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Mobile Connector vs. Wall Charger - Renting a House

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I was able to get a couple photos of the available outlets in the garage within reach of the car, but know nothing about electronics. I think these are a 120v 5-20 (plastic cover), and a 120v 5-15 GFCI (metal box)?

If I don't mind ultra-slow charging, and don't repeatedly plug/unplug from the socket, would one of these potentially work with a Mobile Connector without being a fire hazard? Or, is it impossible to say from a photo?


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I was able to get a couple photos of the available outlets in the garage within reach of the car, but know nothing about electronics. I think these are a 120v 5-20 (plastic cover), and a 120v 5-15 GFCI (metal box)?

If I don't mind ultra-slow charging, and don't repeatedly plug/unplug from the socket, would one of these potentially work with a Mobile Connector without being a fire hazard? Or, is it impossible to say from a photo?


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I would verify the size of the circuit breaker feeding the 5-20 to ensure it is a 20 amp circuit, and then try and determine what other receptacles, lights, or if any other devices are powered by this circuit. If it is a 20 amp circuit breaker, and any other receptacles, lights or devices are either not used or trivial (just a few watts like an LED light), then it would be OK to use that for 16 amp 120 volt charging using the 5-20 Tesla adapter cable for the Mobile Connector. I would consider replacing that 5-20 receptacle, which looks pretty old, with a new high quality receptacle, which would be a pretty easy job for people who are handy with a screw driver, just make sure all the connections are very tight.

FYI, code allows 5-15 duplex receptacles to be connected to 20 amp circuits, but a 5-20 should not be connected to a 15 amp circuit, so if everything is wired right, you should be OK. Also a 5-15 receptacle on a 20 amp circuit can be replaced with a 5-20.
 
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FYI, code allows 5-15 duplex receptacles to be connected to 20 amp circuits, but a 5-20 should not be connected to a 15 amp circuit, so if everything is wired right, you should be OK. Also a 5-15 receptacle on a 20 amp circuit can be replaced with a 5-20.

Verifying is smart, but since the 5-20 plug is required by code to be on a 20A circuit, they could just start using it with no further checks. If the house burns down, well, it's not their house!
 
I was able to get a couple photos of the available outlets in the garage within reach of the car, but know nothing about electronics. I think these are a 120v 5-20 (plastic cover), and a 120v 5-15 GFCI (metal box)?

If I don't mind ultra-slow charging, and don't repeatedly plug/unplug from the socket, would one of these potentially work with a Mobile Connector without being a fire hazard? Or, is it impossible to say from a photo?


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Yes, that first picture is a 5-20 outlet.

One thing no one has mentioned. Resist the urge to just let the UMC body dangle from the outlet/adapter. The UMC will slowly unplug itself from the adapter cord and eventually you'll be back at TMC asking why your UMC doesn't seem to charge anymore :)
 
OP, few more things you might want to think about:

Do you have time of day billing? Or if you don't would it benefit you? It depends on the amount of power you can use during off-peak compared with what you are using during on-peak hours.

Some utilities have significant differences between on- and off-peak rates. This is to give an incentive to people to shift their usage from peak hours to off-peak hours to even out the load on the utilities generation and distribution resources. You should check it out.

If you have such rates available and sign up for time of day billing, you would want to have your car charge during off-peak times as much as possible. Since the off-peak time period may be a fairly limited time frame you may need to charge more quickly than you can with 16 amps at 120 volts, which is only charging at a 1.92 kW. Depending on how much you drive, the car may be continuously charging on a 120 volt circuit.

In comparison, a 30 amp will allow charging at 24 amps which at 240 volts is 7.76 kW. You just multiply amps times volts to get the power in watts, and divide by 1,000 to get the power in kilowatts (kW). And you need to know that any EV circuit should only be used to 80% of its capacity because they are used continuously for long periods of time.

In such situations, the savings cost in electricity may pay for the cost of installing a 240 volt dedicated circuit, whether it is a dedicated 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60 amp circuit. The savings aspect of this makes no difference if it is a Tesla Wall Connector or a dedicated 240 volt receptacle using the Mobile Connector, but be aware the maximum charging rate from the Tesla Mobile Connector is 32 amps, and the maximum rate your M3 RWD can charge at is also 32 amps.

