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Anyone use this Romex 6/3 cable during install?

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Thanks for this I'm going to research some more. The gen3 installation manual says we can use 6 awg and my electrician also said it was good to use. I'm in coastal, central California and it doesn't hardly get hotter that 80 degrees

And so it does: "If installing for maximum power, use minimum 6 AWG, 90° C-rated copper wire for conductors.", which is highly misleading for Tesla to put that in their freaking manual.

I don't want to get all code nazi on you, but here's a typical ampacity table showing the maximum ratings. NM-B (Romex) has a maximum ampacity rating of 55A on 6 gauge, unlike THHN wire pulled in a conduit. The problem is the construction of the romex wire bundle itself. It has a very thin vinyl outer cover which can melt and cause the potentially hot internal conductors to touch sawdust and combust. This electrical code page section, right at the top states that you have to use the 60 degree temperature rating for NM-B cables which results in the 55A rating with 6 gauge.

The other thing you are confused about is intermittent loads versus continuous loads. The 55A rating for 6 gauge NM-B is for intermittent loads. EVs are considered continuous loads since they stay on full blast for hours at a time. Continuous loads must themselves also be derated to 80%. So a circuit that can handle 60A with a 60A breaker can only draw 48A by an EV. For a 55A wire, that would be 44A maximum for an EV.

As far as "only charging at night" goes, well that'll work until you need to charge during the day once.

Look, do want you want, I'm just pointing out the safety concerns.

MANY MANY electricians screw this up, so don't feel like you did anything unusual. All this is one reason why I wrote a special page about DIY EVSE installs here on my site.
 
What's the setting on the EVSE? Do you have a Tesla Wall Connector? What do you have the breaker rating set at in the app (or in the dip switches if it is an older EVSE)?
Wall connector gen 3. I had it set to 60amp from the web settings when it was connected to the 60 amp breaker.

I was able to charge the car overnight on the 50amp breaker no issues. Set the charger to 50 amp in web settings as well. We tried 2 new 60 amp breakers.
 
Worked fine all night on 50 amp breaker. Tried 2 new 60 amp breakers.
Then maybe Dave Will’s suggestion is right, the connections at the Wall Charger itself aren’t tight enough, and there was a high resistance and thus too large a current draw when set to 60 A. Either that or did you did have two bad 60A breakers. Or you‘ve got a bad Gen 3 WC that tried to draw more than 48A. Or they used 8 gauge Romex.

At any rate, I’d pop the Wall charge cover off (after turning off the breaker) and inspecting those wire connections and tightening them down just in case. And continue charging at 40A with that 50A breaker, that’s the right setting anyways for 6 gauge Romex.
 
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Got my wall connector installed today by a local electrician. They had to run about 25-30 feet of wire. I am assuming it’s Romex but I know it’s 6 gauge wiring. It’s connected to a 60amp breaker. I did not plug the car in while they were finishing up. But when I did 2-3 hours later it would work for 4-6 mins and then the breaker trips. They came back out and tried a new 60 amp breaker and then a 50 amp breaker. Well it works fine on the 50 amp breaker. I think I will have him change out the wire since he should have known it’s only rated for 55 amp. Do you think this is the cause of my issue? Or did they mess something else up?

Thanks

No. Something else is/was wrong. Even if he had it incorrectly set for 48 amps with 6-3 romex on a 60 amp breaker the breaker would not trip.

The breaker needs to get hot. So either the wiring to the breaker was loose causing arcing, he used a substantially smaller wire size (like 10awg or 12awg), or the buss bar the breaker is connected to is pitted resulting in arcing at that connection point.
 
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That's not how electrical code works. The wire isn't rated for 60a, period. You don't get to say, "but I won't let it get that hot".
Actually, you can.

Derating factors:


You can see if it is in an environment under 50 degrees for the life of the installation, you can derate the wire by 1.29 x max current allowed.
 
Actually, you can.

Derating factors:


You can see if it is in an environment under 50 degrees for the life of the installation, you can derate the wire by 1.29 x max current allowed.
Kinda irrelevant for this thread isn’t it? No one here can guarantee that ambient will be less than 26 degrees Celsius at all times.
 
No. Something else is/was wrong. Even if he had it incorrectly set for 48 amps with 6-3 romex on a 60 amp breaker the breaker would not trip.

The breaker needs to get hot. So either the wiring to the breaker was loose causing arcing, he used a substantially smaller wire size (like 10awg or 12awg), or the buss bar the breaker is connected to is pitted resulting in arcing at that connection point.
He came back out and retorqued everything. It’s a 6 gauge wire. I compared it to the 8 gauge. The weird thing is when it’s set to 48amp and charging for 1-2 mins it’s reading 59amps at the breaker. Roughly 4-5 mins later it trips.
 
Then maybe Dave Will’s suggestion is right, the connections at the Wall Charger itself aren’t tight enough, and there was a high resistance and thus too large a current draw when set to 60 A. Either that or did you did have two bad 60A breakers. Or you‘ve got a bad Gen 3 WC that tried to draw more than 48A. Or they used 8 gauge Romex.

At any rate, I’d pop the Wall charge cover off (after turning off the breaker) and inspecting those wire connections and tightening them down just in case. And continue charging at 40A with that 50A breaker, that’s the right setting anyways for 6 gauge Romex.
He came back out and retorqued everything. It’s a 6 gauge wire. I compared it to the 8 gauge. The weird thing is when it’s set to 48amp and charging for 1-2 mins it’s reading 59amps at the breaker. Roughly 4-5 mins later it trips.

I’m charging at 40amps on the 60amp breaker now. Been working fine for 10-15 mins so far.
 
He came back out and retorqued everything. It’s a 6 gauge wire. I compared it to the 8 gauge. The weird thing is when it’s set to 48amp and charging for 1-2 mins it’s reading 59amps at the breaker. Roughly 4-5 mins later it trips.
Something is seriously wrong. That extra 11a is going somewhere, undoubtedly creating heat. I'd be interested in what it measures when you're charging at 40a, I bet it's higher than 40a.
 
It is closer to 50. I’m going to try to get a replacement from Tesla and see how that one does.

So the ammeter measured close to 50 when charging at 40A? Look in your app or on the car to see what charge the car is drawing. If the car is drawing 40A (or 39A, since it often rounds down), then you’ve like 9A of current being turned into heat somewhere, and it could indeed be in the Wall Connector meaning it is most likely defective if you’ve retorqued the connections in there.

9A at 240v is like 2,000 watts of power or like a hair dryer on full blast. Definitely figure out the problem!
 
So the ammeter measured close to 50 when charging at 40A? Look in your app or on the car to see what charge the car is drawing. If the car is drawing 40A (or 39A, since it often rounds down), then you’ve like 9A of current being turned into heat somewhere, and it could indeed be in the Wall Connector meaning it is most likely defective if you’ve retorqued the connections in there.

9A at 240v is like 2,000 watts of power or like a hair dryer on full blast. Definitely figure out the problem!
Car is set to 40 and meter is reading 50. When car is set to 48 meter is ready 59