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3000km in a Model 3 - the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

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Hi folks. Long time listener, first time caller, with a 2020 Model 3 Performance.

I put 1000km on my new car in its first month, doing everyday duties in Norway. It worked well.

Then I took it 2000km+ into Europe over 2 days, where I learned lots.


To skip further preamble and to the summary: the car failed me on the road. and the process of roadside assistance/emergency contact was left for wanting.


To skip the drama of this story, just skip to the next post.



Day 2, 10 hours driven, 2000km elapsed trip distance, 3000km total car life, we are in motoring through Slovakia:

Car was chugging down the highway when a series of dings accompanied the messages "power reduced...", and then "rear motor failure...*", and then something basically about catastrophic inoperability. It stuttered and shook itself to a stop, depositing me on the shoulder just outside of Bratislava with 18 wheelers whizzing by.

I hit the car's SOS button hoping to reach a Tesla operator. A Slovakian lady picked up and repeated the some gibberish over and over again. She didn't respond to single word of English or German, which was unusual for an emergency operator, and the 2 overwhelmingly most prominent language on the continent.

We hung in stalemate for 5 minute, so I gave up and Ctrl+Alt-Del'ed the car. It allowed me back into gear and limp gingerly to an exit.

error.jpg


After booting, the screen is showing residual error messages, telling me to contact Tesla. Except not anywhere in this damn tablet is a direct link or instruction to actually contact Tesla**. I rifle through the emergency booklet and start dialing the 24/7/365 numbers. My wife and I are working our 2 phones dialing Ireland, UK, Norway, Netherlands, etc. Some numbers are unreachable, others trap us in menu-hell, and the rest puts us in a 10+ minute hold.

[**Later found a number listed after hitting the T icon. That number also kept me on hold....]

I rebooted the car a few more times. It's lost all connectivity, but gained instead these error messages.

After a 10 hour day, we're stranded 2 hours from our final destination. It's 10pm and near freezing. Heating is off because I'm reluctant to draw the apparent remaining 25% of battery. We gambled on driving it to the next charging station 1 hour away, and then powering home. BUT (1) with the car not connecting back to mothership, there's a chance it won't be allowed to charge and (2) I needed assurance car was driveable.


I caught a technician on the US hotline. He politely informed me that according to the logs, he did see the car "performed a 'graceful shutdown'", but afterwards no evidence of reboots or irregularities. (Of course, he couldn't, because the car refused to reconnect). He gave me numbers to some more europe numbers to call and wished me well.


Long story short we made it to a nearby SC. It miraculously charged. 20 minutes into the charging section it also regained cellular connectivity, and we felt confident enough to complete the remaining 200km. It zapped our confidence in the thing though, and I'm skeptical about using it on the 2000km trip home. There's no service center in this country....​
 
TRIP BASICS:
  • Norway->Sweden->Denmark->Germany->Czechia->Slovakia->Destination
  • 2 days * 12 hours on-road. 2345KM driven.
  • Speed typically 110kph or 130kph. 215Wh/km = 350Wh/mi. Avg 5*C with light rain.
  • 11 SC stops + initial home charge; 619 kWh consumed; 180 EUR spent
  • 0.30c EUR per SC kWh = 0.33c USD per SC kWh. 7.6c per KM. (My 350hp BMW does 11c/KM)


THE GOOD:

Supercharging network is superb. Always one within reasonable proximity. Always stalls available. Always hitting 130kW. After a coffee and bathroom break, it was basically done (15->70%). Sometimes we felt compelled to hurry back to the car to not incur idle fees.
I just cannot imagine having e.g. a Leaf, charging twice as frequently, and at < half the speed.
Storage is fantastic. Cavernous centre console swallows everything for a long time.

Power on tap is prodigious. This surprises noone here, but this car is a king on the autobahn.

Seat comfort is fine. No complaints. Would like deeper, narrower, adjustable bolsters; and more inflation to lumbar. But otherwise absolutely fine for 12 hours of sitting.

Car is very darty. Feels about half its weight and changes direction on a dime. Quick steerin ratio is probably 1 cause. This is both good and bad. (see later).

