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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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Enjoy them, mine are in the trash bin
 

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@MasterC17 I think it makes sense to do the next step of this Guide...

This thread and some content on this forum (a lot of which is made by you, btw) are golden. But it's scattered, hard to find. And this thread first post is too big, too many options, but some areas not covered at all and I have a feeling you've changed your mind about many things already and have no edit rights even.

Most people wouldn't go through all posts anyway and the easier we're going to do content - the more people are going to actually do it. More manufacturers will start doing mods for Tesla, more people will go racing Tesla, more superchargers will appear near tracks, more knowledge will be developed and, eventually, Tesla might make Tesla Motorsports. You know, like Germans or GM.

Release Model 3 RS - "Buy it and go beat it on the track as much as you want". Hire MPP or UPP or whoever experienced in that from Porsche and ask them to manage the RS line, build a racing community. Make Tesla mono classes and events. Tesla Motorsports parts catalog, merch, and so on.

If Tesla won't start doing it soon we might start losing amateur racing together with the loss of ICE cars.
But somebody has to start it somewhere. You did already a great job. I'd like to help you to push it a bit further.

My suggestions are:
  1. Ask TMC owners to make the Racing subforum and put a few dedicated moderators there.
  2. Split the build threads from The Guide in a dedicated subforum. Make rules of build threads and adjust if necessary.
  3. Allow build threads to have forever edit rights on a first post so they can keep them updated.
  4. Make sticky threads about different key parts (even if there are no options available like radiator kits) for racing with running voting for available options with prices that fit racing needs.
  5. Make the Guide as a bullet point list in sequence of parts importance, mark ~money it costs for parts and labor, add links to parts sticky threads, explain in short what will happen otherwise, and describe what is important to have in specs.
  6. Make sure Guide is up to date based on real-life experience.
  7. Make a sticky thread of what and why is not recommended or was found to have issues.
  8. Make a sticky thread about build thread rules and endless voting on a first page for best build threads. Or, honestly, add some programming to make it more organized.
Those are just examples. It can be improved. A lot can be learned and incorporated from other car forums.

The racing part is only starting here, but it will be growing and we can help to speed it up. I know it's not a lot of builders here, but we can start with something in a more organized way. I'm sure moderators would support reasonable management of the racing corner. I don't see anyone better than you to moderate this subforum (and assign additional subforum moderators).

What do you think?
 
@MasterC17 I think it makes sense to do the next step of this Guide...

This thread and some content on this forum (a lot of which is made by you, btw) are golden. But it's scattered, hard to find. And this thread first post is too big, too many options, but some areas not covered at all and I have a feeling you've changed your mind about many things already and have no edit rights even.

Most people wouldn't go through all posts anyway and the easier we're going to do content - the more people are going to actually do it. More manufacturers will start doing mods for Tesla, more people will go racing Tesla, more superchargers will appear near tracks, more knowledge will be developed and, eventually, Tesla might make Tesla Motorsports. You know, like Germans or GM.

Release Model 3 RS - "Buy it and go beat it on the track as much as you want". Hire MPP or UPP or whoever experienced in that from Porsche and ask them to manage the RS line, build a racing community. Make Tesla mono classes and events. Tesla Motorsports parts catalog, merch, and so on.

If Tesla won't start doing it soon we might start losing amateur racing together with the loss of ICE cars.
But somebody has to start it somewhere. You did already a great job. I'd like to help you to push it a bit further.

My suggestions are:
  1. Ask TMC owners to make the Racing subforum and put a few dedicated moderators there.
  2. Split the build threads from The Guide in a dedicated subforum. Make rules of build threads and adjust if necessary.
  3. Allow build threads to have forever edit rights on a first post so they can keep them updated.
  4. Make sticky threads about different key parts (even if there are no options available like radiator kits) for racing with running voting for available options with prices that fit racing needs.
  5. Make the Guide as a bullet point list in sequence of parts importance, mark ~money it costs for parts and labor, add links to parts sticky threads, explain in short what will happen otherwise, and describe what is important to have in specs.
  6. Make sure Guide is up to date based on real-life experience.
  7. Make a sticky thread of what and why is not recommended or was found to have issues.
  8. Make a sticky thread about build thread rules and endless voting on a first page for best build threads. Or, honestly, add some programming to make it more organized.
Those are just examples. It can be improved. A lot can be learned and incorporated from other car forums.

