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It could have been the posi-tap too. I've heard that sometimes it doesn't puncture exactly the way we want.
That is what I was waiting for.:smile:Success! I have installed the T to both DRL's and the headlights. Now, they are on most of the time, including when I exit the car so that I get some personal enjoyment, and fully automated so that I have no need to do anything.
First, I picked up a package of Diodes from Amazon here.
I then soldered some small strips of wire to each end of the diode as in this pic (make two of these, and don't make fun of my soldering please):
I then took these two setups, and crimp connected them together on the power side (end of the diode with the silver strip). Next, I sealed the diode/soldered sections with shrink tubing. I placed crimp connectors on the other(power receiving) ends. My crimps don't match together well, as I ran out of one type and had to switch. Using the Posi-locks, I have one wire going from the DRL lead, and one from the headlight lead. If I decide I only want one or the either in the future, I simply unplug the one I don't want:
Thanks for getting that put up! Hopefully I will be able to find time to get this done as I'm sure the video will improve my confidence.Thanks to fireLT, who shot the video, and cgiGuy, who edited it, we now have an installation video. This is for the Ozniun controller but the steps are basically the same for power from the headlights or DRL's expect for the 12 and ground connections to the T and arch. These are in the online instructions, link in my signature.
I should be able to wire the LED indicator out of the automotive relay so it will truly mirror the state of the lighted T, right?
Yes, in fact the original written instructions mention: "A LED is wired in parallel with the output of the Ozium controller, a resistor is added to the circuit..." Which means you should be able to wire in parallel right from your switch.
Would you mind sharing part # of the switch you used? And source? I think a lot of us are interested in having the Oznium controller and the "wired to the headlights/DRLs" solution to retain the state it was in.
Anyone know if the waterproof Oznium controller is available yet?
artsci, I noticed something in your installation video that you might want to caution folks on. In the video, you show installing the tap a fuse and installing the fuse, then later stripping the other end of the wire and terminating it. I can see folks inadvertently shorting that end out to a ground and blowing the fuse accidentally. I'd recommend folks finish the install, then put the fuse in at the end just to be on the safe side. Worst-case you just blow a fuse and have to replace it, so no big deal, but still might cause some frustration if someone tries to start it up and it doesn't work because they accidentally blew the fuse and didn't notice.
Success! I have installed the T to both DRL's and the headlights. Now, they are on most of the time, including when I exit the car so that I get some personal enjoyment, and fully automated so that I have no need to do anything.
First, I picked up a package of Diodes from Amazon here.
I then soldered some small strips of wire to each end of the diode as in this pic (make two of these, and don't make fun of my soldering please):
View attachment 45566
I then took these two setups, and crimp connected them together on the power side (end of the diode with the silver strip). Next, I sealed the diode/soldered sections with shrink tubing. I placed crimp connectors on the other(power receiving) ends. My crimps don't match together well, as I ran out of one type and had to switch. Using the Posi-locks, I have one wire going from the DRL lead, and one from the headlight lead. If I decide I only want one or the either in the future, I simply unplug the one I don't want:
View attachment 45567
The ring indicates the cathode end of the diode. Current flows through the diode if the anode side is (+) and cathode is (-). Reverse polarity blocks the current. So for the LED application isolating multiple potential feeds, the anode side needs to be connected to the feeding wire, i.e. each lighting wire, and the cathodes of all diodes need to be connected together and feed the LED T (+) 12V lead.
The ring indicates the cathode end of the diode. Current flows through the diode if the anode side is (+) and cathode is (-). Reverse polarity blocks the current. So for the LED application isolating multiple potential feeds, the anode side needs to be connected to the feeding wire, i.e. each lighting wire, and the cathodes of all diodes need to be connected together and feed the LED T (+) 12V lead.