Wall connector, ready for install. Submitted installation rebate to Duke Energy.

Model 3 Performance (2024)
So decided to go red this time, sticking with white seats, may change my mind on seat colour.

On another note
I have a 2020 Model 3 Perfromance (blue with white seats) with 36,000km's on it in perfect condition...seats look like new including drivers seat, never thrashed, paint has had PPF from new....basically looks like new.

Hi folks, while enjoying our honeymoon driving round Scotland, a couple of days ago I couldn’t start the car in the morning because pressing the brake did not switch it on. There is a ‘Car off’ message bottom right of the drivers display. I’m pressing the brake pedal which normally starts the car but I was getting the message ‘Press brake pedal to switch gears’. I’m pressing the brake pedal. Both screens and everything by else appears to be working ok.
Starting the car from the app doesn’t work.
Resetting the screens via the scroll wheels doesn’t work.
Eventually the car just started and we continued our trip. The car drives perfectly and the brake pedal is working fine.
The next morning it started fine.
However, exactly the same problem happened again this morning but this time the car wouldn’t start after a while so I called Tesla support and they got me to switch the car off and back on again fully which fixed the problem.
I have started the process of having it serviced, but it is out of warranty and I’m guessing it’s not going to be cheap, whatever the problem is.
Has anyone experienced this before? Is it just software? Is it because the car is cold first thing in the morning? Is there a problem with the brake pedal?
Many thanks for any help that you can give.

I’m very lucky in that most of the places I go to work have 22kW chargers but two industrial sites have not go them installed yet.

So I’m reduced to plugging in to a 13a socket for the day I’m there .

I had enough of this and invested some time and a bit of money .


They all have 63a 3 Phase the big red sockets . So I have made a 63a 3 phase to 32a commando lead .

3 phase end


1 phase end 32a commando to 32a Tesla



Result 7kW charging

I also have the 16a Tesla and Eur to 16a but I have not needed to use them yet

Got a flat recently and my Tesla started leaking, what’s this part called? Can I just use jb weld?

How do I get my cruise control back in mu 2020 MSP? Simple question...

M

Hi All

Recently ordered the MYRWD and waiting allocation of VIN. Exciting times ahead.

I am looking at charging options and wondering if some of you can help!

Car usage will most likely be limited to <50-75km per day maybe the occassional 100km weekend day.

Got a single phase home, i know few options are either:
1. UMC and plug it to normal power point but will be a slow charge
2. Get a 32a line installed by electrician and use UMC to get max 7kw output
3. Install 32a and get Tesla Wall charger

My question would be if I were to go with the 3rd option, are there benefits of single phase home using Tesla Wall Charger as I can't maximise the charge output of 11kw? Not planning to get a 2nd EV yet so no power sharing.

I feel like going with option 1 to save cost of install but also trying to see benefits of the other options!

For context I have solar as well so intend to use its output as much as possible and am in Perth.

Any ideas or best approach?

So we were lucky enough to snatch one of the OG SRs (7 seater) back in 2021 when they were released for like a 6 week period. Car has been great these three years, zero complaints or issues, but we have been toying with the thought of trading it for a newer Y LR.

That said, given the relative scarcity of this SR (no idea how many were produced but it couldn't have been many) and the fact that we haven't really had any issues, is this something that would be worth holding on to?

*Would also love to hear from some other original SR owners on their thoughts and experiences

Which one and why?

My solar system started operation on June 10 last year, so this is my first April with solar. March was great - I made as much as I used, but still drew grid power some days and sent power to the grid some days. April has been really good. On April 6, I drew 15.1 kwh from the grid. Since that day, I've not taken grid power and sent 285 kwh back to the grid - after filling PWs and charging my car to 80%. Other than wishing for a way to save those kwh for later without net metering (still in place in MD), I am planning on not drawing grid power until sometime in October and thinking that I'll not be billed for power until some time in November. We will see....
Any others saying a temporary goodbye to grid power?