The racing part is only starting here, but it will be growing and we can help to speed it up. I know it's not a lot of builders here, but we can start with something in a more organized way. I'm sure moderators would support reasonable management of the racing corner. I don't see anyone better than you to moderate this subforum (and assign additional subforum moderators).

What do you think?

I completely agree that the information needs to be condensed and updated, and a lot has changed since I originally made the post. I would love for Tesla to seriously get into Motorsports, but I doubt that is a priority for them in the near future, so it is up to owners to do it.

The main goal of what I've been doing is to get more people into tracking EV's. Even if it isn't a Tesla (though I'll admit I have a soft spot), I think that this is the future of Motorsports and it's a great way to bring new people in, and old people back to the sport. The savings on consumables alone (pads, fuel, oil, etc) is massive. Once people realize that, I think they will be a lot more likely to get into a sport that has historically been economically unfeasible. Not that it is cheap, mind you, and I've put far more money into this effort that I ever could have imagined; but compared to a German ICE vehicle your saving significant amounts of money.

I actually just recently started working on something for the community. It was originally going to be focused on a single metric, but you are bringing great ideas to the table and I think I could expand on it. I will keep you guys in the loop. Considering we've been asking for a dedicated Track subforum for over a year and have not received it, I'm not entirely sure the TMC owners are very "into it". We're a small minority of owners right now, but I think that can change quickly.
 
To begin with, the Model 3 is a decent HPDE/Track Day car out of the box. However, there are some concerns if you are planning multiple events a year or participating competitively. There's also a lot of options for making your car faster. I wanted to create this guide to shed some light on the aftermarket options currently available and provide my feedback and experience.

To me, the first concern to address is the brakes. While not needed for a leisurely day out at the track, or your first event, they quickly become a weak-point if you are pushing it. That being said, I personally would not recommend BBK’s, as they are generally expensive and overkill. Regenerative braking in my experience does help with heat dissipation and brake component life significantly. A nice set of rotors, and (in particular) pads in combination with high performance brake fluid is more than suffice for most people. For Performance Model 3’s the stock rotors are enough if you don’t want to spend money on the upgraded rotors, and they are cheap to replace.

The next item to tackle is the Model 3’s lack of camber adjustment. Unless you are willing to buy tires every ~3 events, you will need to address the camber. Fortunately, we now have adjustable front upper control arms and rear upper control arms available to solve this problem. I have had decent tire wear running -3 degrees of camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear.

Once those items are addressed, the remaining is honestly optional and will depend on your budget and (if racing competitively) class. I’m not going to get into tires and wheels in this thread, considering there are just so many options, but I would recommend a set of dedicated wheels and 200TW tires. I personally went with the 18” APEX ARC-8’s for wheels and am currently running Federal 595RS-PRO tires. There's a great thread in this Forum discussing the many tire and wheel options available.

One point I want to make; while the stock suspension sits high and is a little soft, aftermarket coilovers will not make you drastically faster. I shaved about 2 seconds on a 3.27 mile course (VIR). To be frank, I was rather impressed with the well-balanced stock suspension. My point being you can run fast times on stock struts (i.e. you don’t have to spend thousands on coilovers).

I am going to list my final modifications in the post below this one to highlight why I went the route(s) I did.


Brake Pads:

Racing Brake: Racing Brake has two options for brake pad compounds, both being a street/track hybrid. The XT970 is more track-oriented and the XT910 is more street oriented.

XT910 (Street/Track Compound)

XT970 (Track Only Compound)


Unplugged Performance: UP has two different compounds available. I don’t have the particulars on pad characteristics, and personally I think there are better options available now but to each their own. I would be curios to get more information on them.

UP Street/Track Compound

UP Track Only Compound



Carbotech: A newcomer to the Model 3 game, I am excited to see this entry. Carbotech has a great reputation among fellow track geeks, and they are reasonably priced. I would suggest the RP2 compound for longevity sake.

All Compounds (Stock Sizes)


Brake Rotors:

Racing Brake: Racing Brake actually has tons of options available to the Model 3. I would contact them directly if you are looking for something specific, but they have a good reputation and their products are quality, albeit a hair on the expensive side.

Performance Front Rotors

Base Front Rotors (w/ Pads)

Base Front Rotors (BBK Upgrade Kit)

Performance Rear Rotors

Base Rear Rotors (w/ Pads)

Mountain Pass Performance (Made by GiroDisc): GiroDisc is a well-respected manufacturer of aftermarket brake components, and these rotors are both well designed and relatively affordable. Like all MPP products, expect easy, bolt-on installation.

