In my limited experience this is somewhat what I was told. I have been keeping the car at 60% for exactly these reasons but if its that much of a sacrifice in performance would you do it? With knowing for sure you wont be owning the car out of warranty?You just opened up a can of worms on the whole battery degradation discussion
There is actually a huge thread on the Batteries & Charging subforum (Model 3) that discusses the optimum SoC to reduce degradation. Lots of scientific articles and lab tests conducted so I encourage you to go to that subforum and peruse. Seems like most lab tests center around 55% SoC as a good line in the sand that reduces battery degradation while giving you good daily range (at the cost of performance of course).
I'll let you make your own judgements by exploring that subforum.
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Looking for insight with M3P driving characteristics
- Thread starter gsxracer0783
- Start date
At 55% vs 80%, you are looking at a -3.5s vs 3.2s to 60 between those two charge levels. About a 0.5s in the quarter mile. I don’t really notice the difference as I still smoke most cars doing a slow 3.5s to 60.
You’ll realize after awhile that the M3P is silly fast at almost any SoC.
We regularly do 100-5% or less. When it was a daily driver it got 90-95% charges almost daily, plus at least 3 deeeeep supercharges a week. Car was driven on track for a little over 600hrs this year, DCFC between sessions. With most events it’s 4-5 dcfc a day, arriving at 10% or less and charging to 95-97%. Have owned since 680miles and currently has near 80k miles on it.
Battery health test shows 89%. I’m fine with those numbers, outside of warranty a pack from a wrecked 3 is ~7k$. Almost 1/3 the cost of our prior track vehicle’s replacement motor.
We plan on running this thing into the ground and if the chassis dies, it’ll be rebodied into a “new” shell.
1/3 the cost of the prior track vehicle being a ICE vehicle motor? This is the other thing is I have been in pretty powerful vehicles my whole life. And modified superbikes. My last fun car was a 700whp modified ZR1. Most of my other cars were always over 500whp. The ZR1 was well under 3 second 0-60 and would pull hard past 150mph. I personally never needed to go that fast and the car was sub 100mph fun for me. Thats where the Tesla seemed to make sense as taking the place of 2 cars one being the commuter and the other my fun car. Still have alot to learn about these cars in a performance aspect but the bar is maybe set a bit higher for me in the performance category at least.
50% is even better. The data shows a degradation curve starting at about 56%.
I keep my LR with Acceleration boost charged to 50%, and it still accelerates very fast... and it did without boost as well. It's definitely faster at a high state of charge and with a warm battery, and there was also a noticeable improvement with acceleration boost, but even before boost and cold at 50%, it's always been a rocket.
Perhaps it's just subjective experience, but coming from a Bolt, a cold M3P should feel like light speed.
Given your stated information and goals, (and desire for performance), I wouldnt worry at all about battery degradation, hovering at 60% etc, I would just charge to 80-90% and enjoy the car. Most of that stuff is for people who either love min maxing it, or have a stated goal of "gonna drive this thing till the wheels fall off".
Whether your car has an extra 10-15 miles of range available to it a year or two from now, wont likely matter at all for your enjoyment of the car during that time. Its not like charging it to 80 - 90% is going to make the car have 70 less miles or something. Just charge it up and enjoy it, and dump it when you planned to, or not.
"I want to maximize the battery to the nth degree" and "I bought a performance car and want the performance out of it available when I want" are somewhat opposed desires. There isnt any reason to charge to only 50-60% if you are not planning on hanging onto the car "forever".
I said this in another thread, where someone was complaining about state of charge vs battery. I said the same thing as I said above, and said:
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"I equate this to me buying premium gas and only driving my BMWs around in sport mode, because I liked the throttle mapping in sport mode. Of course, I got less gas mileage, but that was a trade off I was aware I was making, and willing to make.
No different here. Charge the car to a higher percentage and enjoy the performance, and know that over time, you might lose a few more total miles than someone who min maxes, but given the fast charging network, those few missing extra miles are unlikely to matter"
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
Dude, crank it up and F’n send it. You’ll see where it’s at.
I did some experimenting today and did all of our driving with a supercharger loaded into navigation so the battery was warming up. Started out with the same charge for comparison but I never grabbed the USB drive to log any data. I can say though after it heating the battery the car did feel quicker off the line. I only did the supercharger warming procedure for about 20 mins on our way across town and the car felt faster all day. How long does it take for the battery to cool down after being warmed up?
Biggest difference I noticed is my wh/mi has went way down. It was hard to get the car under 300 before and ever since I did the 0-60 runs and the battery warming via route to supercharger today, the car has been in the high 230s, low 240s. Is a warmer battery that much more efficient? Seems like a pretty drastic change to where with that much lower energy usage why would you not heat with the route to supercharger method every time you start your drive?
Biggest difference I noticed is my wh/mi has went way down. It was hard to get the car under 300 before and ever since I did the 0-60 runs and the battery warming via route to supercharger today, the car has been in the high 230s, low 240s. Is a warmer battery that much more efficient? Seems like a pretty drastic change to where with that much lower energy usage why would you not heat with the route to supercharger method every time you start your drive?
E90alex
Active Member
Supercharger preconditioning will use up more power than just driving normally because it heats the battery to much higher temp than normal. It’s not something you need to or should be doing unless you’re actually going to supercharge.
If you're making a lot of short trips, you'll waste a lot more energy this way. Even one or two stops on a short drive - you'll probably use more energy heating up the battery than you'll lose through the inefficiency of driving with a cold battery.
On a longer drive, preconditioning off of A/C before you leave (via scheduled departure) is definitely the way to go.
I watched some videos on it and understand that. Was seeing people do it to get more power out of the car so I tried it just to observe the differences. Car has been faster all day even still. The big difference is the efficiency of the car in wh/mi being down in the 230s now when I barely ever got to 290s before. So something changed in that regard.
We always precondition off our 48amp 220v charger for a good 20 mins now that its cold
E90alex
Active Member
But what was the efficiency and energy used during the supercharger preconditioning? There is no free energy to be had.
Lindenwood
Active Member
I don’t think he is asserting any magic bullets.
I believe he is simply trying to understand how pre-heating the battery seems to have reduced his reported consumption by 20%, when the opposite is more intuitive.
Yeah I was just surprised that spending the extra energy beforehand saved that much while driving. I'm just glad the car woke up that much more from being warmed up. I don't have a reason to pay for supercharging unless I head way out of town so I think I will let the car precondition more and see how that does vs the navigate to supercharger trick.
Just enjoy and car and charge to 80%, nothing lasts forever. You’re probably babying it for the next owner unless you plan to keep it for 10 years.
Yep. A few different C6z’s.
The Model 3 has a massive warranty on the pack/DUs, why not use the vehicle to the max that it was designed for and welcome that new pack into your life before warranty goes?
Exactly. Replace that pack under warranty, if it’s anything like S/X, time not mileage should be the largest concern.
This plot is great. The one thing I don’t understand is why the battery cell temps are lower for the LR AWD Boost (25 deg C) than for either the P (40 deg C) or the LR AWD unboosted (33 deg C)? Does that difference have any impact?
Every other confounder seems to have been properly controlled, which is great.
Lindenwood
Active Member
25 to 40C is a decent impact, but doesn’t quite make up the displayed difference. More pointedly, as shown, the LR is artificially limited in peak HP so a hotter battery wouldn’t really help much until triple-digit speeds where they are probably pretty close in the grand scheme.