20" wheels rides well. No ride-comfort issues with it at all.

TACC is great for the gridlock.


***************************************************************

NOT SO GOOD:

Half the time, car demanded a keycard to start. At home, this rarely happened.

Car is quite noisy at speeds. In Norway we only drive <100kph. We discovered continental cruising at 130kph is not so fun due to wind buffetting.

Efficiency drops precipitously with speeds. This also surprises noone here. We ended stopping basically every 2hr/200-200km. It's not a total chore, but I otherwise could have driven through half the stops.

Rear vent control would be nice ??


***************************************************************



BAD:

Car handled nervously at times. In certain sections of roads that wasn't particularly bumpy, or gusty or curvy, car got tugged around like an econobox in a tornado. Passing lorries felt like freigh trains. Quick steering didnt help to correct the attitude. It just felt unplanted and unsettled.

Tires are full-treaded Nokian Hakka R3, so less-squirmy summers tires might help.

Car doesn't map speeds properly. Happened often, and cascades tons of problems with autopilot.

Front fender cameras rendered useless. Constantly cycling between "left camera blocked or blinded" to "right camera blocked..." to "both camera blocked". Day 1 was rainy and it was blocked 50% the time. Day 2 was dry and clear and it was blocked 25% of the time. Camera should be more shrouded.
 
"AUTOPILOT" Failures and Annoyances.

PHANTOM STOPS. Whatever the cause (bridges, trucks, change in mapped speeds), it does it often, and it is ultra jerky. At 140kph it jolts passengers awake, pissses off other motorists, and is just plain unsafe.

TACC hestitates on lane changes. If changing lanes to pass a slower car, car suddenly hesitates while straddling lanes. Basically I have to add throttle manually to keep accel smooth.

Camera failures disables Autopilot. Self explanatory.

TACC speed defaults to mapped speeds
. Imaginge driving in a 70 zone, and computer thinks its 110. You turn on TACC - which jumps to 110 (+/- offset) - then need to rapidly scroll speed down to 70. Then you might need to brake or whatever, and when you reengage TACC it jumps back to 110.

Just horrible. Give me a RESUME button like good ole "dumb" cruise control.


Loud pings when going engaging/disengaging Autosteer. Need to change lanes often on Autobahn and must disengage/engage AS, so its just ping ping pinging away. You might say one should buy FSD to get NoA with Autolanechange and whatever... but given all the issues above, there is no way in hell i would trust FSD to use it, much less pay for it.


**********************
Odds and ends

Trip computer is cool, but why no average speed captured?

The trip computer efficiency reading does not match up with the Energy graph reading, at any of the 10/25/50km marks. Typically 3-10wh/km delta.

Freeway with solid barriers obscure truckers lights from the opposite direction. So the car thinks theres no traffic and turns on the auto high beams. But the truckers sit high and they dont much like it.

***********************

All in all, it wasnt the magical continental cruiser I entertained it might be. Thought I would cruise on TACC+AS for 80% of the trip and it would whisker me to my destination feeling like a newborn baby birthed in a Lufthansa first class cabin. But it roadtripped like my other cars. Still many elements to it that I enjoy, of course, and works great as a day to day driver, and in my normal environment these problems dont (or didnt) show up.
 
Unfortunate experience. You were lucky to be able to limp off the autoroute. Being able to supercharge and revive the car makes you wonder about the battery, though I wonder about the 12V. A flaky 12V can cause randomly strange issues. Let us know what you find out.
 
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Unfortunate experience. You were lucky to be able to limp off the autoroute. Being able to supercharge and revive the car makes you wonder about the battery, though I wonder about the 12V. A flaky 12V can cause randomly strange issues. Let us know what you find out.

What I did was a soft-reboot (2 buttons). And then a hard-reboot (2 buttons + brake pedal).

The US Tesla operator instructed me to do a power shutdown through the computer, which I hadn't heard about before. And supposedly it relates to 12V battery, so you may be right. I'll take it to a Service Center when I return home to be sure.