Performance Front Rotors

Base Front Rotors (BBK Upgrade Kit)

Performance Rear Rotors

Base Rear Rotors


Brake Fluid:

Motul RBF600: My go-to brake fluid; this should only need to be flushed every 6 months and is affordable.

Castrol SRF: If you really want to ball-out and don’t plan on changing the calipers anytime soon Castrol SRF is the pinnacle of brake fluid. This should only need to be flushed once a year.


Brake Lines:

MPP Page Mill Stainless Steel Brake Lines: Affordable, quality components.

UP Stainless Steel Brake Lines: A bit more money, should offer similar performance to MPP.


Front Adjustable Upper Control Arms:

MPP Corkscrew Model 3 Front Upper Control Arms: These are the only arms available “in the wild” and they look great. Reasonably priced, allow for tons of adjustment, these are definitely my go-to for right now.

UP Billet Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms (Release Date TBD)

SPL Front Upper Control Arms (Release Date TBD)


Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arms:

MPP Rear Camber Arms: A good, stock-feel replacement. Well-designed and easy adjustment.

UP Rear Camber Arms (Release Date TBD)

SPL Rear Camber Arms: A good, stiffer bushing replacement option. Also well-designed, also easy to adjust. Will likely wear quicker than the MPP in favor of performance.


Sway Bars:

UP Sway Bars: Affordable, easy to install, tons of adjustment, great option.

Eibach Sway Bars: Well-respected name in the industry. Assume they will be comparable to the UP’s but currently not available.

Whiteline End Links: These are not necessary, but for the ultimate in corner balancing and adjustment you can add some adjustable end links. The Fronts are KLC180-295’s and the Rears are KLC102’s.


Coilovers:

MCS:

Motion Control Suspension Dampers (Several Options): If you are racing competitively, these are simply your premier option. MCS is a well-respected, US-based company who manufacturers some of the best dampers in Motorsports. However, these are not as street-friendly as other options may be. They have solid bushings (no rubber), so expect some additional NVH.


Unplugged Performance (Ohlin’s): UP uses Ohlin’s components for their coilover kits. Ohlin’s has a reputation for manufacturing nice dual-purpose dampers. There is a thread on this forum comparing MPP and UP Coilovers. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

Basic Coilover Kit (AWD or RWD)

“Pro” Coilover Kit (AWD or RWD)


Mountain Pass Performance (KW): MPP partnered with KW to develop their coilover kits. My understanding is that the “Comfort” Coilovers are comparable to KW V1/V2 and the “Sports” is more like a V2/V3. The Sports coilovers have compression and rebound adjustment, and would be the favored option for people tracking their Model 3 (compared to the Comfort with no adjustment). These are an easy installation, no-hassle option I would recommend.

Comfort or Sports AWD Coilovers

Comfort or Sports RWD Coilovers


Aerodynamics:

Unplugged Performance: I would consider UP really the only competitor in this game right now as they are the only company with data to back up their claims. Nonchalantly slapping spoilers, lips, etc on the car without any research is not a good strategy. If you own a Non-PUP 3 this stock rear spoiler is a good option to increase downforce and increase efficiency. I really feel no need to put a big wing and giant canards on the car. It is quite heavy and I haven’t felt it get floaty or loose at high speeds.

UP Front Lip Spoiler: I put one on my car and one on my wife’s car. It will need to be painted for that ‘finished’ look but I did find efficiency improvements in my testing, backing up UP’s claims.

UP High Downforce Trunk Spoiler: I have two on order but have yet to receive one. These should be shipping soon and they look like they will work nicely but I can’t comment on it beyond that at this point.


Miscellaneous:

Schroth: I wanted to mention that the Schroth BMW E90 Quick-Fit Harness does work in the Model 3. Shout-out to our fellow forum members for figuring this out. I have been happy with mine. It keeps me tight in the seat and allows me to use my HANS. Given the lack of bolstering on the Model 3 seat this is a great solution.
 
I completely agree that the information needs to be condensed and updated, and a lot has changed since I originally made the post. I would love for Tesla to seriously get into Motorsports, but I doubt that is a priority for them in the near future, so it is up to owners to do it.

The main goal of what I've been doing is to get more people into tracking EV's. Even if it isn't a Tesla (though I'll admit I have a soft spot), I think that this is the future of Motorsports and it's a great way to bring new people in, and old people back to the sport. The savings on consumables alone (pads, fuel, oil, etc) is massive. Once people realize that, I think they will be a lot more likely to get into a sport that has historically been economically unfeasible. Not that it is cheap, mind you, and I've put far more money into this effort that I ever could have imagined; but compared to a German ICE vehicle your saving significant amounts of money.

