So I changed out the right side of my Roadster with Carbotech AX6 pads. Have to wait in the morning to have the left side rotors turned on the car. Shop tech went home who cuts the rotors... Brake job was really easy, just take your time, buy 1 can of brake clean for each wheel and also take the time to spray down the wheels and calipers with brake clean.
A couple of tips:
Buy a can of brake squeal quieter spray. Its basically a sticky compound, this gets applied to the backs of the brake pads as well as the contacts the pads make with the piston and caliper. Don't put this on anything that slides. It is to mute any shake of the pad that causes the squeal I used CRC Disk Brake Quiet:
Amazon.com: CRC Industries 05017 Disc Brake Quiet - 12 oz.: Automotive
Also buy some good corrosion resistant grease, this gets applied to the moving parts... I had some left over from a previous brake job. You want to apply this to any sliding part such as the brake and caliper contacts as well as the pins that hold the pads on. Use your best judgement where it goes and don't over apply. The goal is to prevent corrosion and rust and allow things to slide nicely, you don't want dirt and grit to get trapped in the grease which occurs if there's too much.
One major observation I made is that I strongly believe the rotors on my Roadster were installed backwards, meaning the vents on the rotors are not scooping air to cool the rotors down but rather deflecting the air. I looked at the Video on the beginning of this thread as an aid to remove my pads and looking at the Lotus rotor, it is facing in the right direction, where it scoops air to cool the rotor and blow dust out.... I'll be flipping my rotors around tomorrow... I know they're not installed right. You may want to check your roadster.
Another Tip:
Our rotors are drilled to help cool and remove rust, dust, and dirt. Talking shop at my local speed shop the tech noted that one guy re-countersinks the rotor holes. It actually makes sense, but you don't want to drill metal out. You want to clean the hole from dirt and debris as well as cleaning the countersink. Our rotors have a countersink drilled into their surface to help scoop out the dirt and dust. This gets filled with dirt and goop.... same with the holes that's drilled through our rotors. I found that 70% of my drilled holes where filled with goop and dust. So I used a drill bit that was the same size/smaller to bore out the hole and clean it out. I also cleaned out the countersink as well. Note, I ran the drill backwards to prevent from cutting out any metal from the rotor. I actually hosed the rotor with water before, during, and after this process to help take away the dust and dirt. You want to hit the cooling fins to clean them out too. There's dust, cobb webs and all types of crap in there that needs to be cleaned. I then hit the rotor and its cooling fins as well as hitting each drilled hole in the rotor with brake clean. Its good to do this before having your rotor cut down. When you get your rotors back from the shop, hit them with brake clean again.
A note from my speed shop. My front rotors were slightly warped. So that means there's an issue with the braking on the front of my roadster... if its heating the rotors so much to warp its not cooling and its working too hard. Possibly flipping the rotors around so they actually cool down will fix this. I'll see if the Carbotech pads will fix this in combination. I'll also be keeping an eye on the brake dust that's logged in the drilled rotor holes and re-purge them out if necessary around 5k miles. My roadster now has 9k miles and as you can see needed maintenance in order to have optimum braking capabilities.
Lastly my speed shop tech commented that you should always re-surface your rotors when you have new pads installed. Reason being is that the rotor needs to have a nice rough / fresh surface to burn off the break in material that's typically applied to the face of the pads. It makes sense. Looking at my nicely re-surfaced rotor it has a slight rough surface to it. A rotor that hasn't been resurfaced has a glaze or polished look. Lastly if I didn't have my rotors resurfaced I wouldn't have known that the front's were warped.