This is what he emailed me:

POWER CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS

How to Power Cycle a car:

  • Navigate to Controls (Car icon in bottom left corner of touchscreen) > Safety & Security > Power Off

  • Once the car has been turned off for around 2 minutes, either open the door to the car or put your foot on the brake to turn the car back on
When should a Power Cycle be used?
If the car is displaying alerts on their touchscreen that don't seem to have a clear cause, a Power Cycle is recommended. However, alerts that directly point to an issue, such as a 12v Battery Replacement, should be diagnosed and addressed by Tesla.
 
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That really sucks. I took a 2400km trip recently and had no problems with AP, but I think the speed map that AP uses might be more accurate in the US than in EU. I am told that the early versions of AP could read speed from the road signs. It's too bad that we no longer have that capability. I had the phantom braking thing about 3 or 4 times, enough to be a bother, but maybe I've just been conditioned to accept it.

You're spot on with the pinging with AP on/off. In fact that is the only realistic benefit to FSD right now, that you don't have to disable and enable AP to pass. Otherwise, there is not much point to it, other than party tricks with smart summon.
 
Car is quite noisy at speeds. We discovered continental cruising at 130kph is not so fun due to wind buffetting.

This is by far my biggest issue with the Model 3. German competitors are just so much better here. It really seams like the Model 3 was designed with US speed limits in mind and degrades very aggressively with even just common EU ones, let alone autobahn unrestricted.

I've had good luck with a pair of Alpine MotoSafe Tour ear plugs on long trips. They're designed for bike riding and have a frequency response that gets rid of a lot of high frequencies. You can still hear all you need for safety as well as the radio/podcasts. They're only slightly weird when listening to yourself talk (e.g., when taking a call) but even that is just unusual but still fully functional.
 
This is by far my biggest issue with the Model 3. German competitors are just so much better here. It really seams like the Model 3 was designed with US speed limits in mind and degrades very aggressively with even just common EU ones, let alone autobahn unrestricted.

I've had good luck with a pair of Alpine MotoSafe Tour ear plugs on long trips. They're designed for bike riding and have a frequency response that gets rid of a lot of high frequencies. You can still hear all you need for safety as well as the radio/podcasts. They're only slightly weird when listening to yourself talk (e.g., when taking a call) but even that is just unusual but still fully functional.
It doesn’t help he’s using snow tires that are far louder than stock tires.
 
Car is very darty. Feels about half its weight and changes direction on a dime. Quick steerin ratio is probably 1 cause. This is both good and bad. (see later).

Car is quite noisy at speeds. In Norway we only drive <100kph. We discovered continental cruising at 130kph is not so fun due to wind buffetting.

Efficiency drops precipitously with speeds. This also surprises noone here. We ended stopping basically every 2hr/200-200km. It's not a total chore, but I otherwise could have driven through half the stops.

Rear vent control would be nice ??

Car handled nervously at times. In certain sections of roads that wasn't particularly bumpy, or gusty or curvy, car got tugged around like an econobox in a tornado. Passing lorries felt like freigh trains. Quick steering didnt help to correct the attitude. It just felt unplanted and unsettled.

EXACTLY! After coming from an Audi S5 Sportback this car feels very unplanted on ground. Bugs the hell out of me, especially since it's supposed to be heavier. That, plus the noise. Kinda bummed that got a lesser quality car for the same amount or more as an Audi S5. The only positives are the instant torque and over the air updates. Hopefully in 5-10 years Teslas will improve. I'm very tempted to go back to ICE. :(
 
The noise complaint concerns me a lot . Ill be replacing my VW Golf MK7.5 with A P3D+, I wonder how highway noise would compare. Any ideas?
I am quite surprised with this noise problem :
Owner of a TM3 AWD+ LR with Michelin tyres on 18 » wheels , I admit we hear some wind noise effect at legal maximum speed in France i.e.135km/h.

On some quick test at very high speed it was not a trouble,

But overall, the car is much less noisy than my previous VW GOLF 6 GTI DSG and it’s a real pleasure to drive it on long distances motorways ,
I also fully enjoy ,as a true audiophile ,the premium audio system without any wind disturbance.
 
