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Powertrain Problem; ID 276; BSM: V_ESS Too Low During Precharge

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DeedWest

2008 VP & 2011 2.5 Sport
Feb 5, 2014
937
1,154
Dallas, TX
Some of you may know of my intimate passion and obsession with the Roadster. I've been that way since day one.
After over a year since I let go of Clementine, my 2011 2.5 #1213, I took delivery of another Roadster on 9/9 in the afternoon.

9,950 miles on the clock. 2.5 Sport.
According to records, the first ~7,000 miles were owned by Tesla as a demo/loaner. I'd expect it was maintained healthily under their care.
The remaining ~2,900 miles were driven sparingly by a loving owner.

Now, keep in mind, I drove over 11,000 worry-free miles in 1213 last year. Had one annual service right before I sold her. No problems. No faults. Only the occasional goofy TPMS sensor which we all know and love DEARLY. I know each Roadster is vastly different in its own DNA, but the fact I had LESS problems with the Roadster than I did with my Sig Model S I owned for six months (thing was too huge), I hoped to never experience these "immobility" problems I'd heard horror stories of.

Now to the story:
1438 arrived with 160 miles in Standard Mode. I drove home, then drove around some more, and drove back home, with 58 miles remaining. Let me stress how this car drives & feels better than ANY of the 9 other Roadsters I've driven. I was truly smitten.

I plugged her into the UMC & a 14-50 plug. Car started charging healthily at 40A. I watched for a few minutes and went inside to sleep.

The next morning, I came outside after some tasks around the house. The car had finished charging at roughly 7AM, so given now that it was 11, I was eager to see what the car charged to on full standard charge.

I then pressed Top Off in the VDS, a feature I've used NUMEROUS times, to gain back the 3-5 miles I'd likely lost while it sat for 5+ hours after finishing.

It clicked normally. Then, CLICK. The most depressing of clicks. One I have not heard before. And I've heard these clicks probably 450 times in my life. I LIVE for these satisfying "hey-im-charging-happily" clicks. This, however, was not one of them.

The charging ring flashed red, and the VDS came back with the audible anxiety-creating beep-beep-beep. Here is a photo of what was on the screen. (This was later on when I entered Debug Mode to see the error more descriptively).

I have tried everything. Ive cycled the key several times. I've cycled the charge port door five times and then reset the key. I've reset the VDS manually in Diagnostic Mode. I've plugged in both my UMC, and Spare Connector (both show green lights for power, so it's not these cables).

The errors have randomly varied, but to put them into text just in case these photos don't work:

ID 276: BSM: V_ESS too low at end of precharge.
IMG_9366.JPG


ID 278: BSM: V_ESS too high at start of precharge.
IMG_9370.JPG


ID 288: BSM: V_ESS too low during precharge; t2
IMG_9368.JPG



When I turn the key, the car makes all its usual noises. Coolant is running, electronics working inside, VDS active, drivetrain vibrations still audible when pressing/releasing brake pedal, and even the PEM makes noises like it's cooling sometimes.

Keep in mind, due to my extreme passion for these cars, I've scanned these forums for the past 20 hours straight. Hardly slept. Learned more about the electronics of this car in 20 hours than I thought I'd ever learn. But, I am still ending up with some loose ends.

I'm hoping some of the experts on here could help me? My SC doesn't have a ranger that can come out until tomorrow, and my baby is sick. Battery is at 182 miles, so she's completely healthy to sit here, by the way.

ANY insight, experience, hopeful thoughts are appreciated. I haven't had the car more than 48 hours and I'm heartbroken. This one is the one; the crown jewel; the fully optioned dream car I'd stuck on my wallpaper for years.

Thank you all for reading.
 

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Thanks for the info, @MLAUTO. That's what I've seemed to gather as well...

Update: I have inhibited APS via the Diagnostic menu...gave it a little time, and uninhibited it. No change in error code.

Upside is, the PEM is now making louder cooling noises upon waking the car. It's 90 degrees here in Dallas today, so I suppose it couldn't be the worst thing if the PEM is at least acting like it should. My best guess is it could be a blown fuse that isn't allowing the car to safely start itself. Still no info...still waiting on a call from anyone from Tesla.
 
My largest apologies for never updating this thread.

I had the vehicle towed to my local SC, and they determined the 400V controller failed. The replacement was $1,566 total.

Thanks for the update. Good to get information on the definitive cause of these issues.

If it helps, you can consider yourself lucky. I've had three of those controllers fail (all replaced under warranty, in the early years of my ownership). The last one took out the fuse it is connected to back in the battery pack (which requires removing and disassembling the ESS to fix). I'd hate to think what the labour for that would be nowadays.
 
