One last question guys .... has anyone without the prior tow package who installed this and ripped off the bumper beam actually gone through and installed a wiring harness for brake lights? I see a brake light wiring harness in the etrailer.com site but it looks complicated to install - including connections to the 12V battery and all. I don't really need break lights but was wondering the complexity of the install in case I wanted to try while the bumper is off, etc
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Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
I've done it. Just tested the wires lleading to the tail lights and tap into those. You will have to pull the rear threadhold and rear carpet to get to the wires. Took me about an hour. Get the cheapest four plug harness you can get. I think I paid $11 for mine.
Awesome @Xenoilphobe how did you know how to disassemble that portion of the car and actually find the wires you needed? Also how did you know how/where to route the 4 pin plug so it was accessible for the hitch? I've searched but can't find many instructions/details on this topic. Any advice is appreciated!!
Looks like I do have the same wiring connector inside the bumper area that I see in @ohmman photos in the original post. I just don't have a converter that converts from this plug to the circular 7 pin trailer plug type. Does anyone know where I might be able to get one of these without buying the whole towing kit? Perhaps I can only get it from the SC? And then they will want to charge me for the towing package? I'd be nice to use this vs wiring into the brake lights directly..... thanks everyone for brainstorming!
Attachments
I think you just need to find the part number and the SC will order it for you, no questions asked. At least, that's how I've gotten parts at my SC. Unfortunately, I don't have the part number handy for you...
Any chance you not longer require the Bosal 2" receiver? I am in Sydney Australia and Tesla have not made this receiver available locally. I have a number of accessories that use this system and I can't use with my Model X. Happy to pay of course.
I returned it to Tesla along with the draw bar so that they could do some research on the failure. Sorry.
Hello, first post here, hoping for some help 
I have also installed the Draw-Tite hitch receiver package on my MX90D, and I am very happy with the result.
However, since i didn't have the Tesla tow package, i still need the electrical connection, and my local Tesla SC in Sweden refuses to sell me the adapter for some reason, even though it is simply a passive adapter :-(
I think i have identified the part # as 1046032-00-C, but i have also managed to find a pigtail with the correct connector, so now i have two ways to enable the lights:
1. find someone willing to measure the pinout of the Tesla wiring adapter (special connector to 13-pin trailer plug) so i can build my own adapter from the pigtail.
2. find someone willing to order the part # 1046032-00-C from their SC and send it to me in Sweden.
Any takers?
BTW, if anyone else is interested in building their own adapter, the pigtail in question is a WPT-891, "Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail", i ordered mine from nationalfleetparts.com (excellent customer service, fast shipping).
/fth
I have also installed the Draw-Tite hitch receiver package on my MX90D, and I am very happy with the result.
However, since i didn't have the Tesla tow package, i still need the electrical connection, and my local Tesla SC in Sweden refuses to sell me the adapter for some reason, even though it is simply a passive adapter :-(
I think i have identified the part # as 1046032-00-C, but i have also managed to find a pigtail with the correct connector, so now i have two ways to enable the lights:
1. find someone willing to measure the pinout of the Tesla wiring adapter (special connector to 13-pin trailer plug) so i can build my own adapter from the pigtail.
2. find someone willing to order the part # 1046032-00-C from their SC and send it to me in Sweden.
Any takers?
BTW, if anyone else is interested in building their own adapter, the pigtail in question is a WPT-891, "Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail", i ordered mine from nationalfleetparts.com (excellent customer service, fast shipping).
/fth
qadaemon
Member
If I'm reading the part tag correctly on my stock hitch, that part number is actually the tow bar itself; or maybe that part number is a "package" with the tow bar, receiver, and adapter harness. The Tesla part number system is...unique. I can look at the wiring connector if it stops raining out and see what it says. Is the 7-pin round connector used in the US the same as Sweden?Hello, first post here, hoping for some help
I have also installed the Draw-Tite hitch receiver package on my MX90D, and I am very happy with the result.
However, since i didn't have the Tesla tow package, i still need the electrical connection, and my local Tesla SC in Sweden refuses to sell me the adapter for some reason, even though it is simply a passive adapter :-(
I think i have identified the part # as 1046032-00-C, but i have also managed to find a pigtail with the correct connector, so now i have two ways to enable the lights:
1. find someone willing to measure the pinout of the Tesla wiring adapter (special connector to 13-pin trailer plug) so i can build my own adapter from the pigtail.
2. find someone willing to order the part # 1046032-00-C from their SC and send it to me in Sweden.
Any takers?
BTW, if anyone else is interested in building their own adapter, the pigtail in question is a WPT-891, "Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail", i ordered mine from nationalfleetparts.com (excellent customer service, fast shipping).
/fth
I believe you will also need the SC to enable tow mode in the software though. They used to charge to do so, but if they're refusing to sell you the part maybe they stopped that?
That is entirely possible, the part numbers are confusing, i copied the number from a sticker that was attached to the actual adapter in a loaner X100D, but it could of course be the part number for the whole thing.
No, we use 7- or 13-pin ISO standard connectors in Europe, and the 7-pin is different from the SAEJ560 used in the U.S., but it should be fairly easy to "translate" the pinout from your adapter.
/fth
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
I installed the draw-tite 1 1/4 hitch on my wife's sP90D, looks great and easier to install in than the Eco-Hitch I have on my P85+. I'll snap a picture. Also the cutout is smaller and frankly it doesn't need to be sealed, the installer told me their was tons of dust and road debris on the rear facia when he pulled it. He cleaned it up and said that their are "fins" his word, in the wheel well area that lets in the sand and dirt. Only cost me $250 to get it installed at U-Haul.
JimVandegriff
Member
We had the draw-tite hitch receiver installed today by a body shop. Pics tomorrow. We are insanely pleased.
Solarman004
Member
Congrats, Jim!
Any word back from Tesla as to what caused the play in the original hitch and Bosal receiver?
JimVandegriff
Member
I'm really happy to hear it's been installed successfully. I can't wait to hear how you feel once you tow with it.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
I have to find the thread on here. I just drilled a hole dead center in the rear of the car and ran the wires down through a grommet to the hitch area behind the rear bumper cover when the bumper itself was removed.
JimVandegriff
Member
Here are a few photos of our install. Kreations autobody did a good job. They used the Curt adapter for the 7 pin connector. They attached it to the hitch receiver. We may need to take off the cover (you can see Illijana putting it back on after our examination) when towing. We are pleased with the results - haven't hooked up the trailer to it yet, but maybe next week. How far do you think that semi could haul a trailer? ;-)
Everyone -- have you guys seen this article posted today about another hitch on a Model S? Do you all think we have the same problem on the ModelX with the Draw-Tite hitch???
Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive
Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive
I hadn’t seen it, but thanks for pointing it out. Certainly worth keeping in mind. For those who don’t feel like reading the entire article, galvanic corrosion occurred on the author’s Model S body at the Torklift hitch attachment point. It was a direct result of a finish failure on that hitch, which allowed exposed steel to cannibalize exposed aluminum on the unibody.
So long as our finish stays intact, we should be ok. But I think this is a good reminder that we should be checking things out annually if possible. A flashlight in the hatch would be an easy way to spot check for rust. An inexpensive endoscope would be even better. I’ll be buying one.
And additionally, those installing the hitches in the future should consider additional isolation of the hitch as was done in the article by putting a layer of hard plastic between the hitch and body. I can't speak to how that might compromise the engineering of the hitch. Hopefully Draw-Tite will have a solution.
I also have concerns about the stock hitch on the MX -- was there any additional shielding there? I wonder if Tesla will have a problem here in the future.
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