But overall, the car is much less noisy than my previous VW GOLF 6 GTI DSG and it’s a real pleasure to drive it on long distances motorways ,
I also fully enjoy ,as a true audiophile ,the premium audio system without any wind disturbance.

This is really strange to me. Either you're driving at 100km/h normally or the 18 inch tires make a massive difference. With the 20 inch ones the noise at 130km/h is significant but what I notice the most is high-frequency wind noise so the tires shouldn't make a huge difference. The step from 100 to 130 is very significant which is why it seems natural to me that a US based manufacturer would have that less as a design goal.

I do suspect manufacturing tolerances around frameless doors can be part of the explanation for this. Maybe some cars end up with better sealed doors than others. I'd definitely prefer framed doors and a solid roof with a liner because of this. I don't value frameless doors and glass roofs and they're definitely much harder to make quiet.
 
For those feeling their 3 is "darty" I would check the toe. First, make sure it's within spec. Of course, if it is, then perhaps set the toe-in within the range, but biased to a little more toe-in. That should help at the expense of higher rate of inner shoulder feathering, but safety first.
 
I am also a Norwegian with 3 Performance.
Did drive this Denmark>Germany from West coast of Norway last summer and I must say that with the 4S summer tires it is planted.

I did 160-180 km/h cruising on autobahn and it tracked road well and didn't feel nervous.

R3 I also have for winters but they would be way too soft for autobahn, then CVC7 would be better I guess. Same with noise, R3 is very noisy, 4s much more quiet.

But do know that R3 wants cold temperatures and 4s wants warm temperatures. So some of the Norwegian days falls between optimum temperature for those tires.

I have now driven my 3P almost 20.000km and while I have had some small issues I really love the car. Of course they could make it better sound insulated, but other than that I like everything about it. Great brakes, great acceleration, great stereo, charges quickly, horizontal screen is good for netflix etc.

So yes, take a new roadtrip with your summer wheels to enjoy car more. You can also buy some gaskets to seal off the wind noise.
 
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I put Hakkepellitta R3’s on mine for the winter. Fantastic winter tires but they are definitely much squirmier feeling and darty in the dry than the stock all season Continentals. The tread blocks on them are huge by design and contributes to that feeling. I think once you’re not on winter tires your handling issues will cease.
 
"AUTOPILOT" Failures and Annoyances.

PHANTOM STOPS. Whatever the cause (bridges, trucks, change in mapped speeds), it does it often, and it is ultra jerky. At 140kph it jolts passengers awake, pissses off other motorists, and is just plain unsafe.

TACC hestitates on lane changes. If changing lanes to pass a slower car, car suddenly hesitates while straddling lanes. Basically I have to add throttle manually to keep accel smooth.

Camera failures disables Autopilot. Self explanatory.

TACC speed defaults to mapped speeds
. Imaginge driving in a 70 zone, and computer thinks its 110. You turn on TACC - which jumps to 110 (+/- offset) - then need to rapidly scroll speed down to 70. Then you might need to brake or whatever, and when you reengage TACC it jumps back to 110.

Just horrible. Give me a RESUME button like good ole "dumb" cruise control.
Yes!

Hello Tesla?
 
If I recall correctly, the Hakka R3s only carry a 160km/h speed rating so if that was exceeded, I could see how they might start to feel a bit unsure. On my previous vehicle (Honda Crosstour) the Hakkas were very smooshy and wandery. Less so on the Model 3 for sure.

The camera failures are unfortunately expected for the reason you stated. I recall this being a problem on the Crosstour too with the mirror-mounted blindspot camera. It was useless most of the time in rain/mist at highway speeds. This is why I struggle with FSD being a reality anywhere but in the best of driving conditions.

Joe Mode helps with the beeps and boops.

Regarding fast driving problems, in my experience going 130km/h or higher in any vehicle results in very large efficiency losses due to physics (in summary). Same for wind noise, but others have said other cars are better for this so I'm not sure on that one. There is definitely wind noise around 120km/h (fastest road we have around here), but that's always been the case for my admittedly non-premium previous vehicles.