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Can’t wake X

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davezforce

IG @davezforce
Jan 18, 2017
618
308
NJ
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Twice now I’m away from my X which is at home and I can not access it from the app. It just says waking up and keeps just spinning. I re started phone and nothing. The only thing that will fix it is when I get home and walk up to it with the fob. Has anyone else had this? It’s a new X about 4 weeks old. Is there any other way to wake remotely or no. Thanks.
 
I see the same issue with my 11/18 X. It happens at least 1 out of every 3 times I try the app while it is in my garage. I always assumed it was poor reception in my garage.
Mines outside, has decent WiFi too. So I don’t think it’s that. Even if I unlock then re lock with the fob it stays asleep. Only way to get it out is to get in the car and hit the brake and turn it on. It’s like some sort of deep sleep that won’t wake up remotely. Strange.
 
New update. Just can home from work. Grabbed the fob, door opened, lights came on, pressed the brake, door shut nothing came on screen. Car is completely stuck in my driveway. Had 210 miles of charge left yesterday. Tried a reset by holding the brake, and the scroll buttons plus the buttons about the scroll wheels. All if does is make a couple click sounds and that’s it. I tried to plug the charger in, door opens but plug won’t go in. I can see the lock tab is up. So I have a 113k car with 43 miles completely stuck in my driveway. This is not gonna end well.
 
This is a known problem that I also have.

I have been told the following from Tesla support/service - and I am very interested if someone else have got other info.

1. When the car is awake it will communicate directly with a server - and the App is also communicating with same server. Everything works fine.

2. When the cars goes to sleep to save energy it does not talk to the server any more.

3. To wake it up Tesla will send a SMS to the sleeping car. This is suposed to wake it so it starts to communicate again.

4. This procedure does not work properly for some unknown reason.

5. I have been told to configure the car to not go to sleep - a sollution that is silly to me.
The car should be waked up - it should not be configured to never sleep.
 
This is a known problem that I also have.

I have been told the following from Tesla support/service - and I am very interested if someone else have got other info.

1. When the car is awake it will communicate directly with a server - and the App is also communicating with same server. Everything works fine.

2. When the cars goes to sleep to save energy it does not talk to the server any more.

3. To wake it up Tesla will send a SMS to the sleeping car. This is suposed to wake it so it starts to communicate again.

4. This procedure does not work properly for some unknown reason.

5. I have been told to configure the car to not go to sleep - a sollution that is silly to me.
The car should be waked up - it should not be configured to never sleep.
My problem is more severe than expected. Seems there is a problem with the newest software on Some cars. it completely drained the 12v battery. Roadside came out yesterday to jump, with no luck. Car will not go into tow mode, the tow truck did not have the proper Dolly’s to get it out of my driveway. I’m not to keen on the dolly system they showed me that they were going to dispatch out to me. So I’m making mobile come out and install a new 12v battery hoping there will be enough juice in it just to drive the X out my driveway on to the flatbed or even just get it into tow mode so we can push. There is something wrong with the software that is rapidly draining the 12v and it need to go to the service center. Still to me highly unacceptable for a brand new car with 43 miles. That is going on day 3 of being stuck in driveway.
 
Using Teslafi, all the new cars (or at least mine) do not show sleep status, they show "Offline" instead. My car will wake up from the app, but the "Offline" instead of "Sleep" is annoying and possibly related to the issue you're having. Leaving Overheat protection or Sentry on prevents the car from dropping offline, but then the car doesn't sleep either.
 
Mines outside, has decent WiFi too. So I don’t think it’s that. Even if I unlock then re lock with the fob it stays asleep. Only way to get it out is to get in the car and hit the brake and turn it on. It’s like some sort of deep sleep that won’t wake up remotely. Strange.
Pretty sure that remote access doesn't use Wi-Fi, it uses cellular. That's backed up by people reporting that Wi-Fi will connect for a little bit and then stay disconnected when at home.

If the car has a lousy cellular connection, it may or may not respond.
 
Really sorry to hear this. What a disappointment for you! This is a time when you should be feeling like a kit on Christmas morning.

I don't think you can conclude that the firmware necessarily is the cause. The 12V battery installed may be defective or may have been installed improperly or the DC/DC converter that charges the battery may be defective or... Let's hope the explanation is the simplest one i.e. bad battery.

As new batteries are delivered charged (or at least partially charged) the new battery they put in will allow the car to come to life (the computers etc run on this battery) and if the main battery is charged it will maintain the 12V battery. Thus you should be able to drive to the service center but I would certainly understand that you may not want to.

I will mention that you can get the frunk open manually (you'd have to check the manual on line to see how to do that). You can then remove the cover at the top and access the 12V battery terminals to which you can connect a charger just as you would with an ICE car. You might be able to get enough charge into the 12V to run the car long enough to get it onto the truck. Or the charger's diagnostics may reveal a problem with the battery. Probably better to get this suggestion from Tesla rather than from me though so perhaps best to do nothing until they get to you.
 
