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Negative Camber in the Rear and Expensive Tires

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Thanks to lolachampcar for posting all his work on creating upper control arms. I was able to use that design to make upper arms to reduce the rear camber. Goal was as close to -1 degree camber on the rear with SAS at the Standard setting.
1. Started off with the lolachampcar CAD design and tweaked it so it could all be cut on a water jet with no machine work required.
2. Purchased 2 rear suspension integral links to use the bushings so as to not destroy the factory control arms.
3. Modified the CAD design to remove all the lightening holes. And enlarged the bushing holes so the bushing could be pressed in without additional machine work.
4. My first pass made the arms using the spec of plus .211 inches from the design on his page.
5. With the added length of .211 inches the camber with SAS on standard went to .5 degrees negative. Which was too little. Went back to the CAD design and shortened the bar this gave me the camber setting I was wanting.

Attached are images of the final control arms made out of 1" 6061-T651 bar aluminum cut on a Waterjet, my final alignment spec. I am going to pull out some of the toe on the rear even though I am within Tesla spec.

View attachment 550962

is this a 1 time project or do you think you might try to market these?

I was pretty close to pulling the trigger on the native links https://n2itive.me/ but I looked at the rear 19” Michelin’s and it is actually pretty good.
 
but I looked at the rear 19” Michelin’s and it is actually pretty good.

This thread is almost all about the fat, expensive, 21" rear tires, where the inner wear, and toe settings are pretty critical. 19" tires don't exhibit issues unless toe is very badly set for a lot of miles.

On the fat 21" rears, a little wrong can be seen in a few thousand miles.
 
I was also going to buy N2itive links because they are the only ones in the game with what appears to be a very well made product with testing.

Good luck getting an alignment shop to adjust the adjustable links, most wont because of the liability.

I decided to go with a factory style to get the camber setting i want without breaking the bank. Plus just want to see if I could make them as a small project. I did not want to change the factory toe links, and good news as you see from the alignment sheet the factory links are just fine, but this may not be the case with every car due to manufacturing variances with each car.

I am running the factory model X 20 inch wheels.

Every Tesla out there both S and X with SAS will benefit from reduced reduced camber and toe so the car does not eat tires. A fixed link was a bolt on and go took me less than 15 minutes per side to install.

The major hurdle with making these arms getting the factory bushings and assuming the that the suspension tolerances are close on the S and X the length of the bars should get you where you want to be. If there is an interest I would consider getting more cut, but they are a use at your own risk. I'm just a Tesla geek who wanted to make a slight improvement to the rear suspension.
 
The major hurdle with making these arms getting the factory bushings and assuming the that the suspension tolerances are close on the S and X the length of the bars should get you where you want to be.

Not aware if you have seen these or not; not sure if they would just sell the rears only, there must be others out there too, but doesn't seem practical to buy the little links from Tesla just to use the bushings. How much are those links?

https://www.galemotorsport.com/product-page/tesla-model-s-control-arm-bushings-kit
 
Not aware if you have seen these or not; not sure if they would just sell the rears only, there must be others out there too, but doesn't seem practical to buy the little links from Tesla just to use the bushings. How much are those links?

https://www.galemotorsport.com/product-page/tesla-model-s-control-arm-bushings-kit
Was able to find a pair of used low mileage rear integral links off ebay for around 100 for the pair. Tesla does not sell the bushings by themselves you have to buy the whole link.
 
Guys and gals, I'm waiting to accept delivery of my 2020 Model X LR+. I got it on 22" rims. Do I need to proactively buy camber arms for rear and toe and plan to put them on when I get my Model X? Or is this issue only seen on older models?

It's still a factor, so you can certainly order the control arms if you want to.

But if I was in your shoes, I would just have a local performance alignment shop (not Discount Tire or some garbage) to check and adjust the toe to the minimum toe-in, and then look at less expensive tires when you replace them. Sure, you might only get 80-90% of the tire life, but you're also you're looking at $400 for a set instead of $1500...

I use Lexani LX-Twenty's on my Model S....they're quieter than factory, ride smoother, and so far are lasting just as long. Same DOT approvals as any other tire. And they're only $90/each.
 
Guys and gals, I'm waiting to accept delivery of my 2020 Model X LR+. I got it on 22" rims. Do I need to proactively buy camber arms for rear and toe and plan to put them on when I get my Model X? Or is this issue only seen on older models?

If it was me I would have the rear toe in (at a minimum) checked by a trusted alignment shop.

If was in spec I might have the adjust to the minimum in-spec toe in and not worry about it.

I'd check the alignment again any time the service center touched it.

If $400+ per tire bothers you I would switch to smaller wheel/skinnier tire combo that was oem. They'll wear longer/better and ride smoother. 19" certainly did on my P85+
 
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It's still a factor, so you can certainly order the control arms if you want to.

But if I was in your shoes, I would just have a local performance alignment shop (not Discount Tire or some garbage) to check and adjust the toe to the minimum toe-in, and then look at less expensive tires when you replace them. Sure, you might only get 80-90% of the tire life, but you're also you're looking at $400 for a set instead of $1500...

I use Lexani LX-Twenty's on my Model S....they're quieter than factory, ride smoother, and so far are lasting just as long. Same DOT approvals as any other tire. And they're only $90/each.

Whoa!

First I heard of these Lexani LX...I wonder if they do 19's
 
Actually, I tried it with the hardened solid ball style joints that Tesla ended up going to on their latests upper links, They were not adjustable but were done to remove excessive play in upright position. I found there was no need for adjustment as the longest link that would not require new toe links removed but a degree of camber. I was hoping for more so adjustment was not a consideration.

Lastly, every time I've tried Heims on the street, they have worn out way too quickly even when using seals.
 
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