JakeP
S P4996 ==> P02547
Moe, do you have any preliminary thoughts on CQuartz Immortal, the spray-on coating with self-healing properties like Xpel Ultimate?
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MoeMistry
Former Vendor
Immortal will not replace XPEL Ultimate IMHO...even at best, Immortal will add about 15 microns of material, PPF is around 180 microns. Immortal is going to be great for those not wanting clear bra but wanting a layer of protection that deals with imperfections such as scratches and swirls. It needs to be sprayed on like you would clear coat. Pretty amazing stuff and I cannot wait until we do our first application.
JakeP
S P4996 ==> P02547
Thanks Moe, glad to hear your thoughts. I am thinking of putting Immortal on my rear deck lid (currently coated with CQuartz Finest), since I am wary of the visible seam in the Xpel kit for that piece...the only painted surface on my car without Xpel.
blaz
Member
MoeMistry
Former Vendor
I have Pearl White, and put XPEL Ultimate on the full front + the rear bumper. My XPEL installer also applied OptiCoat over the XPEL. I did OptiCoat 2.0 over the rest of the car myself (it was not very hard, since the car was brand new and the only prep needed was a thorough wash and wipe-down with ethanol). Cost for the XPEL was about $1600.
I've been very happy with it so far -- the XPEL on the front and rear bumper has taken all of the hits from rocks and loading/unloading things into the trunk, and the car still looks great, six months later.
I've been very happy with it so far -- the XPEL on the front and rear bumper has taken all of the hits from rocks and loading/unloading things into the trunk, and the car still looks great, six months later.
I'm interested to know if Moe or anyone else has experience of Rejex (mentioned in my above post) as a product for waxing a car with Xpel ultimate on it. It is s thin film polymer coating. I was wondering if some products might lead to dust attraction with the wrap - can the wrap build up static somehow?
Another unrelated question to any takers - what doe it cost to fix a door ding to a perfect level. I'm wondering for comparison with replacing Xpel panels.
Another unrelated question to any takers - what doe it cost to fix a door ding to a perfect level. I'm wondering for comparison with replacing Xpel panels.
teslasguy
MSP P#1117
I have a P85 that I got in Dec 2012. I got the standard factory paint armor and then had the paint armor coated with OptiCoat Pro. I then had Cquartz Finest used on the rest of the car. OptiCoat goes over the paint armor without changing the look. Cquartz Finest tends to leave the film a little hazy. But I much prefer Cquartz on non filmed metal.
You don't need to wrap the whole car Greg...not all of us need a $10million life insurance policy. But, we all should have some life insurance. So, at a minimum, do a proper detail, nano coating, and wrap the front end. That would most likely be the best VALUE proposition. Great questions and no offense taken whatsoever. You're asking the right things and trying to come up with your own conclusion...I respect you for that
So the numbers are in... I asked for 4 quotes to what felt was the "top 4 installers" in the SF Bay Area (south bay), based on what I gather online.
First of all, out of 4, only 2 bothered to reply (Kudos to them!). One of them gave me the info by email, the other one just emailed me to tell me to call them.
Without giving names, here are the numbers.
This is assuming I just drive the car to the installer right after I take ownership (so hopefully minimal amount of correction/fixes).
Quote #1: full wrap starts at $6,500, frontend only starts at $2,250
Quote #2: full wrap around $8,000 to $8,500, frontend only for $2,700 to $2,800
Supply and demand, I guess.
-- Greg
kevincwelch
Active Member
FWIW, I recently got a quote for the Chicago area:
Full body: $4673
West coast seems to be more expensive in general.
docrice
Member
Was your quote just for the wrap or does it include prep work, paint correction. etc.? As a reference, I paid about $800 for correction (including wheels-off cleaning) and then $4000 for the wrap/film work. The detailer I use works with a film installer who comes to his shop which is literally a mile away from the factory and for me it was quite ideal since the minimal driving distance meant little chance of road debris impacting the paint.
At the beginning I had just the front end wrapped which was about $2000. A month later I decided to get the rest done. For paint correction, the right-out-of-the-factory condition on my car wasn't too bad so there wasn't extensive correction necessary. Every individual case may differ on this though.