However, the installation cost can be different as has been noted by others above since most jurisdictions now require an expensive GFCI circuit breaker for 240 volt receptacles located in garages and laundry rooms, whilst the Wall Connector requires a standard breaker. Note that the electrical code requirement for a GFCI breaker for 240 volt receptacles in garages and laundry rooms is a fairly new thing and existing receptacles that were installed before this change in the electrical code may not be set up with GFCI breakers.

Since you say you know very little about "electronics", another thing you need to be aware of is that you might be limited in what you can do by the size of the electrical service in your home. In my area most homes built since the 1970's have 200 amp service and some have 150 amp service if they are smaller. Some larger homes have 400 amp (or greater) service. Other older homes can have 60 or 100 amp service. This is a general rule of thumb, there are always exceptions.

A 2,000 to 3,000 square foot home that has 200 amp service usually has no problem adding a 240 volt 50 or 60 amp circuit for an EV as long as the home has just the normal high power 240 volt appliances such as a dryer, range (or separate cooktop and oven), electric water heater, air conditioner or heat pump, etc., but the only way to know for sure is to do a load study, which any electrician can do. Even 150 amp service can usually handle a full power 240 volt EV circuit, but in this case doing a load study is even more important. Homes with 100 amp service usually need to cut back to 30 or even 20 amp (240 volt) EV circuits (depending on the results of a load study), but any 240 volt EV circuit is better than using a 120 volt EV circuit, especially if you have time of day billing or if you drive more than about 40 miles a day on average.

Some older homes that have never been updated still have only 60 amp service. Adding a 240 volt EV charging circuit to such homes is usually not possible unless everything in the home is gas and then it might be possible to add a 15 or 20 amp 240 volt EV circuit. Such circuits should only be installed after a careful evaluation of all the components of the homes electrical service wires and panel or fuse box, etc.

I enjoy writing about stuff like this and helping people who are new to EVs, which I was just about a year and a half ago. I know this is pretty long, but I hope the information will be helpful for you.
 
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In spirit of verifying, I'd take the time to use an outlet tester ($15 at the hardware store) and verify that the outlet is wired correctly. Get one that has a button to test GFCI. Just because an outlet isn't a GFCI outlet doesn't mean it isn't protected by a GFCI outlet in another location, so use the tester to trip the GFCI and be sure you know where the GFCI for that outlet is located, if there is one. If the plug seems loose in the outlet at all, I'd replace outlet with a new one.

Remove the cover plate and inspect the wiring inside to be sure nothing is loose and there's no signs of excess heat. I'd check again after using it to charge the car to make sure that the long, heavy current draw isn't causing anything to heat up.
 
I have a 2023 M3 RWD (no mobile connector included). I drive, on average, about 40 miles per day. We're about to move into a rental house for the next 12+ months. The owner saw my Tesla when he showed us the house and was intrigued by the idea of installing a wall charger in the garage. But, do I really need one?

I told him if he would pay to get it installed properly, I would buy the charger itself and he could just keep it there whenever we move out as selling point for his next tenants.

So, my options are:

1) Buy a Mobile Connector ($230) and use it until we own our own house. Then put up a wall charger at our own house and toss the mobile connector into the trunk for emergencies.

2) Buy a Wall Charger ($475). Faster charging, but I'm essentially gifting a nearly $500 item to his property once we move out some day (not complaining though...it's cool he's even willing to have this conversation).

I'm leaning towards the mobile connector. It's cheaper, I would own it my self, and it would be a good spare to keep in the trunk once I've got a real charger later on.

Anything I'm missing here? Seems like I don't drive enough to really warrant needing the wall charger.
The TMC, plugged into a NEMA 14-50 will max out the charging on the M3 RWD, since it's limited to 32A/240v anyways.

However, with only 40 miles/day driving you could use a TMC at the rental house and get the needed charge from:

A NEMA 5-15 = 12A x 120v = 5 miles/hr of charging

A NEMA 5-20 = 16A x 120v = 7 miles ""

A NEMA 6-20 = 16A x 240V = 15 miles ""

A NEMA 14-50 = 32A x 240v = ~30 miles ""
 
I suspect it's all been said, but here's my 2 cents.

First, note that DuncanM has pointed out that the M3 RWD can only charge up to 32A, so you gain no speed benefit from having the $500 wall charger. (Myw wall charger installation cost was $1350 by the way.)

