Model S - HPWC (High Power Wall Connector)

[SW2Fiddler]

I did make him install the case-to-ground-bus wire...

Edit to add: this is one of the 'old' design units with 70A compatibility. I'm getting 14kW / 56A / 42MPH charging and can move up to 100A breaker when I think the house is ready.

 

[Cottonwood]

Upgraded from NEMA 14-50 to HPWC today.
Outdoor installation. Set up with #3 to a 70A breaker in a 100A subpanel. #3 from the main (~30 feet) in 1" EMT.
Pearlie May is happy drinking 14kW (she has two "straws" ...chargers) and the voltage stays up at 242/243 even when the house HVAC comes on.
Inspection Wednesday (two days from today).
Question though. re: Weatherproofing. Does the HPWC have a drip channel, inside, at the left-side conduit ingress? Do I spy a weep hole at bottom front? Or should I ask this electrician for some gasket for the outside (see pics)? Same question re: sub panel. This is not in a dry area.

Unless you have one of the old HPWC's that can be set to 70 Amps, the only choices at the high end are 100, 80, and 40 Amp breakers for 80, 64, or 40 Amp charging. See page 16 of http://www.teslamotors.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/tesla-wall-connector-installation-80A-12A.pdf.

If you happen to have one of the old HPWC's, then there is a 70 Amp breaker choice for 56 Amp charging. See page 15 of https://www.teslamotors.com/sites/default/files/blog_attachments/hpwc_install_guide_rev_3.pdf.

If you have one of the new HPWC's (check the paper install manual), then I would suggest seeing if the sub-panel loading will take an 80 Amp breaker. The #3 wire should be good for 100 Amps.

Good Luck!

 

[InternetDude]

SW2Fiddler, there likely should be a plastic nut at the end of the conduit where the wires come out in the HPWC. There is one on the other end. I guess we'll see if it passes inspection. For the record I'm not an electrician but I DIY'd mine and it passed.

 

[FlasherZ]

I'd hope that having one of the roach motel holders would qualify as not "hanging" from the outlet.

If you think it qualifies as "fastened in place" to a normal observer, then you're probably good.

- - - Updated - - -

Question though. re: Weatherproofing. Does the HPWC have a drip channel, inside, at the left-side conduit ingress? Do I spy a weep hole at bottom front? Or should I ask this electrician for some gasket for the outside (see pics)? Same question re: sub panel. This is not in a dry area.

If this is a wet area, I would expect to see water-tight hubs on the boxes, but it appears those are fittings suitable for dry locations only.

- - - Updated - - -

SW2Fiddler, there likely should be a plastic nut at the end of the conduit where the wires come out in the HPWC. There is one on the other end. I guess we'll see if it passes inspection. For the record I'm not an electrician but I DIY'd mine and it passed.

Yes, a conduit bushing is required, too...

 

[m6bigdog]

If you think it qualifies as "fastened in place" to a normal observer, then you're probably good.

- - - Updated - - -



If this is a wet area, I would expect to see water-tight hubs on the boxes, but it appears those are fittings suitable for dry locations only.

- - - Updated - - -



Yes, a conduit bushing is required, too...

I'm sorry FlasherZ, IMHO, this install is a mess.
It will be interesting to see if it is a Pass or Fail as you never know!!

Disconnect Box:
I see a bonding jumper that needs to be pulled, the grounding conductors need to terminate to the box by adding a grounding bar and the neutral block is being used for grounding conductors. Hence there is a missing neutral wire in the feeder if it is going to be a 120/240 combination circuit. edit: I think is see a white tape coming off a black wire and if that is correct they need to use more tape for permanence of the marking and some of the comments in the [] below for the disconnect box are irrelevant.

So is the black wire w/green tape fed into the box really a grounding conductor or the neutral from the loadcenter?
[If it is the load center ground the neutral for the 110 receptacle is feed from the grounding conductor. If it is the neutral what are all the grounding conductors doing on that bar.]

Also, there is no bushing on the threads at the top of the box which brings in to question of how the supply conduit fittings is configured? Should be a rainproof hub or other acceptable methods for rainproof entrance.

The HPWC supply does not have a seal or conduit nut on the outside at the nipple.
The rubber on the HPWC should be cut back to the trace-line to provide clearance for the fitting.
A weather proof slip fitting will not work because the wall thickness of the HPWC does not leave enough threads on the inside for attachment so a threaded coupling, seal and close nipple can be used to make up an entrance fitting that will provide for sufficient threads inside the box for a nut and bushing inside.

 

[chriSharek]

Can someone post a picture of the "guts" of a newer model HPWC for up to 100 amp breaker (80 amp charge rate)? Specifically, I'm curious where the ground connects. I can see from the pic above where the two leads connect, but the ground seems to get lost under the leads. Thanks!

