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12 volt accessories?

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By the way, someone posted the data sheet for the DC-DC converter somewhere on this forum. I downloaded the specifications and I'm sure there's no need to measure them. Tesla Motors' specs match the DC-DC converter specs. I cannot find the thread or link, but the item was a Martek Power PS2450. I recall that the OP was not certain that it was the one used by Tesla Motors, but the specifications and even the shape of the case seemed to match perfectly. I also saw the code DPST-2080AB A written somewhere.

As for the overall ESS, other than the DC-DC component, I don't think there would be any independent specs since Tesla Motors is the OEM. I would be interested to see your measurements (and glad to hear you performed them safely!).
 
By the way, someone posted the data sheet for the DC-DC converter somewhere on this forum. I downloaded the specifications and I'm sure there's no need to measure them. Tesla Motors' specs match the DC-DC converter specs. I cannot find the thread or link, but the item was a Martek Power PS2450. I recall that the OP was not certain that it was the one used by Tesla Motors, but the specifications and even the shape of the case seemed to match perfectly. I also saw the code DPST-2080AB A written somewhere.

As for the overall ESS, other than the DC-DC component, I don't think there would be any independent specs since Tesla Motors is the OEM. I would be interested to see your measurements (and glad to hear you performed them safely!).

I've seen the data sheet and it's a good reference to me. But i still have to measure, couse i want to investigate following quantities:

76b5-l-3c59.jpg


For that i neet the current output (both!) of the converter to sum up the power of all 12V consumer. The 12.5 and 13.5 volt seem to be quite stable, but i have to measure them too. Seems to be a lot of work because i am not gonna remove the hole ESS for that. In the labratory it will be save enough, but i don't have enough tools and stuff to do all the work -it is not a workshop for that purpose...

I will send you some results in future, but i am not sure if i am allowed to. maybe i cannot give too many information. i'll do my best!


Greetings! Falcristo
 
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Has anyone had the message "12v battery service required"?

I have had it frequently, I told Tesla before they did yearly service, but the didn't do anything with it.
Recently I was not able to unlock the door remote and had to use the key.

I tested with a fresh 12 volts battery and then I didn't get the message anymore. I will try to replace the 12 volts battery to see if that helps.
 
Yes - my auxiliary 12V battery died and needed replacement - covered under warranty.


Has anyone had the message "12v battery service required"?

I have had it frequently, I told Tesla before they did yearly service, but the didn't do anything with it.
Recently I was not able to unlock the door remote and had to use the key.

I tested with a fresh 12 volts battery and then I didn't get the message anymore. I will try to replace the 12 volts battery to see if that helps.
 
So reading above I'm a bit nervous. I'll take it in for service on Wednesday but is it safe to drive in the mean time?

Should be. The 12V battery is the bane of EVs and Hybrids. My Prius had two bad cells and it still ran fine--although when I took it into the dealer for regular service and a 12V battery (I just change them at five years) they said they had to jump start it. However, many Prius owners experience odd behaviour when the 12V battery is weak. I suspect it's less of a problem for Tesla owners because there's an actual warning.

I was hoping that because the Tesla is kind of "always on" that the 12V battery would be eliminated.
 
Your 12V aux battery isn't charging back up to 12V so that's why you're getting the warning - eventually it'll be so low that your key remote won't work and you have to manually lock/unlock the car (key hole is underneath the door so you may get your pants dirty!).

Should be. The 12V battery is the bane of EVs and Hybrids. My Prius had two bad cells and it still ran fine--although when I took it into the dealer for regular service and a 12V battery (I just change them at five years) they said they had to jump start it. However, many Prius owners experience odd behaviour when the 12V battery is weak. I suspect it's less of a problem for Tesla owners because there's an actual warning.

I was hoping that because the Tesla is kind of "always on" that the 12V battery would be eliminated.
 
Coincidence? I just came looking here because i got this this morning:

Yeah, funny. I hadn't heard of it before and just got it last week too. It was replaced under warranty a few days ago, so I'm glad it happened now rather than in a few months when my warranty runs out.

I couldn't open my car from outside either. But the top was off, so I just opened it from inside. Funny that I could unlock the car, but the outside door handle didn't work. If the top had been on, I could of course have used the key under the door trick.
 
At the Cupertino Earth Day Festival this year, someone got into the Coda on display, turned on the radio and got out. Unfortunately the dealer didn't realize it until it was time to go and he couldn't get the car to start. He had to get a jump for the Coda's drained 12v battery. He received it from the EV conversion parked next to the Coda!

There must be a better way than to have these great EVs with such great technology fail in the same way ICE cars do—drained or dead 12v batteries!
 
At the Cupertino Earth Day Festival this year, someone got into the Coda on display, turned on the radio and got out. Unfortunately the dealer didn't realize it until it was time to go and he couldn't get the car to start. He had to get a jump for the Coda's drained 12v battery. He received it from the EV conversion parked next to the Coda!

There must be a better way than to have these great EVs with such great technology fail in the same way ICE cars do—drained or dead 12v batteries!
Yeah, when I had my car in the Foster City Earth Day event I initially had it in ACC mode and was listening to music (while we were setting up and the public had not yet arrived). But then I started worrying about the 12V battery running the radio and charging my phone (music was from my phone) and turned the car ON so it would be pulling from the traction battery. Last thing I wanted was to run down the 12V. While I know where it is (behind the front bumper) I don't know how I'd get jumper cables to it.... Will the car start without the 12V battery and just the keyless entry dies or is the car stuck?
 
Responding to a post in the Model S forum:
Just a heads-up to you non-Roadster owners who might not know...
All the 2010 & newer Roadster have a sealed 12 volt battery. According the guys at Tesla it doesn't last very long and needs to be replaced every two years. This was the case with my personal Roadster too (it died and wouldn't let me unlock the car and I wasn't at home) when my car was right around 2 years old. They replaced it for free under warranty, but once the car is out of warranty it is going to be around $500 every two years (3 hours labor). The Model S will probably use a more expensive 12v battery but will probably require less labor to replace.
That price and frequency is ridiculous. There has to be a way for us to do this ourselves. Do they have to pull the entire front end off the car? I could see the battery when I was installing my HID headlamps but didn't really look to see how I could get to it to replace it. I get more than 2 years out of my motorcycle batteries and it takes a lot more effort to start a cantankerous 900cc Italian triple than to run the keyless entry system. This should be part of the also ridiculous $700 annual maintenance.
 
.....There must be a better way than to have these great EVs with such great technology fail in the same way ICE cars do—drained or dead 12v batteries!

Just use the same fix that modern ICE and hybrids use, automatically shut off accessory loads after 15 minutes of not "running" (or, more accurately, "charging").

GSP