Hi! I have a 2013 S, abt 150K miles…. Tesla says its not impacting car function but asking to replace the two screens as a solution for the glue leak (abt $1800 cost). I am debating getting a new car in a year or so and trying to decide if that’s worth spending that money or if there’s another way to just get the glue cleaned would greatly appreciate advice here.

Has anyone tried just getting the glue cleaned? Does the leaking glue damage anything else? Also how long will that be leaking (like how much glue is there and how long does it take for all of it)? Once the glue is all/mostly out, is there anything else that will get impacted? Thanks!

Took delivery of my model 3 a year ago, my mom did all the online paperwork and I didn’t really participate. My mom and I agreed she would do a down payment for the car, and I would handle the loan (she didn’t want a loan in her name).

But when she filled out all the delivery documentation, she wanted me to pick it up and everything and again the loan in my name, so she just filled out all the documentation with my name to make sure. (I have no idea what she did because I again, wasn’t there to do E-signatures except for the loan and pictures of drivers license). My mom has obviously never bought a car through a website vs a dealership, so idk if she knew everything she was doing, we should have went in person to dealer.

A year later we’re trying to claim the tax credit in her name, but can’t because the 15400 form is in the name of a 19 year old. Tesla has had me running around in circles trying to correct this which I get, but it’s literally just amending a name on a delivery document. I desperately need someone from Tesla to understand my situation, and to fix it. I went to my local Tesla store I took delivery from, and I think the guy thought I was trying by to do some kind of tax scam and didn’t take me seriously (was insanely rude and blew me off).

Configuration: 2022 Model Y Long Range, 7 Seat Interior, White Seats

My second row seat trim is now pulled out of place. I brought the car to Tesla and it's not part of warranty. They tucked the trim back in and it immediately fell out when I sat on seat. The recommendation from Tesla is to get a new seat base which is over $800 Canadian Dollars.

Anyone else faced this issue and was able to get it covered under warranty?

Problem description: degradation of battery

Over the last several months I have noticed that my range at 90% charge was losing about 3-4 miles of range over time. Today, however, after supercharging, I noticed that my range dropped by about 20+ miles at 90% charge. Tesla refuses to give me a detailed analysis as to what is causing this degradation. I would like to speak with the TESLA second their support personnel and have them give me an answer as to what is happening. I hope I am not driving a very expensive soon-to-be paperweight. Does anyone have a phone number for their senior support?

3 weeks ago , ready go out on a weekend but car has no life … no screen no doors operating nothing. On my Tesla app battery was at 32% with wall charging cable still in.
- 1st breakdown service arrived , tried boosting the LV battery screen came on but lasted only couple of seconds and back dead again… MX had sucked the life out of the battery pack brought in for jumps starting
- 2nd break down service - same happened again
- 3rd attempt by Tesla Ranger : same as above happened HOWEVER he managed to get the cable off manually
- Car wouldn’t move or switch on to even put it on a tow mode .
2 failed attempts to get the car on the truck - failed
3rd attempt - using sliders managed to get on to the truck and to local Tesla SC.
- Since then SC has estimated £1262 in diagnostic time but interesting part is that they still haven’t found the cause. They have sent another estimate for diagnosis to lower the HV battery to check for LV circuit integrity .

Through all this I’m left with no car as it’s out of warranty HOWEVER I have taken a private warranty from Warrantywise who need the actual diagnosis of the fault for me to avail the courtesy car.

