Why not, it could be a double sided connector. Use one side for the old cars and the other side for the newer cars.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Why not, it could be a double sided connector. Use one side for the old cars and the other side for the newer cars.
That's certainly possibly Andy the connectors were very close in layout. Seems an awful waste of effort though, designing a new universal connector then resupplying all the service centers with them, all for virtually no practical gain.
Maybe it's the result of a technical purist approach rather than a hard nosed business pragmatist thing? Maybe these new connectors are $0.05 cheaper from the supplier? Heck Tesla could have employed a new VP of diagnostic connectors and he/she wanted to stamp their mark?
It is odd though as the connector was the same as the Roadster, so they've stuck with it historically.
- - - Updated - - -
That could work, though I was thinking a connector to DB9 lead for each style.... not seen an official Tesla diagnostics tester though.
I can ask one of the guys who turned up to take a day light shot if it helps (it was pretty difficult to take a phone shot in a dark car park no matter how many phone flashlights we used
)Thing is if they've changed it physically, then good chance they've changed it electrically too. I'm 100% certain none of the guys involved would subject their cars to me playing a game of guess the pin layout
I can ask one of the guys who turned up to take a day light shot if it helps (it was pretty difficult to take a phone shot in a dark car park no matter how many phone flashlights we used
It would. Perhaps something with a ruler next to the connector so we can get an idea of size.
I double checked with TE, and don't see any end-of-life or anything like that on the old connector, so it is strange they would change. Are you 100% certain that this isn't an _extra_ connector and the old one is not tucked away in there somewhere?
Not 100% but close to it. It was exactly where my connector was, and despite putting my hand in and the slightly sharp metals back there couldn't feel anything else. It is feasible they have relocated somewhere completely different I guess.
I didn't pull any of the cubbies other than my own (liability fears
) but all came out as expected and were easy to replace BUT none of the cars have the premium consoles. There would be some logic to moving it I guess in light of this. So it very well be just another connector in the same place whose purpose is yet to be determined, and the diag port is somewhere completely different.
The Model X appears to use the same connector with a few more wires. I suspect they went with the new connector for the X, and when they redesigned the 12v system in the S (around September of 2015) they put the X-style connector in there too to make it simpler (one connector across the fleet). There is probably an adapter to go to the "old" style.
Looking at my documentation it seems like they changed the connector reference starting with the 2015 Tesla's (both RHD and LHD), prior to that the connector was referenced as X437, now it's X437A I don't have a new copy of the connector reference but I bet those who do could probably give an exact model/part number for the connector (every single one in the car is specified with a picture and part #), interesting that they have decided to change up the interface, including the pinouts (though that may be a side effect of adding more pins), if only I had a Model X to experiment on, any takers in New England?
@Ingineer
Can you get access to the Model X service manuals yet? when I tried just a week or two ago it said I wasn't authorized (even though I had a paid account and could get MS and Roadster details)
@Ingineer
Can you get access to the Model X service manuals yet? when I tried just a week or two ago it said I wasn't authorized (even though I had a paid account and could get MS and Roadster details)
I see, it's just that you spoke with authority about the MX diagnostic connector so I thought you had some inside knowledge, do you have access to a real life MX (a pretty rare object at the moment) that you are tinkering with?
Turbo3
Member
Here is a picture of a couple of cables I just made up (using the "old" Tesla connectors I now see from this thread).
I am wondering if the flat cable version would allow the cubby to be put back in place with the flat cable coming out above the cubby. Can someone measure the depth of the cubby? How many inches is it? Of course this is only for those who have the connector located behind the cubby which might also be the ones using the "old" connector.
I am wondering if the flat cable version would allow the cubby to be put back in place with the flat cable coming out above the cubby. Can someone measure the depth of the cubby? How many inches is it? Of course this is only for those who have the connector located behind the cubby which might also be the ones using the "old" connector.
You must be kidding, I just saw that cable on amazon and thought the exact thing to myself, as for the measurements what do you mean by depth? There should be more than enough space for the TDC end of the cable, whether the metal clips will accommodate the thickness of the cable is another story, do you have thickness measurements for the cable?
Related note, can I join the beta for TM-Spy? My primary device is an iPhone but I could pick up a cheap android tablet for testing purposes, I can also try out the new cable design. You can email me at my username + me.com
llavalle
Member
Don't forget that people who have the center console (like myself) have the cable rerouted to the passenger's left kick panel. AKA right trim panel of the yacht floor.
Turbo3
Member
The cable must be on top of the cubby so it must reach from the back of the cubby where the Tesla connector is to the front edge of the cubby where you can then attach the ELM. The cable is 0.04" thick.
I sent you the link to get TM-Spy.
I sent you the link to get TM-Spy.
unreliantrobin
Member
Had a 3rd attempt, this time a November delivered 90D, again same thing
So despite my best efforts to get some logs from a fairly exhaustive set (70S 90S and 90D) all have failed. Might be a RHD difference ?.
Along with the different blue connector, there was also a small white connector:
View attachment 112428
I think this looks like the Mate for that
12741NYA20F-L Sumitomo 6098-5629 / 0.64II/1.5 Unsealed 20 Position Female Housing [Blue] | The Plug Dealer LLC
Here is a better side by side shot:
Blue one is the socket on a 90, black one is the plug on my EVTV box.
Blue one is the socket on a 90, black one is the plug on my EVTV box.
garygid
Member
Turbo3
Member
It looks like there are only a few pins in the blue socket. Can you count how many? Is it possible to get a close-up of just the pins so we can see where they are located?