It seems best to get the Mobile Charger here, and connect it to a 240v 14-50 outlet. Most houses don't already have one, but it could (possibly) be added at a fairly low expense, especially if located near the breaker box and not need conduit run across the garage. A 14-50 goes on a 50amp circuit, and your breaker box would need to have space for a new breaker. (Same with wall charger.) You set a charger to use 80% of the maximum amperage on the circuit, so you would get 40A out of a 14-50. Or put in a 40A breaker to the 14-50 and rate at 32A. Perfect for your car.

Of course a free-but-slow alternative is a 120v outlet charging your car at 4 miles/hour.

In between may be a nearly free solution, if your home was wired for an electric dryer. You may have a 14-30 (30amp) outlet in your garage. Or your laundry room, which hopefully is adjacent to the garage. I have one in my garage, and I bought a 14-30 to 14-50 adapter plug to use with it. This gives you 24A, and would be quite acceptable in my opinion.
 
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Since the off-peak time period may be a fairly limited time frame you may need to charge more quickly than you can with 16 amps at 120 volts, which is only charging at a 1.92 kW. Depending on how much you drive, the car may be continuously charging on a 120 volt circuit.

Thanks for bringing up this excellent point. We will have a time of use plan, but it had not yet occurred to me that trickle charging may very well be too slow to make full use of the off-peak hours.
 
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I suspect it's all been said, but here's my 2 cents.

First, note that DuncanM has pointed out that the M3 RWD can only charge up to 32A, so you gain no speed benefit from having the $500 wall charger. (Myw wall charger installation cost was $1350 by the way.)

It seems best to get the Mobile Charger here, and connect it to a 240v 14-50 outlet. Most houses don't already have one, but it could (possibly) be added at a fairly low expense, especially if located near the breaker box and not need conduit run across the garage. A 14-50 goes on a 50amp circuit, and your breaker box would need to have space for a new breaker. (Same with wall charger.) You set a charger to use 80% of the maximum amperage on the circuit, so you would get 40A out of a 14-50. Or put in a 40A breaker to the 14-50 and rate at 32A. Perfect for your car.

Of course a free-but-slow alternative is a 120v outlet charging your car at 4 miles/hour.

In between may be a nearly free solution, if your home was wired for an electric dryer. You may have a 14-30 (30amp) outlet in your garage. Or your laundry room, which hopefully is adjacent to the garage. I have one in my garage, and I bought a 14-30 to 14-50 adapter plug to use with it. This gives you 24A, and would be quite acceptable in my opinion.
If you use a dryer receptacle, it would be much better to use the correct Tesla 10-30 or 14-30 adapter (depending on the type of dryer receptacle you have) for the Tesla Mobile Connector and plug that directly into the dryer receptacle. If you use a 10-30 or 14-30 to 14-50 adapter, and connect the Tesla 14-50 TMC adapter to that, the car will try and charge at 32 amps and could overload your 30 amp dryer circuit, which should be only used for 24 amp charging. You should not rely on dialing down the amps to 24 in the car or app, which can forget that it has been dialed down. Much better to let the TMC tell the car the max amps it can charge at with the correct adapter for the Mobile Connector.
 
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Thanks for bringing up this excellent point. We will have a time of use plan, but it had not yet occurred to me that trickle charging may very well be too slow to make full use of the off-peak hours.
The NEMA 5-20 and a TMC with a 5-20 adapter cable will fully recharge ~40miles of driving in ~6 hours and you have to sleep sometime...

I know cause I installed a NEMA 5-20 outlet in our winter home garage and I used that outlet to charge my M3 for several months, until I got an electrician friend to install a NEMA 6-20 outlet, which cost me about $80 for parts (outlet, box, 25ft of 12-2 wire and a 20amp breaker) and a 6 pack of Guinness for labour...:)

I checked that my garage outlets had 12-2 wire and were fed with a 20amp breaker, so I swapped out the lead NEMA 5-15 outlet for a NEMA 5-20 which cost about $20.
 
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I have been using a Supercharger exclusively

Option 1: I buy a Universal Wall Connector. He pays for a qualified electrician to hardwire it into the garage.

Option 2: I buy a Mobile Connector which will remain my property. I'll reimburse him 100% for whatever he pays the electrician.

You kinda answered your own question here. Electricians charge way more than usual for "EV" stuff. Take the wall charger deal and enjoy!

