Ok,
So recently I swapped my calipers to a new set of Performance Calipers I had powdercoated. Pics below (I'm aware the car is filthy). New rotors and Stainless MPP brake lines as well. Install went smooth, put it in tow mode during the rear brake install as needed to release E-brake etc. no issues, until brake bleeding.
I have no air bubbles in the system that I can find and I bled in standard direction (RR,LR,FR,FL), as well as reverse (FL,FR,RL,RR) the second time after it didn't work. I did bleed outside valve and inside valved of fronts. I've used 3 500mL bottles of RBF 660 and still have no brakes. The pedal will need pumped 3-6 times before finally holding pressure and not going fully to the floor. Once it reaches that point, it will hold that pressure correctly, and is ROCK solid.
I went into the service mode on the car and I can't see any errors at all. I also reinstalled the software update just in case. I used a friend to pump the brakes while I did it. Master cylinder reservoir never ran dry. Only thing that didn't go perfectly, was I had to tell my friend to not press the pedal to the floor fast, and hard. To slow down a bit, because it's not necessary to slam the brakes. We're just moving fluid not trying to panic brake. Is there a chance that my master cylinder was damaged based on this? I did use the search function and some people had issues with ABS module it seems, I'm not sure if air got in it or not, but shouldn't have because I never let the MC run dry. Also, I have no way of activating the ABS while driving, because it's undrivable. I did leave the rear brake lines dripping for a bit while I was swapping lines, but that shouldn't be a problem because I've fully flushed after and have no air bubbles. I live 4 hours from the nearest service center so calling Tesla to assist is a non-option. Plus the service center that is closest has repeatably damaged more than they fixed over the last 3 service visits so they will be of no help I'm sure and will tell me to bring it in. They will undoubtedly only flush with their DOT 3 shitty brake fluid, which I would have to flush again, and then I'd be in the same boat again most likely.
Any help or guidance you guys can provide would be helpful. I've bled brakes on atleast 80 cars in my life because I used to work in an auto-garage growing up, and I've never had this issue. For all intents and purposes, Tesla brake systems aren't advanced in a way that would cause this to my knowledge. It's just hydraulics. Please educate me.
So recently I swapped my calipers to a new set of Performance Calipers I had powdercoated. Pics below (I'm aware the car is filthy). New rotors and Stainless MPP brake lines as well. Install went smooth, put it in tow mode during the rear brake install as needed to release E-brake etc. no issues, until brake bleeding.
I have no air bubbles in the system that I can find and I bled in standard direction (RR,LR,FR,FL), as well as reverse (FL,FR,RL,RR) the second time after it didn't work. I did bleed outside valve and inside valved of fronts. I've used 3 500mL bottles of RBF 660 and still have no brakes. The pedal will need pumped 3-6 times before finally holding pressure and not going fully to the floor. Once it reaches that point, it will hold that pressure correctly, and is ROCK solid.
I went into the service mode on the car and I can't see any errors at all. I also reinstalled the software update just in case. I used a friend to pump the brakes while I did it. Master cylinder reservoir never ran dry. Only thing that didn't go perfectly, was I had to tell my friend to not press the pedal to the floor fast, and hard. To slow down a bit, because it's not necessary to slam the brakes. We're just moving fluid not trying to panic brake. Is there a chance that my master cylinder was damaged based on this? I did use the search function and some people had issues with ABS module it seems, I'm not sure if air got in it or not, but shouldn't have because I never let the MC run dry. Also, I have no way of activating the ABS while driving, because it's undrivable. I did leave the rear brake lines dripping for a bit while I was swapping lines, but that shouldn't be a problem because I've fully flushed after and have no air bubbles. I live 4 hours from the nearest service center so calling Tesla to assist is a non-option. Plus the service center that is closest has repeatably damaged more than they fixed over the last 3 service visits so they will be of no help I'm sure and will tell me to bring it in. They will undoubtedly only flush with their DOT 3 shitty brake fluid, which I would have to flush again, and then I'd be in the same boat again most likely.
Any help or guidance you guys can provide would be helpful. I've bled brakes on atleast 80 cars in my life because I used to work in an auto-garage growing up, and I've never had this issue. For all intents and purposes, Tesla brake systems aren't advanced in a way that would cause this to my knowledge. It's just hydraulics. Please educate me.