I actually just recently started working on something for the community. It was originally going to be focused on a single metric, but you are bringing great ideas to the table and I think I could expand on it. I will keep you guys in the loop. Considering we've been asking for a dedicated Track subforum for over a year and have not received it, I'm not entirely sure the TMC owners are very "into it". We're a small minority of owners right now, but I think that can change quickly.
 
Everyone thinks you need to mod the vehicle to make it track worthy. Honestly all you need is to bleed you brakes, change your brake pads and ensure you have good tires on it to have a lot of fun. If you want to go fast, buy tires first. I put camber arms on my car, I ended up going backward as the car is doing things that I don't want it to do. I don't blame the camber arm for setting me back, but track tuning is difficult, especially when you have the constrain that we do in EV cars.

I took a basically stock car and put down 1:41 at Laguna, 1:54 at Sonoma and 2:01 at Buttonwillow. I am sure better drivers can go faster, but that is still a very respectable time for a 4 door sedan on street tires.
 
Everyone thinks you need to mod the vehicle to make it track worthy. Honestly all you need is to bleed you brakes, change your brake pads and ensure you have good tires on it to have a lot of fun. If you want to go fast, buy tires first. I put camber arms on my car, I ended up going backward as the car is doing things that I don't want it to do. I don't blame the camber arm for setting me back, but track tuning is difficult, especially when you have the constrain that we do in EV cars.

I took a basically stock car and put down 1:41 at Laguna, 1:54 at Sonoma and 2:01 at Buttonwillow. I am sure better drivers can go faster, but that is still a very respectable time for a 4 door sedan on street tires.

I am right there with you this car is amazing, I put down a 1.47 last week at Laguna, and my fastest laps were when the car was power limiting and I wasn't trying too hard. I am still basically stock for a couple more weeks, but at 55k the stock suspension is certainly moving a bit more.

The only mods so far are UP pads, and Castrol SRF, along with the 275/35-18 Federal RSR street tires. That was my second outing to Laguna ever. These cars are really really fast out of the box, once you put proper brakes and shoes on them.

I just made an appointment for a couple weeks from now at the Driveway. I am going with MPP Sport Coilovers, upper camber arms, and lower control arm bushings.
 
13 pages to be thankful for!

What are other folks running for alignment settings? I wanted to have a setup where I could add in a couple degrees of negative camber at the track with the MPP upper control arms, but maybe its not really worth it?

Do others with the MPP control arms pull them out and put them in for track days? If you do adjust them, do you also adjust the toe?
 
I am right there with you this car is amazing, I put down a 1.47 last week at Laguna, and my fastest laps were when the car was power limiting and I wasn't trying too hard. I am still basically stock for a couple more weeks, but at 55k the stock suspension is certainly moving a bit more.

The only mods so far are UP pads, and Castrol SRF, along with the 275/35-18 Federal RSR street tires. That was my second outing to Laguna ever. These cars are really really fast out of the box, once you put proper brakes and shoes on them.

I just made an appointment for a couple weeks from now at the Driveway. I am going with MPP Sport Coilovers, upper camber arms, and lower control arm bushings.

Just get more experience, a few of us run below 44s. When I did 41 I was stock, I ran slower with the front camber arm and I ran even slower with lesser tires. You can run in the high 40s in reduced power mode, most cars cant even do that at full speed!
 
13 pages to be thankful for!

What are other folks running for alignment settings? I wanted to have a setup where I could add in a couple degrees of negative camber at the track with the MPP upper control arms, but maybe its not really worth it?

Do others with the MPP control arms pull them out and put them in for track days? If you do adjust them, do you also adjust the toe?

Camber changes have a big effect on toe angles. If you removed all the shims at the track and didn't adjust the tie rods your front toe would be at least -2.00* and you'll ruin your tires!
 
Exactly why I wanted to talk with the folks here about them. I had planned to run between about -2 and -3 on street vs track.

Was considering aligning it at about the -2 degree camber mark if that allowed me to not change the toe much for track days.

Trying to find a good balance between performance and how much setup I would need to do each track event for my daily driver.

With the stiffer suspension there should be less body roll. Are others With MPP sport coilovers and upper camber arms running the max camber the plates will allow?