 

[FlasherZ]

Can someone post a picture of the "guts" of a newer model HPWC for up to 100 amp breaker (80 amp charge rate)? Specifically, I'm curious where the ground connects. I can see from the pic above where the two leads connect, but the ground seems to get lost under the leads. Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

I'm sorry FlasherZ, IMHO, this install is a mess.
It will be interesting to see if it is a Pass or Fail as you never know!!

Please read the posts again and pay attention to the original authors... the first comment "you should be good" was in response to jerry33 saying the following about article 625 in NEC 2014 requiring that EVSE be "fastened in place":

'I'd hope that having one of the roach motel holders would qualify as not "hanging" from the outlet."

As for the install, I did not do any full assessment of the install, I answered two questions from two different posters. First, SW2 asked about weatherproofing, and I talked about the need for weather-proof fittings and hubs. Then InternetDude talked about the need for a conduit bushing, and I responded affirmatively.

That installation has a number of problems - you pointed out the bonding jumper issue (however, that's legal if that panel was pre-existing prior to the 4-wire subpanel rule). The breakers appear to be a mixture of Eaton BR and GE Q series, so I'd want to check to ensure the breakers are properly listed. I already pointed out the weathertight fitting problems. The 120V outlet neutral and ground might just BARELY pass for wire length in the box (the small loops in them). I don't expect that particular installation would pass, at all, where inspections are required.

 

[chriSharek]

Thanks Flashers! I thought the ground strip was below there - just wanted to be sure. cs

HPWC order shipped yesterday. Awaiting install . . . only 90 days prior to my delivery . . . guh.

 

[chriSharek]

Final HPWC Install. Only 84 days until delivery . . .

50 amp breaker, Two #4 wires (Leads), one # 8 wire (ground), very simple install. Clean and ready to go!

 

[Andyw2100]

Final HPWC Install. Only 84 days until delivery . . .

A small bit of unsolicited advice...

You may want to consider just coiling the connector end with the rest of the cable, instead of plugging it into the holder, especially considering that it appears if it falls it will be landing on concrete. I don't know how many landings on concrete the connector end can take, but I've been overly cautious with mine. It may not look quite as cool just being coiled, but it seems safer.

 

[chriSharek]

A small bit of unsolicited advice...

You may want to consider just coiling the connector end with the rest of the cable, instead of plugging it into the holder, especially considering that it appears if it falls it will be landing on concrete. I don't know how many landings on concrete the connector end can take, but I've been overly cautious with mine. It may not look quite as cool just being coiled, but it seems safer.

Thanks Andy. Since I won't be using it for 83 more days, I'm going to leave it in the holster for now, but I like your suggestion and will certainly use it!

 

[Canuck]

Thanks Andy. Since I won't be using it for 83 more days, I'm going to leave it in the holster for now, but I like your suggestion and will certainly use it!

Or put a piece of foam on the concrete under the holster for soft landings... and take the plastic wrap off the connector!

 

[chriSharek]

Or put a piece of foam on the concrete under the holster for soft landings... and take the plastic wrap off the connector!

I figured I'd take the plastic wrap off the connector and the EVSE when I get the car. It'll be like unwrapping a Christmas gift, but already be installed!

 

[smilepak]

Just wanted to post out there, most pp already know the answers, but seems to be asked a lot

Do you need a "Dual Charger"? --> Tesla Accessories and Charging Adapters Dual Charger with Installation

Tesla Accessories and Charging Adapters Wall Connector

The Tesla Wall Connector is a hardwired charging station designed for 208-250 volt power supplies. Operating current (up to 80 amps) will be configured by the installing electrician, allowing the unit to be customized to almost any power source. For the fastest charge rate, install the Wall Connector with an 80 amp or 100 amp circuit breaker. The unit is also capable of being installed on 15, 20, 30, 40, or 50 amp circuit breakers. Charge rates will vary depending on circuit breaker rating. Note that Model S must be equipped with the Dual Chargers option to accept charge currents above 40 amps (50 amp circuit breaker). Connector cable is 25 feet.

In order to fully take advantage of HPWC, your Model S must be equipped with the Dual Chargers. Otherwise, you are charging at no difference than using the NEMA 14-50 240V 40amp. So unless you car Model S has a dual charger, it is a waste of money to spend $750 to purchase the HPWC, other than aesthetic.

I could totally wrong, but that is what I think I understood

 

[hcsharp]

...
In order to fully take advantage of HPWC, your Model S must be equipped with the Dual Chargers. Otherwise, you are charging at no difference than using the NEMA 14-50 240V 40amp. So unless you car Model S has a dual charger, it is a waste of money to spend $750 to purchase the HPWC, other than aesthetic.
...

