Model X - Adjustable Camber arms to reduce rear tire wear

[ngng]

They are directional in sense that the tire actually says indie of rim & outside wall. The tires are not directional. So you cannot swap by removing of the rim and place on another rim for even wear. Personally it’s not work the hassle at this point. The 22’s get more significant wear on the inside vs the 20’s. The look of the 22’s look fantastic on the X if you drive locally and don’t care for tire wear. Someone like me to often take road trips, maximize the tire life and ride quality is key factors..

Huh

 

[SpicyPaneer]

Huh

The tires are one way direction the tire say outside wall on them so they one go in one direction when mounted

 

[Abraham Wilson]

Where do I buy the read camber kits? I have a 2016 MX. I found these 2 options, and looking for any reviews/experience using any of them. The price difference is significant so am not sure which one is the right one and safe one.

Rear Camber Kit Tesla Model S/X Hardrace Q0601 (any reviews / experience anyone has using these?)

or

N2itive SX-2 Rear Camber Arms - Fixes Tesla X/S Crazy Rear Tire Wear!

Ty man for posting I been wanting to do same but no clue where to find

 

[mxnym]

The tires are one way direction the tire say outside wall on them so they one go in one direction when mounted

Your first post is confusing because it says "directional in a sense" and then goes on to talk about what to do with actual directional tires instead of the tires you are discussing (which shouldn't be called directional at all, because they aren't, maybe asymettrical, but I'm not sure if asymmetrical tread and "outside" markings are mutually inclusive), but your second post trying to clarify is simply wrong, because tires marked "outside" go the other direction when mounted on the other side of the vehicle. Put another way, if you cross rotate them, they will be going the other direction (you can't dismount and re-mount them to change which side is the outside, so they must go both directions by design or you'd have to buy different tires for each side of the vehicle). You seem to correctly understand that directional tires have an arrow on them which says which way they should spin. If you want to rotate those, you would have to dismount and re-mount to change which side is the outside while simultaneously cross rotating them, as they should only drive (as opposed to reverse) in the rotational direction the arrows point. In regard to this thread, taking both of those actions simultaneously would effectively be the same as "flipping" tires with no "outside" or directional marking, but for tires with an "outside" marking, the inside will always be the inside, so there is no way to address the wear common with a model X (inside wear on both rear tires which can't be rotated to the front with the factory staggered configuration).

 

[cbdoc]

Do these kits void warranty, especially on half shaft?

 

[geordi]

Do these kits void warranty, especially on half shaft?

No - firstly the arms are for the rear and the half shaft issues are on the front.
The second thing is the arms are for the pre-refresh (AFAIK the new ones only need a shim kit but that could be wrong info, I only have old ones) and the older they are, the less likely there's a warranty to worry about.
Third is the half shaft recall is a $350 replacement and adjustment for the front drive unit that HOPEFULLY fixes the half shaft issue permanently.

And last and hardest to argue with uninformed dealer monkeys: The Magnuson-Moss warranty act says that if they want to deny warranty coverage for a certain part based on an aftermarket modification, they have to PROVE that the modification caused the failure. Just saying "it could have" or denying warranty work for anything unrelated is nonsense and illegal on the part of the service department.

But when they've decided to be numpties, good luck getting anything out of them. Best to just try another service center or another day - the turnover is so bad that you aren't likely to see the same person twice anyway. I pretty much never have.

 

[ngng]

did you mean we exist? Who do you think they care about more, someone that has an old X or someone thats about to buy one? I would argue they should care about both.

Based on their last earnings report, they don't appear to care about either. They did sucker me into a new Y though

 

[geordi]

They came close to getting me on a new Y today too, giving me one with FSD 12 for a demo drive / loaner. While I was being fleeced for a coolant valve AND a $200 "diagnostic charge" where they had decided prior to the visit that it was the 3 way coolant valve leaking - which had NEVER leaked prior to the pyro fuse replacement.

The Y is a nice vehicle, and NOT having overcomplicated front doors and ridiculous vertical door money pits is a nice change. But I also like not having a car payment and I just renewed the registration.

Maybe when the prices crash another 10k... Or I'll just buy used like I always do, if I'm going to get one. The only reason I'd get new is to transfer the FUSC, and that'd have to be ironclad to make me do it.

 

[ngng]

They came close to getting me on a new Y today too, giving me one with FSD 12 for a demo drive / loaner. While I was being fleeced for a coolant valve AND a $200 "diagnostic charge" where they had decided prior to the visit that it was the 3 way coolant valve leaking - which had NEVER leaked prior to the pyro fuse replacement.

The Y is a nice vehicle, and NOT having overcomplicated front doors and ridiculous vertical door money pits is a nice change. But I also like not having a car payment and I just renewed the registration.

Maybe when the prices crash another 10k... Or I'll just buy used like I always do, if I'm going to get one. The only reason I'd get new is to transfer the FUSC, and that'd have to be ironclad to make me do it.

The SC transfer and my ability to lower my AGI to qualify for the tax credit was what convinced me. But now that I've had it for a while, I really love everything about the Y: no half shaft issues, no rear alignment issues, no crazy doors to fail, better battery chemistry, faster charging, aftermarket suspension options. The extra room in the X was nice, but the Y is better for my use cases.

 

[geordi]

The SC transfer and my ability to lower my AGI to qualify for the tax credit was what convinced me. But now that I've had it for a while, I really love everything about the Y: no half shaft issues, no rear alignment issues, no crazy doors to fail, better battery chemistry, faster charging, aftermarket suspension options. The extra room in the X was nice, but the Y is better for my use cases.

I use the X for road trips where I need to tow and bring along tools either on a small trailer or on a tray on the back, to work on diesel Jeeps. I car-camp with a bed in the back. The X is great for that, but the size difference with the Y makes me think that it would probably work equally as well. With towing and the increased power usage for the X anyway, having the FUSC is the main thing for me, and then the AP1 which works fine where I want it: On the highway. I don't need it trying to watch me and failing to see that I AM WATCHING THE ROAD (the demo car tossed me off once and complained at me 4 times about paying attention) so there's clearly issues there that I just don't care to deal with. I'm not trying to sleep on the highway (though it would be nice) so I don't need a nanny dialed up to 11 when I KNOW that "Elon Mode" exists where there is NO nanny nonsense at all.

Rules for thee, but not for me. That's Elon's way.

 

[rstx]

Based on their last earnings report, they don't appear to care about either. They did sucker me into a new Y though

Haha I hear you. Seeing a brand new MYP for $43k (including credit) has my attention too. Really cant beat that car at that price.

 

[ngng]

Haha I hear you. Seeing a brand new MYP for $43k (including credit) has my attention too. Really cant beat that car at that price.

That is a GREAT price, my MIL paid close to $70 for a LR!