The mobile charger is great if you routinely rent long-term cabins in the woods somewhere, but otherwise you'll probably never use it in its intended fashion. You'll want a wall charger in your next place too.

Yeah, you could plug in to 120V *every freakin' night* but between time of use plans and the significant overhead of running the computers for umteen hours of charging, you'd probably break even with a wall charger within a year or two and be much happier.
 
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I think the diversity of different ways to charge Teslae is really great. There are just so many ways to do it and as long as the electrical circuit is correctly installed for the intended use, they seem to work out well for most people. And as DuncanM says, it does not always have to be expensive.

A few mistakes you want to avoid:

Using #6 NM (a/k/a Romex) cable with a 60 amp circuit breaker (for 48 amp charging). #6 THHN/THWN in conduit is OK because it is rated for 65 amps, but #6 Romex is only rated for 55 amps, which when derated to 80% for continuous use will only handle 44 amps. #6 Romex should be on a 50 amp circuit breaker for 40 amp charging.

Installing a receptacle in the garage without using a GFCI receptacle or breaker.

Installing a Tesla Wall Connector on a circuit with a GFCI breaker.

Installing individual THHN/THWN wires inside a wall without any conduit.

Installing a NEMA 14-50 receptacle on the same circuit as a Tesla Wall Connector.

Using cheap 14-50 receptacles. They are OK for ranges and other non-continuous loads, but not for continuous loads like an EV charging circuit.

I have seen all these mistakes made multiple times on YouTube and discussed on this web site.
 
I appreciate everyone who took time to respond here. I'm just going to present the owner with the various information I've gathered, ask him to get 2-3 quotes for all the various options, and hopefully we can find a way to do this where we are both happy sharing the cost.

Simply moving into a house with a garage and escaping our apartment parking lot will drastically minimize my charging frequency because I'll finally feel comfortable turning off Sentry Mode at home.
 
The mobile charger is great if you routinely rent long-term cabins in the woods somewhere, but otherwise you'll probably never use it in its intended fashion. You'll want a wall charger in your next place too.
Not too long after I first got my MXP on June 30, 2022, I visited friends who live northeast of Orlando. I could make the trip from my house without supercharging, and arrived at their house with 7% state of charge. Little did I know, nor did I even think about, but the closest Supercharger was 30 minutes away. Not sure if I could have made it to the Supercharger at 7% SOC, but I had the Tesla Mobile Connector and various adapter cables in the frunk, and I charged overnight from his dryer outlet and had no worries the next day.

Of course that was a stupid newbie mistake which I won't make again, but having the Mobile Connector probably saved me from a big hassle that trip and I have kept it in the car ever since. I have used it several more times since then when visiting friends who live in the hinterlands mostly for convenience since they are so far from the closest Supercharger.
 
Using cheap 14-50 receptacles. They are OK for ranges and other non-continuous loads, but not for continuous loads like an EV charging circuit.
The 14-50 receptacles to avoid are the ones with half size steel contacts to the plug blades, which have lower conductivity (higher resistance and heat) than full size brass contacts. The Leviton 279-S00 is a common example of such.
 
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One other factor to consider. Go to the website of the power utility that provides electricity to the house you are renting. See if they are offering any rebates for the purchase and installation of an EVSE. When I bought my Tesla back in 2018, my power company gave me a $500 rebate towards the cost of an EVSE. But my utility required it to be a hard-wired EVSE. So installing a Nema 14-50 outlet was not eligible for the rebate.
 
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I appreciate everyone who took time to respond here. I'm just going to present the owner with the various information I've gathered, ask him to get 2-3 quotes for all the various options, and hopefully we can find a way to do this where we are both happy sharing the cost.

Simply moving into a house with a garage and escaping our apartment parking lot will drastically minimize my charging frequency because I'll finally feel comfortable turning off Sentry Mode at home.
Let us all know what you and the landlord decide to do.
 
I'm voting UMC and no install at all. 40 miles a day can be recovered in eight hours of charging on any standard 120V outlet.

Paying an electrician to install an outlet or HPWC will probably be far more expensive than you think even if the electrical panel is right there in the garage.
Me, too. I was just quoted nearly $2000 for the 50 amp circuit ($18 per foot), using a Tesla approved installer). That doesn’t include the wall charger. However, I just took a 45 mile drive, and it projected 13+ hours to re-charge using my standard 120v circuit. Is mine just slow?