My feet are freezing!

[Cyclone]

Concern: Perform Service Bulletin: Model S | SB-13-18-002 | Footwell Cover Update for Improved Air Flow

Corrections: Replace LH Footwell Cover

Replaced Left Footwell cover with an updated version to increase air flow.

Part
PLASTICS SUB ASY - COVER FOOT WELL LEFT (1016340-00-F)

Pay Type: Warranty



The vents in my old version didn't line up with the holes in the cover (I could reach into them and feel it wasn't aligned / passenger side they felt aligned and airflow was good). I assume some of the air was getting channeled into the dash (and not toward my feet) because of this. The new cover lines up with the vents, and I can actually feel air blowing on my feet now.

I LOVE YOU!!!! :love:

I have consulted Parts and they have confirmed this part is available and that your VIN falls within the qualified range. I will order the part and reach back to schedule once I confirm part arrival.

I can't tell you how excited I am!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[trils0n]

Glad they are updating it for you Cyclone. It made a big difference for my car. (This is the first winter since I had my car it has been cold enough here in CA that I even noticed the airflow was poor.)

 

[taurusking]

I will call my service center and see what they can do.

People like me who live far away from the service center have this annoyance of going to service center frequently to get these things fixed.

 

[AgentWimplo]

So I haven't heard back from emailing ServiceNA just yet but I did try something someone here had suggested. I changed to a custom setting in the HVAC system:

AC Off
Recirculate Off
Auto Location
Auto Fan

The AC I don't need to run in the winter and if recirculate comes on in the cold the windows would fog. Since doing this I've now noticed warm air blowing on my feet! In fact I had to adjust the temp down a bit on the driver side.....weird but working. I still get some of the set it and forget it capability. Still hoping that this gets addressed in a fix at some point but for now this is an improvement.

 

[Lex]

I just thought I'd have to deal with cold feet on long trips, so it's good to know that this might get fixed in software (assuming that this new airflow piece is already in later MS builds). In the meantime I will try some of the manual settings that members have suggested for longer trips.

 

[bartdv]

I wonder if they solve the cold feet issue in the 8.0 Anyone any experience ?

 

[AWDtsla]

I would bet $1000 there has been no change or even a regression on this front for 8.0. But it's not cold in except very few places in the world right now, so there will be no feedback.

 

[Lex]

It's already getting chilly out here in the Toronto area so I've been thinking about this, and re-reading through this thread I'm not going to hesitate to complain about it this winter, maybe there's still a different physical deflector out there...

 

[AWDtsla]

It's already getting chilly out here in the Toronto area so I've been thinking about this, and re-reading through this thread I'm not going to hesitate to complain about it this winter, maybe there's still a different physical deflector out there...

Don't forget to complain about the heated steering wheel being buried in the menus AND not remembering your last setting. Or the fact that the heated seat nor heated steering wheel will pre-warm remotely, forget about defrosting the glass...

 

[bartdv]

its getting cold over here too. Found a possible solution.
There is a cold bridge behind your feet a bare aluminum plate without or barelerly isolation. If you measure the temp inside the car at your feet you wil notice that there is no temp problem. Cold Air is blowing against this plate. Because the air is getting colder this time a year your feet freeze. Although there is enough heat coming from your heater.

Imagine putting your bare feet against a ice cold window in a warm area. I isolated the bare plate and found it very helpful

I hope i made it clear enough in English for you guys to understand what I mean


B

 

[Lex]

So you are saying that "thermal induction" is taking the heat from our feet, like a heat sink does on a CPU cooler... and that some insulation will solve the problem, but my shoes have rubber soles and that is also insulation... ??

It sounds like you found a way to fix the problem, could you post more informations, pictures possibly ?

 

[bartdv]

Rubber does not isolate enough and only the bottom. The cold radiation is also coming from the top of your feet. What I did
I took the cover above the pedal off. Reisolated the aluminum plate and the bottom cover , filled up the holes with themic isolation tape. I closed all the holes. And problem is solved, finally !!!

This is actual a construction fault. (Outside cold air is cooling the aluminum plate behind the pedals, this cold plate causes a cold radiation (hope this is the right way to describe it in English)) Pictures is going to be tuff since i already closed the cover etc...

 

[Ulmo]

Rubber does not isolate enough and only the bottom. The cold radiation is also coming from the top of your feet. What I did
I took the cover above the pedal off. Reisolated the aluminum plate and the bottom cover , filled up the holes with themic isolation tape. I closed all the holes. And problem is solved, finally !!!