The exception to this is to help people who come to visit you. You can say "Well nobody who visits me needs to charge..." but that ignores the future of travel. Some day most people will be driving electric and you'll wish you had an 80A HPWC to help them out. It's a little bit like handicap access. You might think "Why do I need to make my house accessible? I don't have anybody who comes to visit me who is mobility impaired." That's probably the reason they don't ever visit you.

In four years I can count on one hand the number of times I needed more than 40A at home. But I'm sure glad I installed 80A capacity because it's been useful countless times to visitors.

 

[m6bigdog]

Just wanted to post out there, most pp already know the answers, but seems to be asked a lot

Do you need a "Dual Charger"? --> Tesla Accessories and Charging Adapters Dual Charger with Installation

Tesla Accessories and Charging Adapters Wall Connector



In order to fully take advantage of HPWC, your Model S must be equipped with the Dual Chargers. Otherwise, you are charging at no difference than using the NEMA 14-50 240V 40amp. So unless you car Model S has a dual charger, it is a waste of money to spend $750 to purchase the HPWC, other than aesthetic.

I could totally wrong, but that is what I think I understood

IMHO, Few electrical devices are used to their full potential and/or capacity and that is a good thing!!
With that, the HPWC (designed for 80 amps) is the most reliable and most safe way to charge the MS even when you are limited by the single charger in your car; at 40 amps or below.

That is, a hardwired device such as the HPWC which is UL Listed will most often be more reliable and less hazardous than any device connected by a plug/receptacle and given a Tesla will be most often charged: unattended - at your home - overnight, I will always opt for the robustness and a safety margin to reduce the possible hazards associated with frequent use.

So while the UMC may be a good device the plug adapters and residential receptacle will be the weak link.
Also, at 40 amps, the maximum current for the NEMA 14-50 plug/receptacle and the UMC, a non-NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab) device, are used to their design limit.

Therefore, I am saving my UMC for the occasional on the road charge and use the HPWC for the daily charge duties at my home.
For me the HPWC and installation cost is inexpensive when I consider piece of mind.

 

[chriSharek]

IMHO, Few electrical devices are used to their full potential and/or capacity and that is a good thing!!
With that, the HPWC (designed for 80 amps) is the most reliable and most safe way to charge the MS even when you are limited by the single charger in your car; at 40 amps or below.

That is, a hardwired device such as the HPWC which is UL Listed will most often be more reliable and less hazardous than any device connected by a plug/receptacle and given a Tesla will be most often charged: unattended - at your home - overnight, I will always opt for the robustness and a safety margin to reduce the possible hazards associated with frequent use.

So while the UMC may be a good device the plug adapters and residential receptacle will be the weak link.
Also, at 40 amps, the maximum current for the NEMA 14-50 plug/receptacle and the UMC, a non-NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab) device, are used to their design limit.

Therefore, I am saving my UMC for the occasional on the road charge and use the HPWC for the daily charge duties at my home.
For me the HPWC and installation cost is inexpensive when I consider piece of mind.

I couldn't agree more. cs

 

[Bugeater]

I would so love to see a Tesla adapter to allow me to plug into two NEMA 14-50 outlets and charge at 80 amps with my dual chargers! I'll even buy an extension cord to reach into two RV park outlets. Would something like that be possible?

 

[pgiralt]

I would so love to see a Tesla adapter to allow me to plug into two NEMA 14-50 outlets and charge at 80 amps with my dual chargers! I'll even buy an extension cord to reach into two RV park outlets. Would something like that be possible?

In theory, yes, it's possible, however you'd have to *really* know what you're doing to not get hurt or burn something down. There have been threads in the past about this:

Adapter to combine two 30A level2 into one 60A J1772 - faster charging - Page 2

Can an adapter be made to combine 2 x NEMA 14-50 into a single HPWC connector?

 

[hcsharp]

I would so love to see a Tesla adapter to allow me to plug into two NEMA 14-50 outlets and charge at 80 amps with my dual chargers! I'll even buy an extension cord to reach into two RV park outlets. Would something like that be possible?

Been there done that.
See this thread starting about post #12 where we discuss combining 2 NEMA 14-50 outlets to get 70 or 80A. A number of people built the devices, complete with the required safety breakers and switches to make sure you had the correct phases and didn't electrocute yourself while plugging the second plug in. It's not particularly safe overall but it has worked for a few people.
Adapter-to-combine-two-outlets-for-faster-charging

I won't admit that I ever used such a device, and if I did you couldn't prove it. Nope, not me... No-sir-eee...:wink: