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Installing Separate Meter for my Tesla - Please Inspect before inspection fails

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Thanks again, I think both ways are okay in our area as my parents house is also near by in the same city and we have the same power company (DTE) and in their case the ground is connected to the main meter pan. Parents house was built in 2005 and mine in 2002. Now I am thinking of pulling the ground wire connected to the main breaker panel and just connected it to the main meter so that i dont have to dig to get to the rod.

Big caution for you - remember that the top half of the meter socket is live when the meter is pulled and you'll be working very, very closely to it. If you're going to do the work, be sure you're wearing proper protective equipment and using properly insulated tools.
 
Big caution for you - remember that the top half of the meter socket is live when the meter is pulled and you'll be working very, very closely to it. If you're going to do the work, be sure you're wearing proper protective equipment and using properly insulated tools.

Yep. You don't want to be this guy:

electrocuted.gif
 
LOL. That is the scary part. I asked the DTE person if they could connect the wires for me (when she came to remove the lock) and she said that she would have if the wires were already strip and were cut to the proper size but they arent so she wont do it.

I will be the one watching my cousin do the work. I'll have a 2x4 handy in case i need to knock him out.
 
... Homes and apartments are insured against loss. Sometimes electricity makes things start on fire. Insurance covers the damage when this happens.
Unless the homeowner wired something. ...
Getting a permit and having the work inspected is the legal shield against this sort of thing pretty much everywhere. Even using an electrician isn't enough if the work isn't properly permitted and inspected. Some localities require a licensed electrician, but many (most?) allow homeowners to do the work as long as they conform to the permitting process.

That's why it really chaps my hide when I see handymen doing this kind of work and telling homeowners that permitting is "waste of money" or "isn't necessary" when for almost all electrical work that isn't a simple replacement of an outlet or installation of a fixture, it is very necessary, and is generally the homeowner's only real protection from shoddy work. We sometimes get posters on here with the same attitude...luckily we also have a knowledgable stable of members to set them straight.
 
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Finally got hold of the inspector, He said 5 feet is too far, ev breaker should be just behind ev meter. He said I will need a fuse disconnect beside the new meter.

...and that changes your grounding plan, too. Because that "fuse disconnect" (it doesn't have to be a fuse, btw, it can be a breaker too) now becomes your service disconnect, you ground to that disconnect, and your EV panel becomes a subpanel. Your run from the EV subpanel to the service disconnect must be 4-wire, keeping ground and neutral separate. Your use of SE cable now limits that to 90A (AL #2), since the wiring from EV panel to service disconnect is now under NEC jurisdiction.
 
...and that changes your grounding plan, too. Because that "fuse disconnect" (it doesn't have to be a fuse, btw, it can be a breaker too) now becomes your service disconnect, you ground to that disconnect, and your EV panel becomes a subpanel. Your run from the EV subpanel to the service disconnect must be 4-wire, keeping ground and neutral separate. Your use of SE cable now limits that to 90A (AL #2), since the wiring from EV panel to service disconnect is now under NEC jurisdiction.

Thanks for the response. I love when i get an email on this thread:) I just bought 15 feet of ground wire yesterday lol.

So I will need these for outside now and also will need the 4 wire cable to make my ev panel a subpanel
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Load-Center-HOM612L100RBCP/100143240
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-2-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM2100CP/100156187

Now back to the initial point wk057 made about main line and load. I wonder if the inspection will fail that i have my main panel at 150amp and new one at 100amp even if only 40 amp is being used. The main line cant handle it or its not code. If this could be the case

THEN
This is making me think to do a simple 50 amp connection and think about model 3 when model 3 comes out :), which I hope wont get delayed LOL. Hire an electrician at that time LOL.


For 50 amp

Put this outside (similar to my parents). I went back to my parents and found that the main meter was not grounded as i initially thought.So i cant figure how did the electrician ground the setup.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...OM24L70RBCP/100194428?quantity=1&str_nbr=2721

Picture from my parents house. It does not seem that the electrician grounded this at all. 4 wires going to house and 3 coming from the ev meter
70amp.jpg


I guess i will have to look at the ev meter if that was grounded, I dont see any ground wire coming out of it.
2.jpg


1.jpg


Appreciate all the responses so far. I've learned a lot and then fed a lot of information back to my cousin.
 
A few more things from your parents' picture: those two cables going through a single clamp is likely a violation on your EV meter - those clamps are generally for a single cable. In rare cases, you can find clamps rated for 2 #12 or #14 NM (Romex) but they must be listed as such. I'm surprised that passed an inspection (along with using unprotected entrance cable)!

The green screw in the box bonds the box to the neutral, creating a ground for the box. You said previously your parents' home was grounded from the primary meter pan - in that case you don't have to run any additional grounds because the service is grounded from the meter pan. You need to ground multiple service panels only if the grounding takes place in the service panel (as opposed to the primary meter pan).

Finally, those stray strands in the box from the cable on the left of the disconnect should be clipped. Those are the ones that make loud "POP!" noises as they vaporize once they accidentally touch the hot conductors.

My local inspectors wouldn't pass that setup.
 
Inspection passed today. I ended up moving the breaker panel behind the ev meter (in the basement). The inspector said so far in all his inspections the disconnect has been outside. He said everything looks according to code but DTE might want a disconnect outside, in any case he passed and said lets see what DTE does.

Thank you for all your help and TIME, just wanted to say that Still alive, the below did no happen to us even though being quite for a while might have made it look that way.

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