My question : if they are unable to diagnose and having to lower the HV battery for further diagnostic time with no clear indication whether they are able to diagnose DESPITE the input of Master technician. Would
Will I now be eligible for a loaner car.
FYI :
Response from Tesla this far over almost last 3 weeks :

1. I believe your vehicle may have a communication network issue which can take longer to diagnose. Thanks, Tesla.l
2. I have been working on your vehicle this morning and found 2 potential issues. I have found one of the relays in the front Fuse box is being back fed power keeping one communication network awake. The second issue appears to be a short to power on another communication network. I have escalated my findings to a master technician as I believe there is a chance both these issues may be linked by a connector but want a second opinion before we pursue this. We will get back to you with additional labor time required when we have a better understanding from the master techs. Thanks, Tesla
3. Its hard to put a time on a full diagnosis at this point - there are many factors that come in to play such as response times from master technicians, pre requisite checks to carry out and checking, tracing and recording wiring checks. I am fairly confident I have narrowed down the issue, but I just want a second opinion regarding my diagnosis so far to confirm I am on the right tracks. I dont believe there to be an issue with the HV battery - I am unable to see anything in logs implying a physical failure of the battery cells. I suspect the issue may be with a logic connector connected to the BMS (battery monitoring system), but want a second opinion before we pursue this and quote you for further diagnosis time. Thanks, Tesla
4. Hi, the master technicians have replied to me today with further checks to carry out. We have identified 3 systems that are effected by the concern which we suspect to be a damaged connector (suspect corrosion), We now need to identify which connectors all effected systems run through and carry out further checks. Please relay this to your 3rd party warranty. Thanks, Tesla.

So far £800+ in diagnostic time
5. We have used the 2 hours you previously authorized to confirm a short to power on the powertrain CAN network, a Resistive HVIL fault and a the Chassis CAN being kept awake due to unexpected power on the Network. We now need a further 1 hour authorized to check all common connectors on the circuit that these 3 networks run through to try and locate the issue. This is not covered by battery warranty, this is not a battery related issue as previously stated, any low voltage circuitry is not covered by battery warranty. Please authorize this to additional time to enable me to proceed with diagnosis. If you do not wish to proceed further please arrange to have the vehicle collected by a recovery company. Thanks, Tesla
6.Hi , please review and accept the latest estimate if you wish to procee with diagnosis. This estimate is to remov the HV battery pack to inspect the low voltage logic connections attached to th pack. Thanks, Tesla.

I'm looking at a used card which says the FSD 'included package' in the Software console, does this mean it is enabled with the vehicle or can it be transferred by the previous owner to a different car ? I did see Tesla allowed for a one time transfer before, hence the apprehension that the feature could be disabled at any point if I buy the used (2022 model) car.

Thanks in advance for all your valuable inputs which help me in deciding whether to buy or not.

I bought my Tesla Model 3 in Dec 2020 and have so far spent not one dime on service or repairs of any kind.
Based on the articles i have read in newspapers I must be unique.
I havent been able to detect any rattles or defects of any kind.
Having said that, when tesla dowloaded the auto pilot to my car i admit to hating every moment it was installed.
It kept telling me i was a lousy driver and would brake suddenly when it saw another car or even person.
And if i have to keep playing with the steering wheel all the time, what is the point of having it at all.
TY Tesla for removing it.

I am looking for a tech or repair shop that can replace my front main harness on 2017 MX, preferably in Atlanta, GA. Any recommendations?

I have a 2020 Model Y and my air conditioning only works when moving. When stopped for more than a minute, the air begins to warm. From my research, it would indicate my condenser fan is not working/blowing.

Has anyone had a similar issue with their condenser fan? Not sure if it is a sensor or relay or other issue. I have a tesla service appt set up, but a bit nervous as to what this repair might cost. Appreciate any feedback or experience!

Hello all,

I accidentally hit and jumped the curb, damaging my right front wheel (first pic) and back wheel (last pic), as well as the front aero shield.

Tesla quoted a total of $1850 for replacing two wheels (rims + tires) and the front aero shield. In my opinion, the back tire is safe to drive.

What do you guys think? Where can I get a wheel from outside? It is safe to drive without changing the wheel as my car is only driven 11k miles.

Hi All. Wondering if mechanical noise when turning the steering wheel is normal? Only just noticed it when stationary or slow speed manoeuvres. Coming from inside the car so not the ball joints etc. cars only done 3,000 miles. Just curious if the steering wheel is silent in other cars or makes a noise.