My understanding is that the car is always looking for a WiFi connection and will grab one it already knows about with its first priority being the hotspot at any Tesla store or SC followed by the one(s) you have enabled at home. If no WiFi connection is available (or, I suppose, if an available connection is too shaky) it will try connect over the cellular network.

I too have experienced the situation where the app cannot wake up the car. Nor can Stats at those times but TeslaFi seems to be able to.
 
My understanding is that the car is always looking for a WiFi connection and will grab one it already knows about with its first priority being the hotspot at any Tesla store or SC followed by the one(s) you have enabled at home. If no WiFi connection is available (or, I suppose, if an available connection is too shaky) it will try connect over the cellular network.

I too have experienced the situation where the app cannot wake up the car. Nor can Stats at those times but TeslaFi seems to be able to.

Yes, then it seemingly checks to see if any updates are available and then disconnects. Watch your router and you should see this happening.
 
Really sorry to hear this. What a disappointment for you! This is a time when you should be feeling like a kit on Christmas morning.

I don't think you can conclude that the firmware necessarily is the cause. The 12V battery installed may be defective or may have been installed improperly or the DC/DC converter that charges the battery may be defective or... Let's hope the explanation is the simplest one i.e. bad battery.

As new batteries are delivered charged (or at least partially charged) the new battery they put in will allow the car to come to life (the computers etc run on this battery) and if the main battery is charged it will maintain the 12V battery. Thus you should be able to drive to the service center but I would certainly understand that you may not want to.

I will mention that you can get the frunk open manually (you'd have to check the manual on line to see how to do that). You can then remove the cover at the top and access the 12V battery terminals to which you can connect a charger just as you would with an ICE car. You might be able to get enough charge into the 12V to run the car long enough to get it onto the truck. Or the charger's diagnostics may reveal a problem with the battery. Probably better to get this suggestion from Tesla rather than from me though so perhaps best to do nothing until they get to you.
That’s just what the Tesla roadside guy on the phone told me. That there is a software issue with the newest version affecting some cars and that even if the jump pack got the 12v running he wanted me to tow it to the service center because it would most likely drain the battery back down and make the vehicle become unresponsive again. I did have to access the emergency frunk release to open it. The problem with the jump pack is you can not drive the car with the frunk open and when the two guy tried to lower the frunk it shorted his jump pack out sending sparks everywhere (I snapped on him). Thank god there was no damage to my X. I honesty don’t trust anyone to work on this thing at this point. When I tried to put my battery charger on it after he left, it just goes thru a series of clicks and sounds and only the main screen comes on. Dash board one is completely dark. Then It goes all threw the reboot,sounds,clicks again with no luck. It’s definitely a software stuck loop issue of some kind. Just praying the new 12v will get it out of the driveway on to the flat bed. I’m just sick to my stomach over the whole thing. And I’m not actually thrilled about it having to go to the service center already to get stuff ripped apart. It’s just too soon I don’t even get to enjoy it. It was at the detailers for 3 weeks getting the full wrap, etc. literally drove it like 35 miles. And now all this. Just want to cry. Lol
 
That’s just what the Tesla roadside guy on the phone told me. That there is a software issue with the newest version affecting some cars and that even if the jump pack got the 12v running he wanted me to tow it to the service center because it would most likely drain the battery back down and make the vehicle become unresponsive again. I did have to access the emergency frunk release to open it. The problem with the jump pack is you can not drive the car with the frunk open and when the two guy tried to lower the frunk it shorted his jump pack out sending sparks everywhere (I snapped on him). Thank god there was no damage to my X. I honesty don’t trust anyone to work on this thing at this point. When I tried to put my battery charger on it after he left, it just goes thru a series of clicks and sounds and only the main screen comes on. Dash board one is completely dark. Then It goes all threw the reboot,sounds,clicks again with no luck. It’s definitely a software stuck loop issue of some kind. Just praying the new 12v will get it out of the driveway on to the flat bed. I’m just sick to my stomach over the whole thing. And I’m not actually thrilled about it having to go to the service center already to get stuff ripped apart. It’s just too soon I don’t even get to enjoy it. It was at the detailers for 3 weeks getting the full wrap, etc. literally drove it like 35 miles. And now all this. Just want to cry. Lol
And what version is this?
 
It's pretty clear from the description that you gave that it is a hardware problem. Actually, that's good news. It's also pretty clear that the problem is a "major" one e.g. a failed DC/DC converter, the battery itself, a cable etc. The reason that this is good news is that such problems are much easier to find that some arcane software glitch and thus much easier to repair. This is not, of course, always the case but let's hope it proves to be so here.