I'm thinking of trading in my current 2021 M3P for the 2024 M3P. I'm hoping to get some feedback from my fellow Tesla owners. My M3P has 30k on it, no accidents, dents dings...VERY clean with a full winter set up of wheels and tires. I owe about $29k with a rate of 2.49%, less than three years left on the loan. I have a black on white which I really love. In order to qualify for the $7,500 I need to either go stealth grey on white or black on black (I would most likely go black on black even though grey helps hide paint defects). I just put new rubber on the car (of course). Tesla is offering me $28k for the trade (not a hard number yet) which makes the trade in a wash. My payments will be within a few dollars of each other though I'll pay more in interest overall. I like the ventilated seats and the new front end. Not sure if the battery pack is the same as my existing one, HP seems to be the same? Am I stupid for considering this?

I haven’t seen @Zilla91 since April 17th? Hope he is Ok?

I have no USS with EAP, can anyone advise when Autopark should be available???
or what version of Software should have it?

EAP customers have had the car for upto 18 months and paid for EAP with 60% of features still missing.
I mainly got it for the Summon and Smart Summon feature, but who knows when that will arrive, especially when they cant get the simple stuff right.

I have a 10 cm dent on the bottom of a Model X boot (photo below). Tesla's body shop quoted $6,757 to repair it (some $4,811 for labour). I'm hesitant to make an insurance claim given premiums have been doubling each year and it's a $2,000 excess. Can anyone suggest a reasonable Sydney-based repair option?

Hi,

I'm (28YO) getting my license and have to buy a car in advance so I can continue driving on my own immediately after passing the driving test. Would you recommend the Model 3 for a P-plater? Everyone keeps telling me to buy a dumpster on wheels as my first car... Even if I crash, wouldn't comprehensive insurance cover the repair?

Sorry if this was answered before, I really tried searching.

My factory reset option is greyed out (see pic below). Other threads here and on reddit indicate that this may have something to do with FSD Beta + FSD subscription, and that the only way past it is to bring the car into a service center to have them reset it. I'm selling the car private party tomorrow, so I don't have time to mess with scheduling a service appointment. What all do I need to remove?

• Bluetooth audio - unpaired all devices
• Wifi - forgot networks near my house. Unfortunately, networks that aren't currently nearby don't show up, so I guess the buyer could hop on my parents Wifi in the future if they wanted lol
• Keys - deleted phone keys
• Homelink - removed all saved
• Cleared browser data

My cloud profile and all associated data is still showing up (home, recent addresses, Spotify login, etc), but my wife's disappeared when I removed her as a driver. i'm assuming that mine and associated data will disappear when I transfer the car off of my account as well?

Anything I'm forgetting? Anyone else have this issue?

Hey all! First time poster, new (used) Tesla 2016.5 Model S owner here. So far the forums been great, hoping to get a little help.

So, I love the car, but the A/C is only working while the car is moving. I live in NC, and with summer around the corner this is not looking good!
My question is, is this normal? I’ve read other posts mentioning the car sending A/C air to the battery while supercharging at times. But this is happening while charging, while parked, at stoplights etc. It does occasionally work right first thing when I get in (regardless of movement) but on a whole the air only runs cold when I’m driving. Fan moves air, everything seems to be fine otherwise…

Any suggestions or information? Is this the way Teslas A/C is supposed to work?

I mean run all seasons in Colorado winters and they work great but “yes all seasons are crap”

So multiple sightings of a Cybertruck driving around Sydney, obviously just part of the promotional tour they have been doing around the region. Will be cool to actually see it in person, hopefully they bring it down to CBR.

This was my second time buying a Tesla. The first time last year was weird, but I guess I was lucky I walked in the SC and the guy took car of it on his side. Happened to be a competent dude I must admit.

