don’t think the email address matters as they already know your email address. I did delete all payment methods in the account and change to a temporary password. I do not currently have MFA set up yet but I plan on setting it up after the adapter is shipped. Others here have already reported good things so I am not too worried, but it doesn’t hurt to be careful.

Also I don’t see why you can’t just change the password back as soon as you get an order confirmation that they purchased the item. They shouldn’t need your account info for anything once the order has been confirmed by Tesla.
 
So what would Tesla offer that is different?
Nothing more than replacing the ECU, but the Gen4 they will offer will be a different part number. The "-00-B" part at the end of the P/N tends to designate a "variation" of the same ECU, used for different purposes. The Gen4 I'm using (-00-B) is made for newer cars with Gen4 charge port & battery. The Gen4 they'll offer for retrofits will almost certainly be a different part number (-??-?).

Many of the pins on the Gen4 ECU board aren't populated, and at least one of those pins is needed to be used with the Gen3 charge port of older cars. I've checked, and it seems like it ought to be positioned in a way that would make it a "fillable" pin position for compatibility. So, electrically, the compatibility is there. The only reason it doesn't work today is that the software (keyed to the variation of the ECU P/N it believes it is) is coded to the electronics of the Gen4 port - which is why an adapter is used to shuffle signals around a little and make it look like a Gen4 port.

When Tesla comes out with the retrofit, there'll just be a different software tweak made to align it with Gen3's values - specifically, using Therm1 and Therm2 with a 10k thermistor voltage map (Gen4 is using a 100k therm + 100k bias - impossible to adapt a 10k properly, but my +10k trick aligns it closely enough for overheat protection, biased on the side of being overly protective), and ignoring the "high voltage cover" sensor that isn't present/doesn't exist on Gen3.

So, really, a pretty simple retrofit! Whenever this chip shortage clears up and they're not dedicating every available ECU to new cars... (😪 don't hold your breath)

(BTW, the Gen4 ECU is also used on the Chinese cars that have 2 charge ports - as far as I can tell! So there are a LOT of optional capabilities baked into the design. Kinda amazing how much they pulled off on a board smaller than Gen3. Just shows that there are "unlockable" capabilities they can switch in software...)
 
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Pins secured 😎
1650780262033.png


This weekend's restock of 10 kits sold out in 2 hours 🤯 So a restock of 25 is on its way to the Mysterious eBay Seller. Man, this thing is picking up! 😂 Keep an eye on this thread - you'll know when it's available again next weekend.
 
Hey guys,

Ever since I changed my password before ordering the adapter Teslafi stopped logging and my phone has stopped working as my key... I was able to get a new Tesla Token for Teslafi, and if I were going to use it during this short time period I would do the same for ABRP... but I don't see a way to update the phone as key. Do I have to delete my phone as key and re-install it to solve this?

Keith
 
Hey guys,

Ever since I changed my password before ordering the adapter Teslafi stopped logging and my phone has stopped working as my key... I was able to get a new Tesla Token for Teslafi, and if I were going to use it during this short time period I would do the same for ABRP... but I don't see a way to update the phone as key. Do I have to delete my phone as key and re-install it to solve this?

Keith
Odd that phone key stopped working (normal that TeslaFi would as well - changing your PW invalidates all previous logins), but should be a simple fix, front and center on the Tesla app, no? Asking to set up phone key?

If not, ... should be under the Security page of the Tesla app, to set up or troubleshoot phone-key. Like so:
1650873385653.png

Tap the Tesla card image at the top for this to appear.

Before doing this, to get the full reset and most likely working-ness, probably best to remove from the car's "keys" section as well, first. When setting up, it'll ask you to tap your key card (pro tip: you should also be able to tap it on the driver's side pillar outside the car same as tapping on the inside). Then you should be good as new!
 
Hey guys,

Ever since I changed my password before ordering the adapter Teslafi stopped logging and my phone has stopped working as my key... I was able to get a new Tesla Token for Teslafi, and if I were going to use it during this short time period I would do the same for ABRP... but I don't see a way to update the phone as key. Do I have to delete my phone as key and re-install it to solve this?

Keith
I simply had to re-login with the new password on the Tesla app. I’ve had no issues with my phone key.
 
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Question for clarity:

I don't have a service center near me so I plan on waiting for a software update before installing the new ECU. Whenever I get the new software update, should I "download" the update and just not "install" it? Or don't even download it?
I don't think you can choose not to download it 🤔 But just don't install it, haha. Let it download, and just keep dismissing the "install software update now?!" nag that pops up every time you get in the car, until you get the new ECU in. :)
 
Thanks - it won't ever auto install itself, right? Do I need to turn off WiFi also?
nah, it definitely won't auto install. I say that from 4 years of experience so far :) Every update has to have a button push from you. Just be mindful not to hit the "schedule" button, or you'll end up with exactly that: thinking it was auto-installed and forgot you hit schedule ;) IDK if there's a way to UN-schedule an install, so just... treat that schedule button like it's a landmine. haha. "Install now" is less hazardous - it can be canceled! 😂
 
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Thanks - it won't ever auto install itself, right? Do I need to turn off WiFi also?
I was on 2020.40.8 for over a year and then 2021.36.5.1 was installed on my car and I'm pretty sure that I did not ask for it. Each update in the 11 months would download but I would continue to dismiss each install.

edit: @FalconFour What about software updates that fix a "recall" notice? I don't know if one could dismiss an install that was issued in order to fix some known safety problem.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

I just found out from the service center the non-stripped GEN4 ECU is on order and they said we are not quoting any expected delivery time on parts.
Update to my own update:

As I said Charlotte was no help (not surprising as it has got to be the worst Tesla service center there is). Decided to call the Raleigh service center to see if they had the part available and no luck there either. Called the Richmond, VA service center since I've been there before (family lives there) and I've had nothing but positive experiences. Sure enough they had one in stock! Parts guy was super nice and since FedEx already came today it will be shipped tomorrow. Got the tracking number already too. ECU was $140 plus only $15.60 for overnight shipping!

He also asked my why I wanted it since he said it shows him in the system I have the latest ECU available with the "80-B" revision. I didn't give too much detail and simply just said I needed the "00-B" version as the "80-B" version is stripped down :)
 
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