Hi,
First time Tesla 'Owner'.
Since mine is a company car Lease, It turns out the Leasing Company is designated 'Owner' of the car and so has the 'Owner' account.
The account I received seems to be a driver account.
Apart from not being able to add new 'Driver accounts' to my car (trying to get that sorted with the leasing company :-s... ) I wanted to understand what other differences there were between an owner account & a driver account?

I read something about charging statistics? What are those?
Any other differences?

D.

To this point I have only done Tesla Corsa's but would like to get more track time, I need the practice.

Buttonwillow and Willow Springs are close but when I review theirs and Speed Ventures calendars it is not easy to tell what HPDE days I can join?

For those of you that track your EV in my area what have you participated in what should I be looking for?
I have not had the confidence to mix in with ICE cars yet... anything to worry about, tactics, differences from EV only sessions...

Thanks

New owner of 2024 model LR and the alert “auto vehicle hold disabled”. Any one else have this issue. Tesla says it’s a firmware issue that will be fixed with an update. When does that happen. Been like his for a month.

Hi,
my personal ID will expire in few days but my registration for tesla app is not finished yet (3 - 5 days), should I wait with issuing of a new personal ID until the registration is finished?

Hello, I am looking at getting my first Tesla. Going with either a 2017 or 2018 model S 75D or 90D. I am not sure if this is the right area for this thread, but I do have a question about the EV tax credit when making a purchase for a used EV. I am located in Florida and I am aware of the credit guidelines for income and the car having to be $25K or under in price. But does anybody know or have any experience on getting the $4000 tax credit upfront at time of purchase? I've seen a few discussions about this but it seems like there is nothing for sure documented if it's possible, so anybody here have any experience using that $4000 upfront for like a down payment when you purchase a used Tesla? If so, how did you make it happen with the dealership, what was all involved?

Does anyone know how to input the IO charge pricing in Tesla app as the off peak time change everyday? I am wondering whether this will make it harder to calculate the charging expenses, as at the moment most of the time the IO smart charging schedule falls outside the off peak time I have given (1130-530) in the charge stats app.

Where can i buy 2023 model 3 pre painted front bumpers in Canada?

Greetings to all

CHG_d005

I got this code on my Model S 70D

looked all over for a clue but without any lucky.

Do you guys have any idea?

All the best

I have been hanging out but need to jump in. Sent $40. I have had a tesla since 2021. Me Model S 2021 and wife P90D 2016. She insisted on the nose cone.
I want to make a Tesla commercial and email it all over. With community advise. Need help. Im a doc in PA and let patients drive Tessie and they are never the same again. I explain dog mode and they are shocked. That’s why the long wait.
The commercial opens with a sweaty lady a bit upset talking to sweaty husband. The air is out and it may be Florida or better Arizona. She asks, ”where is the dog!?” He replies, “he’s in the Tesla.” She says “if air isn’t fixed I’m sleeping with the dog.” Then fast pan to dog in tesla in the garage and the screen says, “My driver will back momentarily. It is 67°” Then title or voice says Dog Mode. It runs over 15 seconds so message goes to reptile brain that buys stuff.
When I tell people with pets about dog mode they drop their jaw. I was at ectrify or some roadshow. I was at Tesla Booth and went up to a couple and asked if they had a dog and they nodded. I asked if they knew about dog mode. When I explained they went nuts over the car maybe an X.
There 100 million dog and cat owners in USA. They will spend $30,000 on chemotherapy for a 13 year old cat with Lymphoma. Don't heckle me I think its a good choice.
Commercials will teach people what it is to go electric. My patients are not watching utube videos of Tesla on iPad brushing teeth evey night. Within a month of this they will want a Tesla. Offer picture of the pooch or puss on trunk lid. There will 100 million Teslas in shopping centers all looking alike.
THEN, after a month you do cats. The puss won’t get in cause of dog mode. Voice says Camp mode for cats to stay cool and not get stolen.
Then everyone gets hired back at Tesla.

