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2014 MS 85 Battery Died - need advise

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Can anyone offer a tip on how to get the screen to activate so I can see the codes, and access tow mode come time to have it hauled to wherever I plan to send it. Considering ReCell and want some screenshots of the errors. I am still leaning Tesla though due to the "factory" warranty rather than third party should I decide to sell it in the next few years.
I plan on hooking up a trickle charger so the 12volt doesn't die.
 
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Interesting idea. The other thing is that when they tried to remove the battery (while it was under warranty) they stripped one of the bolts and just left it as is. Now they are saying that I need to take the car to a body shop and repair that stripped bolt at my own expense before they can drop the battery. I gave them a car with an untouched pack and they returned it damaged. SC said that corrosion is not covered but shouldn't the fact that they damaged it mean that they are responsible for fixing it?
How do they know it was corrosion without removing the bolt? Maybe it was the first bolt that saw the impact gun that day...and the setting was for clockwise.

Dont think it can't happen, I've seen even more stupid things from Tesla SvC.
 
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so that's a new 85 (maybe 90 pack) with a 4yr Tesla warranty for $14k, is that right? seems like a no brainer unless i'm missing something
I tend to agree especially if it will restore reasonable Supercharge times. My 2013 takes twice as long as it did initially. I now burn gasoline on 500 mile days. Not worth sitting 3 hours/day at Superchargers, not enough interesting occurring.
 
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Remote diagnostics says a bad cell.
Friday it stopped driving, no power to traction motor but the heat worked so HV connection was still there.
20minutes later it was perfectly fine until it tried to charge last night and sent an error to my phone, now the screens wont even light up....
I agree it sounds suspiciously like the 12v, those can have bad cells just like the HV.
Once you apply a battery charger to the 12v, the screen will light up (even without a HV battery) and you can activate tow mode. If the screen isn't coming on, try closing and re-opening a door (leave it open), also give it a few minutes to boot up.
 
Thanks for the suggestion! When you say "less power", do you mean that I can only get my Ludicrous power if all 90 kWh are unlocked?

I got an invoice that they install the 90 kWh pack (1014116-00-C) , and I can see that at 90% charge it was at 407 kms (254 mi). Even when the car was brand new, it only had about 360 kms (225 mi) at 90%. So I'm pretty sure that it's not software locked at this point, which would be awesome! But I have read other comments online where people weren't software locked initially, but we subsequently locked on a software update or service appointment so I hope that doesn't happen to me! I'm picking up the car tonight -- I can't believe the entire repair was done so quickly (Jan 20 to 25) :)



Oh wow, it's like we have identical cars -- I did all the same repairs! What sucks is that I just replaced two rear links in December that Tesla replaced again as part of the battery swap anyways :p



The app still shows P85D, and in the "Specs and Warranty" it says "85 kWh Performance" and "P85D" as well. Oddly enough, I can't find anywhere in the app where it says "Ludicrous" -- shoudl that appear somwhere?

Remote diagnostics says a bad cell.
Friday it stopped driving, no power to traction motor but the heat worked so HV connection was still there.
20minutes later it was perfectly fine until it tried to charge last night and sent an error to my phone, now the screens wont even light up........
Remote diagnostics says a bad cell.
Friday it stopped driving, no power to traction motor but the heat worked so HV connection was still there.
20minutes later it was perfectly fine until it tried to charge last night and sent an error to my phone, now the screens wont even light up........

I agree it sounds suspiciously like the 12v, those can have bad cells just like the HV.
Once you apply a battery charger to the 12v, the screen will light up (even without a HV battery) and you can activate tow mode. If the screen isn't coming on, try closing and re-opening a door (leave it open), also give it a few minutes to boot up.
Key way to tell is plug in a voltmeter/USB charger into to accessory socket. Anything less than 12.2V es no bueno...and you have a problem with getting power to the 12v system, or bad 12V.
 
Wanted to provide an update about my 2014 S85 that died in the middle of a rainstorm. Thanks to a comment on this forum I initiated a water damage claim via my comprehensive auto insurance with State Farm. Took the car to a different SC where they removed the pack and found it to be flooded with water.

The original SC had stripped a bolt holding the pack and insisted they were not responsible for repairing it. They removed the fireman's loop and lost it and said it wasn't their problem. But worse of all the Service Manager insisted over and over that it was impossible that the voltage isolation error was due to water damage. I'm relieved that insurance will pay to replace the battery under flood insurance but still also very pissed at the blatant dishonesty / incompetence of the service manager.
 

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Thanks. Have you observed less water egress failures (relatively speaking) in vehicles after Tesla re-route the hose away from the battery?
Was allowed to take a look at the dropped battery. The fuse cover is completely rusted through. I'd tried to have the first SC have a look before the warranty expired but they stripped one of the bolts, and refused to work on the car and said I was responsible for repairing it.
 

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Was allowed to take a look at the dropped battery. The fuse cover is completely rusted through. I'd tried to have the first SC have a look before the warranty expired but they stripped one of the bolts, and refused to work on the car and said I was responsible for repairing it.

BTW, fuse cover is inspectable with minimum frunk removal on RWD. Don't know about dual motor setup but I'd imagine at worse case a telescoping mirror/borescope can get a good view.


Was the car always based on LA? If so, probably heavy AC usage with old AC drain that dumps water on top of the battery pack in that area. Can see the self modded rerouting of that drain on my pic in above link. Should get that modified post repair. Here is a full thread on this.

Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) | Tesla Motors Club
 
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2014 P85D, warranty expired six weeks ago, and the SC recommended HV battery replacement. Error codes BMS_w017 & BMS_f017 "Schedule Service..." occurred the same day I was scheduled to bring the car in for a DU inspection for noise, SC charge speed issue, and a wheel alignment. @wk057
 
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