This is actual a construction fault. (Outside cold air is cooling the aluminum plate behind the pedals, this cold plate causes a cold radiation (hope this is the right way to describe it in English)) Pictures is going to be tuff since i already closed the cover etc...

I would love to get a little bit more idea of what aluminum plate this gentleman is discussing. Can anybody explain it a bit better? Is it accessed from the interior of the car, the frunk, or below the car? How would I get at it? Once at it, I could probably figure out the rest (reisolation, themic isolation tape, closed holes).

 

[jerry33]

I would love to get a little bit more idea of what aluminum plate this gentleman is discussing. Can anybody explain it a bit better? Is it accessed from the interior of the car, the frunk, or below the car? How would I get at it? Once at it, I could probably figure out the rest (reisolation, themic isolation tape, closed holes).

I think he means the firewall--or what would be the firewall in an ICE.

 

[AWDtsla]

Since this thread is back... One trick I learned, is to make sure to force on floor direction only, and make sure to force the fan setting to 5 or more. This prevents excessive cooling of the footwell compared to the rest of the car. Mind you, if it's 10F out, you'll get a comfy 55F in cabin with range mode on anyway.

 

[yobigd20]

Since this thread is back... One trick I learned, is to make sure to force on floor direction only, and make sure to force the fan setting to 5 or more. This prevents excessive cooling of the footwell compared to the rest of the car. Mind you, if it's 10F out, you'll get a comfy 55F in cabin with range mode on anyway.

Ever since 8.0 (I think it was 8.0), only setting heat to HI will blow out heat. 80 and below is all the same cool or cold air. This makes for a very uncomfortable ride now since I constantly need to turn the heat (HI,obviously) on and off (because HI for extended period of time gets too hot). So my 3 hour commute is now hot cold hot cold hot cold hot cold. I used to just be able to keep it at 74 and be comfortable but not anymore.

 

[Ulmo]

Ever since 8.0 (I think it was 8.0), only setting heat to HI will blow out heat. 80 and below is all the same cool or cold air. This makes for a very uncomfortable ride now since I constantly need to turn the heat (HI,obviously) on and off (because HI for extended period of time gets too hot). So my 3 hour commute is now hot cold hot cold hot cold hot cold. I used to just be able to keep it at 74 and be comfortable but not anymore.

I never experienced it back when it worked OK. I'm having the same experience as you.

This is one of my workarounds:

Set it to HI temperature, and fan to 1. Fiddle during drive with AC ON or OFF to compensate (AC ON is preferred, but set to OFF will allow more heat, but will fog windows ---- good to spike heat for a moment). Fiddle also with OUTSIDE AIR (always preferred), if absolutely necessary. If I want slightly more heat, I set fan to 2. This type of fiddling is actually giving me too much heat now that it is no longer the dead of winter, and added to my floor electric blanket, I'm back to the problem you described again.

 

[mknox]

I think subsequent firmware releases have fixed this a bit, but my observation is that when in Auto, the car will be in "Recirculate" mode more often than it should in the cold. With no positive air pressure in the car, you will notice cold spots where outside air may be seeping in, or just where there is some cold conduction from the outside. (It can also lead to unnecessary window fogging).I pretty much always have my car set to over-ride into the fresh outside air setting and I don't have these problems.

 

[Cyclone]

I'm on 7.1 still and I can distinctly feel the car blows hot or cold air when I'm on fresh or recirc, respectively, when the cabin temp is near the setpoint. When the cabin is much colder than setpoint, both will blow hot air, but as the cabin warms up, the hot-fresh/cold-recirc behavior kicks in.

 

[AWDtsla]

Ever since 8.0 (I think it was 8.0), only setting heat to HI will blow out heat. 80 and below is all the same cool or cold air. This makes for a very uncomfortable ride now since I constantly need to turn the heat (HI,obviously) on and off (because HI for extended period of time gets too hot). So my 3 hour commute is now hot cold hot cold hot cold hot cold. I used to just be able to keep it at 74 and be comfortable but not anymore.

HI will force the heater to max power regardless of range settings. I agree, this is what I have to do many times when it is cold out.

The sad part is, if is the point of this was to save energy, setting it to HI and letting it go way overboard and then turning it down wastes even more energy than if the thermostat actually did its job.