Hello, first post here. I am finally about to completely commit here to my first Tesla vehicle. I am thinking of trying a used model first I am mainly interested in the model X or possibly a model S. The car that I'm looking at currently is a 2017 model X 75D or 90D. One thing I can't get a for sure answer on and there seems to be many different ways to go about this but I want a clear answer on if a 2017 model X 75 or 90d would be eligible for the acceleration boost upgrade. I know it's called a few different things online. I have heard that it makes ithd 0-60 1 second faster. The standard 0 to 60 on the model X 75D is actually slower around six seconds, so I was hoping to possibly download an acceleration boost. Does anybody have any good information or articles on this? I would like to know about each upgrade and how much it cost and also how to go about doing it . Thank you!

To confirm, my wheels are balanced and are not bent. This issue all started when all my ABS lights, traction lights etc went off and brought into Tesla. Many front suspension parts were replaced including the upper control arm and front wheel speed sensors.

After this service visit, my car has been emitting heavy vibrations, almost like a shake into the steering and both driving pedals. What’s worse is it shakes over 60mph, becoming undrivable at nearly 75mph.

I decided to take a look under the car and when I spun the front wheel, a clicking noise came from the driveshaft. Seems to be clicking where the axle and driveshaft meet.

Would anyone happen to know if this is the cause for shaking? If so, any way to remedy this? I am currently at 70,000 miles so general warranty is out, but I still have drivetrain warranty. Would this be covered?

Hi all,

Last night I was driving with a friend and my Tesla M3 highland randomly said “I call shotgun” while we were talking.

Has anyone had the car do this before? Is it some Easter egg situation? I vaguely recall that we were talking about how good the car would be at drive-by’s, on account of how quiet it is.

Yesterday I got in my car i noticed that when i tried to enter, the driver side door handle wouldn't come out, the back driver side door handle was also not auto presenting. I went on the other side of the car and the passenger side front and back handles were presenting . I crawled in to the driver seat by climbing 7
In through the passenger side door and i started driving home. On the driver side i noticed that my window was down. When i tried rolling up my window it would not go up, infact I was unable to control all 4 windows from the driver side control panel. It was as if i completely lost power to that door. Now i can no longer open the driver side door from the outside and the handle will not automatically go in by itself. I notice that when the driver door is open, i can still control the other 4 windows but as soon as the door is fully closed it loses power again. If anybody could give me some advice id appreciate it this car is ruining my life more and more every day with these insane issues that its having.

I have ABS and ESP issues on my Model S 2015. The last 6 months I had error codes sporadically. See attached pictures for all codes.


It started for 6 months ago with error codes just for a few days and then it worked for some weeks. Especially in the mornings after a night with moisture. And then more frequently error codes was occurring. After driving in heavy rain it worked for almost two months without error codes. Then the error codes came back.

Measured front abs sensors and left sensor showed 5,8 MOhm. Right sensor showed 1,3kOhm. Decided to order a new abs sensor for left side.

When new abs sensor (Febi Bilstein) arrived it showed 9.0 MOhm. Decided then to replace left abs sensor front as this showed 1,3 kOhm. This did not work.

Ordered one more sensor and replaced also abs sensor right side front. That did also not work.

Now I have measure also the rear abs sensors and they show around 9 MOhm both sides. I also measured the contacts in the car and all four contacts shows around 0,9 MOhm.

After I replaced the first abs sensor the error codes does not disappear. I start to believe that my new front abs sensors (Febi Bilstein) makes the error. I also tried to turn the wheel and measure AC voltage but it’s not possible to get any reading at any position.

I do have diagonistic cable ethernet, but no access to Toolbox.

Could the error codes be caused by the ECU for ABS or the new abs sensors or should I go for replacing the rear abs sensors as well?

Any help forward would be highly appreciated!