The quotes include all the prep work, paint correction, etc.
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That's what I'd like to do when I pick up the car from Fremont. Still, $800 paint correction on a car that just left the factory? Does it get delivered in such a bad shape?
So from your numbers above it looks like a full wrap + correction/prep/etc can be had under $5,000 - correct?
What brand of film did you use?
Cheers,
-- Greg
mspohr
Well-Known Member
I still don't see the advantage of spending $6000 for a "wrap" when I could just deal with any paint damage that occurs on an ad hoc basis. If the wrap is damaged, you will still have to pay to fix it and that seems to be about the same cost as just re-painting in a body shop. The wrap only covers the outside surface so the talk of stripping everything to repaint is not a comparison.
As a point of comparison, I have a 14 year old Land Rover which I just repainted for $1300 with a good quality urethane paint (and a 6 year guarantee). This is not equivalent to a factory paint job but it looks better than new to me and only a professional could tell the difference (or care).
I say just leave the original paint as it is and deal with any damage as it happens. Much cheaper in the long run and you don't have these odd coatings or film (which are difficult to repair) on your car.
As a point of comparison, I have a 14 year old Land Rover which I just repainted for $1300 with a good quality urethane paint (and a 6 year guarantee). This is not equivalent to a factory paint job but it looks better than new to me and only a professional could tell the difference (or care).
I say just leave the original paint as it is and deal with any damage as it happens. Much cheaper in the long run and you don't have these odd coatings or film (which are difficult to repair) on your car.
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
Xpel is resistant to swirls. If you're hyper-sensitive like I am to swirls, halos, spiders, and all other manner of imperfections that happen even under the most careful of handwashing conditions, particularly on a dark color like black, then Xpel is a godsend.
mspohr
Well-Known Member
Hypersensitivity to swirls can be treated. I recommend transcendental meditation.
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
docrice
Member
My case wasn't bad, but I've heard about other cases which were worse. For new Model S orders, a detailer can't really give you a final cost number until he sees the actual car to be worked on, which is tricky since you can't present the car to him until you finally receive the vehicle. One of the first things I did when I took delivery was inspect the paint under high-power LED flashlight while the delivery folks stood by (probably wondering why I'd be doing such a thing). Factory delivery is more about achieving a paintwork that's acceptable enough for the vast majority of owners. For folks who are much more conscious of paint issues and expect a higher level of refinement, it's another standard altogether. I don't see Tesla spending an entire day for each vehicle to bring it up to a Concourse-level finish as it'd conflict with their ability to roll cars off the assembly line fast enough to meet quarterly numbers.
I have XPEL Ultimate. However, now that I got my second film wrap done (just picked up a few hours ago), I think I should clarify my numbers a bit. Bear in mind that I've had film and correction work in two separate time frames. First time was all-around correction and front-end wrap right after delivery. A month later, I decided to wrap the rest of the car (and some follow-up correction since other people marred my paint since then on unwrapped panels; I'm not including the follow-up correction into the numbers here). Given my particular situation, I suspect that I might've gotten a bit of a price break on the second wrap job. If I had gotten the entire vehicle wrapped the first time around, perhaps the numbers might be in line with your other quotes. I wouldn't be surprised if this were the case.
I think the film results on my car look good, but this is the first vehicle that I've had such a thing done on so I'm not going to pretend that I'm doing an expert evaluation.
If you'd like a referral to the detailer/film specialist, PM me. Note that these guys tend to get booked weeks or months in advance so if you use them, be conscious of your delivery date and schedule accordingly.
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Yeah, those are real bad holograms and swirling. It's such a shame to see them on a Tesla. These would irk me to no end. It's like walking around in a fine suit with food stains all around.
MoeMistry
Former Vendor
Did you get an itemized description of what's included for that price. There are many variances from installer to installer. It's not as simple as calling around and wanting a Michelin Pilot Super Sport P285/35/20. You need to know what your money is getting you and see who's providing the best VALUE. Hope this helps
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I use to use/sell Rejex years ago, a great product. However, I did notice the tip of the bottle nozzle and the yellowing of the product over time. For that reason, I did not recommend it to my clients with clear bra. If you want a great product that is perfect for clear bra, use CarPro Reload nano spray.
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