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Major problem while driving - 20 days out of warranty. Power shut down, won't turn on.

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Could it be just the cheaper 12V battery and not the main battery?

I can't speak to that - They want me to have it towed to Memphis (3 hours away). If it's just that battery then great. But the car was VERY unhappy. The car stayed on for about 15 min but once it shut down, no getting it back on. Does a 12v failure act like that? The drive system completely shut down - no more go go. Thanks!
 
I can't speak to that - They want me to have it towed to Memphis (3 hours away). If it's just that battery then great. But the car was VERY unhappy. The car stayed on for about 15 min but once it shut down, no getting it back on. Does a 12v failure act like that? The drive system completely shut down - no more go go. Thanks!

You know it's a 12V battery when the accessories are weak or non-existent such as the volume of a dying horn, dimmed headlights, dimmed cabin lights, screens are blacked out. You might want to get a voltmeter to plug in your cigarette lighter next time to see whether the 12V still holds enough voltage.


Second question - has anyone had any luck getting major things covered this close out of warranty?

If you want to ask if you can pay for the ESA (Extended Service Agreement--"extended 'warranty'"

"What is the eligible purchase period for Tesla Extended Service Agreements, and what do they cover?
You may purchase the Extended Service Agreement no later than 30 days or 1,000 miles past the expiration of your New Vehicle Limited Warranty."
 
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You know it's a 12V battery when the accessories are weak or non-existent such as the volume of a dying horn, dimmed headlights, dimmed cabin lights, screens are blacked out. You might want to get a voltmeter to plug in your cigarette lighter next time to see whether the 12V still holds enough voltage.




If you want to ask if you can pay for the ESA (Extended Service Agreement--"extended 'warranty'"

"What is the eligible purchase period for Tesla Extended Service Agreements, and what do they cover?
You may purchase the Extended Service Agreement no later than 30 days or 1,000 miles past the expiration of your New Vehicle Limited Warranty."

The ESA doesn't cover the battery unfortunately.

I can't find my voltmeter but I can tell that the 12v battery is low by testing an accessory plugged into the lighter. I jumped the car through the terminals in the front and it came online when I pressed the brake. Still has a few errors such as:

"Voltage supply too low"
"Electrical system power reduced - Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly"

It may be worth noting that I had my battery contactors replaced under warranty in August. I read that if water gets in the battery that can cause issues. Could they have made a mistake during reinstallation to cause this?

Thanks!

GT
 
I can't speak to that - They want me to have it towed to Memphis (3 hours away). If it's just that battery then great. But the car was VERY unhappy. The car stayed on for about 15 min but once it shut down, no getting it back on. Does a 12v failure act like that? The drive system completely shut down - no more go go. Thanks!
You could search Youtube for how to jump start your 12V battery. That will help you determine if the cost is equal to 12V by ruling out 12V has the problem. Some year cars are easier to get to the terminals than others. So, I;m not going to explain how to do it.
 
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The 12v battery is currently showing 11.7 volts. I have it on the charger and it seems to be taking a charge.

I'd love for it to be the 12v battery but no way would it just shut down and have to be towed b/c it was 11.7 volts right? I'm guessing it's low because the main batteries haven't been keeping it charged since the error yesterday?

Does anyone have any experience with Tesla covering large items like the HV batteries very close to outside of the warranty?

Thanks!
 
The 12 volt battery is actually supposed to be 14 volts. So 11 is quite low. I don't know where the cutoff for Tesla is though. I would tend to agree with you that 11 volts should be okay. Best thing is to keep charging it and if it charges up all the way, and your car still does not work, you can try reboot but I think you are correct. The HV battery may be toast. Sure hope not!

My car has nearly 240,000 miles on it, and still the original battery. I have unlimited miles but 8 years, that is to say about a year and a half. Sure hope it goes before then!
 
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I haven't done that. But, I'd have to drag it (literally) to my charger. It won't even come out of park.
It sure sounds like the 12v battery is dead. Here how to get the car in neutral with a dead battery


Then you need to get the car on charge, the main battery is most likely at 0% SOC.
 
It sure sounds like the 12v battery is dead. Here how to get the car in neutral with a dead battery


Then you need to get the car on charge, the main battery is most likely at 0% SOC.
The displays are turning on now. It's showing the main battery at 98 miles. I'll go put it in tow mode... not sure if I should put it on the charger. I'm waiting to see what the service center has to say.
 
The displays are turning on now. It's showing the main battery at 98 miles. I'll go put it in tow mode... not sure if I should put it on the charger. I'm waiting to see what the service center has to say.

There's no reason not to connect it to a charger. I'm assuming you mean a charger for the high voltage battery. If it won't work, the charger won't turn on. It requires bidirectional communication. If the battery management system reports an error, it won't charge. So, I'd give it a shot!
 
There's no reason not to connect it to a charger. I'm assuming you mean a charger for the high voltage battery. If it won't work, the charger won't turn on. It requires bidirectional communication. If the battery management system reports an error, it won't charge. So, I'd give it a shot!

Got it into tow mode and was going to try it but the charger port won't unlock. The door opens but the lock is preventing it from accepting the cable. Good times. :)