I already saw this thread which tells me not to buy the Ohmu lithium battery
and
Q1: My battery is almost 5 years old, so I understand it went past its expected life. Not sure if it's best to get the exact same, or if 5 years later there is something a bit better? Can I find a better GLA 12V battery from a 3rd battery, maybe even cheaper, or am I better off going with the Tesla defaut OEM replacement?
Q2: right now I have a mobile service appt for a new battery this sunday. Is the price of service+battery reasonable (didn't get a quote due to thanksgiving), or am I better off going to some auto parts store and getting a group 51r battery, and swapping it myself?
I'm just a bit worried because I need my car to work for a few days and can't afford to be stranded if the current 12V battery really dies after I drive somewhere and park the car.
In the meantime, I got around the 12V low battery warnings by disconnecting the 12V battery, disconnecting the 200A DC-DC converter to reset the car and the 12V low message, and using a separate 6A 12V charger to boost the battery a bit back up. I know it's a temporary fix, but the good news is that it brought back the battery to 14V for now, so the car is happy and the "car may shut off while you're driving" message went away, and hopefully it will last long enough until I get the replacement battery.
On that topic, do you know why on earth the car would shut off when it's already started and the DC-DC converter is active and the car driving? Is that even a thing, or is that a fake warning that really means that if you park your car and the DC-DC shuts off, the 12V standby may be too low to allow reconnecting the DC-DC contactor, leaving you stranded, but not on the side of some freeway?
Update on replacing OEM 12v lead-acid battery with lithium?
Tesla (unlike every other ICE car I've ever heard of) actually has a system to monitor voltage and detect when the battery is on it's way out long before it actually fails, in most cases. Every Honda made in the last several years with auto idle stop, for example, measures the internal...
teslamotorsclub.com
Q1: My battery is almost 5 years old, so I understand it went past its expected life. Not sure if it's best to get the exact same, or if 5 years later there is something a bit better? Can I find a better GLA 12V battery from a 3rd battery, maybe even cheaper, or am I better off going with the Tesla defaut OEM replacement?
Q2: right now I have a mobile service appt for a new battery this sunday. Is the price of service+battery reasonable (didn't get a quote due to thanksgiving), or am I better off going to some auto parts store and getting a group 51r battery, and swapping it myself?
I'm just a bit worried because I need my car to work for a few days and can't afford to be stranded if the current 12V battery really dies after I drive somewhere and park the car.
In the meantime, I got around the 12V low battery warnings by disconnecting the 12V battery, disconnecting the 200A DC-DC converter to reset the car and the 12V low message, and using a separate 6A 12V charger to boost the battery a bit back up. I know it's a temporary fix, but the good news is that it brought back the battery to 14V for now, so the car is happy and the "car may shut off while you're driving" message went away, and hopefully it will last long enough until I get the replacement battery.
On that topic, do you know why on earth the car would shut off when it's already started and the DC-DC converter is active and the car driving? Is that even a thing, or is that a fake warning that really means that if you park your car and the DC-DC shuts off, the 12V standby may be too low to allow reconnecting the DC-DC contactor, leaving you stranded, but not on the side of some freeway?