Mark, where the VDS error messages different and/or any additional messages displayed when it blew out your ESS fuse?

Nope. It seemed the same as the other two times. I'm told that there are two fuses (one on -200V and the other on +200V) and only one had blown. Tesla techs have a special tool they use to check power to the orange 400V converter, and that tool showed one of the 200V lines was a mess.
 
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Reactions: wiztecy
My largest apologies for never updating this thread.

I had the vehicle towed to my local SC, and they determined the 400V controller failed. The replacement was $1,566 total.

Do you know what controller failed? any additional info? is it the one located under the front that also controls the heating? Did it take out the battery fuse? was there still coolant pumps running when it had the fault?
 
Do you know what controller failed? any additional info? is it the one located under the front that also controls the heating? Did it take out the battery fuse? was there still coolant pumps running when it had the fault?

Hi Mark. Yes, it is the one located under the front that controls heating. It did not take out any ESS fuses. Also, my coolant pump was still running. As I mentioned above, everything acted as normal, only the car wouldn’t turn on.

It’s been a long time, but I recall the SC telling me that humidity had caused an anomaly with the 400V controller and it blew immediately when trying to initiate a charge. My car was outside, and it had lightly rained prior to me starting it.

Is your Roadster having the same error code?
 
Same error code ID 276 here.
The problem happened after a HP car wash. I cant charge or start my roadster. After reading this post , I know something wrong with the 400V control.

If you want start your car ,you can try this like me ( maybe you should ask tesla tech to help you )
Lark20200111-140558.jpeg
So I dispart it ,and ask my friend to fix it .He told me some small thing broken ,and he replaced it .

Now ,I can charge and start my roadster.
 

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Same error code ID 276 here.
The problem happened after a HP car wash. I cant charge or start my roadster. After reading this post , I know something wrong with the 400V control.

If you want start your car ,you can try this like me ( maybe you should ask tesla tech to help you )
View attachment 498880
So I dispart it ,and ask my friend to fix it .He told me some small thing broken ,and he replaced it .

Now ,I can charge and start my roadster.
Wow, nice work!
 
The 400V DC/DC converter is known for being very "sensitive" to moist and water (I therefore never go into a car wash with my Roadster).
GS Technology in Switzerland have developed a replacement for the DC converter. The original part comes from Epersbächer (German automotive company) but you won't get it directly from them but only with Tesla... Exchanging that part is a easy DIY.
1.5ers have a different converter!
 
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The 400V DC/DC converter is known for being very "sensitive" to moist and water (I therefore never go into a car wash with my Roadster).
GS Technology in Switzerland have developed a replacement for the DC converter. The original part comes from Epersbächer (German automotive company) but you won't get it directly from them but only with Tesla... Exchanging that part is a easy DIY.
1.5ers have a different converter!
where can we buy the replacement ?
 
GS Technology Switzerland GS Technology
They don't advertise it on their web site but there's a thread about it on the German Roadster Forum TFF.
Their nickname is eMG.
This is the thread: 400 V Controller • TFF Forum - Tesla Fahrer & Freunde
I had personal contact with those two guys when my PEM was blown (insulation IGBT problem) and they did a good job on it....
Maverik123 from the TMC already posted some questions about it. Please keep in mind that it is a German forum (he posted in english, should be in German...)
 
Hi Mark. Yes, it is the one located under the front that controls heating. It did not take out any ESS fuses. Also, my coolant pump was still running. As I mentioned above, everything acted as normal, only the car wouldn’t turn on.

It’s been a long time, but I recall the SC telling me that humidity had caused an anomaly with the 400V controller and it blew immediately when trying to initiate a charge. My car was outside, and it had lightly rained prior to me starting it.

Is your Roadster having the same error code?
yes it appears my roadster is also having the same issue. I have removed the controller and disassembled it. The MOSFET had blown so i replaced it, however after replacing the controller in the car im still getting the same fault code when i try to start the car. The cabin fan doesn't appear to work when i try turning the knobs. Ive also checked the fuses both in the PEM and inside the Fuse box. Any suggestions?
 
yes it appears my roadster is also having the same issue. I have removed the controller and disassembled it. The MOSFET had blown so i replaced it, however after replacing the controller in the car im still getting the same fault code when i try to start the car. The cabin fan doesn't appear to work when i try turning the knobs. Ive also checked the fuses both in the PEM and inside the Fuse box. Any suggestions?

Any update to this on how it was resolved? I just got the same error. :(