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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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My car was exceptionally good (24k miles, mid-2013) until last week. Then, I had up to 11 error messages, and the parking brake wouldn't release (more accurately, the car didn't know the state of the parking brake). Tesla had it towed (which was it's own adventure, since the parking brake wouldn't release), and has had the car for the last week. They've replaced the drive unit, the HV contactors in the battery, and now want to take it for a 50 mile extended test drive...

I'm not unhappy, as I've been traveling and haven't needed the car, but I'm a little concerned that they haven't told me a cause for all the errors. I'm guessing some sort of wiring or networking issue, but that's just a very uninformed guess.
 
They had wanted to replace the drive unit anyway. When I had it in for the annual service, they mentioned that they would like to replace the drive unit at some point, and scheduled me for sometime in July. When the car freaked out and they had it for an extended period, they decided to go ahead and replace the drive unit when they had some time.

Is a 50 mile test drive normal for a drive unit replacement?

I don't think they'd replace the drive unit for wiring or network issues.
 
So how do you know when you have a lemon?

I have had the following replaced.

drive unit
pano roof
mirrors
head lights
countless rattles and sounds
and now my AC does not work.

Car has been in the shop at least 12 times.

are the newer vin numbers any better? I am thinking 50K plus.

I had a car lemoned once (Range Rover). It's considered a lemon if it has less than 100k on odometer and has been in the shop for more than 30 days straight or if it's been in multiple times for an issue they cannot resolve.
 
Sound came back. On the second though it doesn't necessarily come from display but anyway from somewhere in dashboard. It is not continuous, but needs proper speed and road surface texture.

Edit: it comes from vibrating display (smaller display). When I press it, sound stops.
 
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My brand spanking new 70D did this. Rather than wait for Tesla service, I traced it to a screw not fully tightened at the factory on the vent to the left of the small display..It vibrated constantly at around 70 MPH as soon as I hit the 880 right outside the factory. How they did not find this during the QC test drive is beyond me.

I also discovered a small chip in the corner of the piano black storage area on the floor on the way home from Fremont. I'll point this out next time I'm at service for some other reason. I don't want to be "that" bitchy customer guy taking my car in for some minor cosmetic defect.
 
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My brand spanking new 70D did this. Rather than wait for Tesla service, I traced it to a screw not fully tightened at the factory on the vent to the left of the small display..It vibrated constantly at around 70 MPH as soon as I hit the 880 right outside the factory. How they did not find this during the QC test drive is beyond me.

Is that screw visible without dissambling?
 
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My brand spanking new 70D did this. Rather than wait for Tesla service, I traced it to a screw not fully tightened at the factory on the vent to the left of the small display..It vibrated constantly at around 70 MPH as soon as I hit the 880 right outside the factory. How they did not find this during the QC test drive is beyond me.

I also discovered a small chip in the corner of the piano black storage area on the floor on the way home from Fremont. I'll point this out next time I'm at service for some other reason. I don't want to be "that" bitchy customer guy taking my car in for some minor cosmetic defect.

Honestly, little disappointed in the piano black console I had installed also. The edge of the piano black material when closed, towards the rear, is all uneven/chipped/rough looking like it wasn't applied well or rubbed off. :-/
 
Here is a sample of the sound.

http://1drv.ms/1gqzNqN

Low frequency rumble comes from tires in rough surface, but the problem is the high pitch vibrating sound which comes from the small display.

I've got a rattle like that in my right front door that sounds like a connector or something banging against the door trim. It only occurs when the sound system is turned up and a certain bass frequency is hit. It's the same sound but at a more regular frequency.

I wonder if it's a connector? The poor NVH guys at Tesla must really have their work cut out for them without a noisy ICE to mask all these odd sounds. I've managed to find and fix several already. It's somewhat fun and I get to avoid wasting Tesla service resources. (and be w/o my new car for what would probably seem forever!)

- - - Updated - - -

Also; forgot to mention that the dash parts are pretty easy to take apart. The assemblies are put together just like all cars built in the last ~20 years; they use round plastic "xmas tree" type fasteners and metal clips that snap into rectangular cut-outs. There are very few screws, but it's important to find them before yanking on something so you aren't in danger of breaking something. Not for everyone, but once you gain a little knowledge it's easy. Tesla almost exclusively uses Torx fasteners everywhere, so very few tools can take the car apart pretty fast. In my younger years I worked in the automotive aftermarket industry and gained a lot of knowledge of such things that's very useful now.

I wish Tesla would release the service manuals to everyone (besides MA residents), as they likely contain the R&A (Removal & Assembly) procedures for everything in the car. It's silly for them not to.

Eventually someone will start selling CD's on Ebay since the market demand is there. It's better for Tesla to step up instead of encouraging the pirate sellers.