@tyler_k1 I know that this is very subjective, but do you think that Skar sub with mounting bracket is worth the $. I don't hate the stock sub, but do wish it would extend a bit deeper. This combo is very inexpensive and thus my intrigue. If I had my way I would certainly add a separate amp and sub setup, but I'm nervous of creating problems with the car's electrical system.
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Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing
- Thread starter RWAudio
- Start date
I would say yes. It's quite obvious that the Skar extends deeper which alone is worth the 100 bucks and 30 minutes of time, at least to me. Beyond that, even on the stock amp I subjectively feel that the Skar hits a bit harder in general. But if nothing else, the low end extension is absolutely worth it to me.
Sorry in advance if this is a silly question, but the "Teslaness" factor of this car intmidates me. I've done several car audio upgrades on my own over the years and that doesn't intimidate me, but this car does. I've got the sub and bracket enroute. My question is do I need to power down the car to make the swap of the sub or any other special steps? Also the sub I ordered is VD-8 D4. Is there anything special I will need to wire it up to the factory amp? Sorry for the very basic questions but I've not disassembled this before, so I'm not sure what I'll find.
It's honestly very easy. There are quite a few videos on Youtube showing how to remove the sub/amp. I turned off the main screen, just do a quick Google search on how to power down a Tesla screen and that's all you need to do in my experience.
You don't have to do anything special with the wiring, it's just left/right and +/- given it's a dual voice coil. The Skar uses spring loaded connectors (I don't know the official name for this), simply stick in the factory connectors to the appropriate places (4 wires in total). The wires are different colors but generally +/- colors are pretty standard.
Here are a few haphazard photos I took:
I'm not sure what it takes to confuse the electrical system, but I'm running a 300w RMS DSP amp plus a 800w RMS sub amp off of the 16v battery without a problem. The 10" sub and enclosure I have just happened to fit perfectly in the sub-trunk. Its more than enough bass, in fact I've got it turned down a few db to match the rest of the system. No electrical issues.
16volts in the "penthouse", which is under the right back seat. Safest is to power down the car from the screen, disconnect the 12v battery under the hood, then disconnect the 16v battery harness under the seat before adding the wire to the post. Lots of videos and directions around. Need to make sure your amps work up to 16v, which I think is fairly common. My sub amp is 10-15 years old and will accept up to 16v.
Hey folks
First post here after picking up a used 2019 model 3 LR and I want to upgrade the audio. Also have a 22 Model Y LR but that’s the ladies car for the most part.
My question: I have some Hybrid Audio drivers I wanted to try to fit the doors/dash and have a few questions:
1. Is it possible to mount a 6x9 midbass in the front door?
2. Is there someone here that can modify the stl files to fit other drivers? I’m willing to pay.
The drivers in question are the Unity 3 and Unity 6x9
First post here after picking up a used 2019 model 3 LR and I want to upgrade the audio. Also have a 22 Model Y LR but that’s the ladies car for the most part.
My question: I have some Hybrid Audio drivers I wanted to try to fit the doors/dash and have a few questions:
1. Is it possible to mount a 6x9 midbass in the front door?
2. Is there someone here that can modify the stl files to fit other drivers? I’m willing to pay.
The drivers in question are the Unity 3 and Unity 6x9
I doubt it due to the limited depth of the mounting point and size of the door grill. Robin is your man - check the RW website in the link earlier in this thread.
I have a clamshell bracket for the tweeters, but haven't had a chance to incorporate a clip or something into the design. Happy to send it to you as is, you just have to use a dab of glue or simply carefully install them into the A pillar holder, as once it's installed it all holds together nicely. (I'll throw it on the site for download).
The basic Focal tweeter bracket is live.
I don't have an instruction sheet for it yet.
Print in ABS or ASA/PETG at 0.2 to 0.28mm layer height, two walls, 3 top/bottom layers.
Clamp around the tweeter and clip into the factory bracket.
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