I am now buying a Model X. With a trade in. The whole process in the app is so crazy. Multiple messages, in the app, and separate SMSs on my cell phone and emails. Several random Tesla people jumping in, appearing to be completely incompetents, little kids. Thus the title "ninjas". I sometimes laugh. It's is so frustratig, yet, funny. None of these kids has a clue what is going on. It is such a mess. None is taking responsibility and coordinating the communication chain, and tasks. Big mess. I ask for names, and must have gotten 12 various names already in my messages on app, SMS on phone, and emails.

I could go on and on the various items, but it's not productive. For example, my trade in has an outstanding loan. At purchase in the app, they asked me to enter the loan number, lender name, outstanding balance amount, monthly payments, etc. etc. which I promptly did. But, they put the entire trade in amount offer (disregarding the outstanding loan amount) as a down payment. Obviously that is not right. Now they have to reapply for my credit. Insane. They also asked me just today less than two days from scheduled delivery to get a 10-year loan payoff quote and submit to them. While already submitted my loan info at the beginning of the process in the app. I have been buying and trading in cars for 25+ years, with traditional dealers, and they all took care of payoff amount with the current lender for the trade in on their side. I simply had to give them the details on my current loan.

There is so many of these things. One more thing, the monthly payment (given the loan amount, APR, and the 60 month loan duration) is off by a few dollars on the upside. Regardless of the online calculator I use or my own spreadsheet. Every single one of them. How can they get it so wrong? It's only about 5 bucks a month, but, just for the principle of it.

You would think they would take care of a person buying $80K+++ vehicle. But it does not appear they give a schiit, and want my money

I am now thinking of backing out of this transaction. Fcuk my $250 deposit. I love my MYP and really want the X, but I don't think I can put up with this BS. I have already wasted hours of my time dealing with this. Never have encounted such a disjointed process, company, and people. This is insane. I understand there is a trade-in involved (with an oustanding loan), but, if you cannot handle this "complication", don't offer it.

So do we think we will be getting a subscription model in the uk like the yanks or will it always be £3400 or £6800

I love upgrades and I can see me one night after a few diplomatico rums hitting that buy button but hopefully not

and I’m also surprised this hasn’t been hacked and sold by other sellers so I’m hoping it comes in under £100 including the boost and premium connectivity am I living in hope ?

Close-up of the bottom of the back-end.

Yesterday started as a no good very bad day. I got out to my garage at 6:30 am ready to head to work and am greeted by a “vehicle may not restart” error on the screen. I also note that the car did not charge overnight. I sit down and try to back out of the driveway and sure enough, the car won’t start. I try a few reboots and…nothing. There are a slew of error messages but it’s clear the car is dead.

My 12V battery is 7 months old (OEM Tesla) so I don’t think it’s that.

I call in to work to cancel my schedule and call a tow. I’ve got 97,000 miles on the car so no Tesla warranty for me.

The cool thing was that in the app, my local SC had a 9:15 appointment available, so I book it and the tow truck was able to drop it off there at 8:45.

End result is that it was both a bad PTC and a failed 12v. I can’t help but think that something about my car’s particular failure mode took out the 12V battery but I’m not sure how that would have happened.

Major Kudos to the Golden Valley MN SC for fixing my vehicle the same day. They warrantied the 12V battery and I had a brand new PTC installed. Cost $963. Cost of tow: $268.

While it really sucks that my car failed and I needed a tow, this was the first major repair that my 3 needed ever so I’m totally OK with it. I’ve gone 97k miles with no oil changes, no brake jobs, saved almost $30k in fuel over that time period and had a major car failure where I got the car back the same day for a little over $1k out of pocket. That doesn’t suck.

So add me to the list of folks with a dead PTC but when I big picture this and think about my total Tesla experience, it’s definitely a glass is half full situation.

Pretty disgusted with FUD from Fox... The local news station in Seattle keeps the story to the basic facts, while the national fox website diverges the story into FUD about FSD being on a free trial. I detest this sort of FUD because it's dishonest and misleads the public. It's bad enough that the original story mentions autopilot. In each case I can think of, the driver says AP was active and it's found that it was not active. Of course the sensationalist media loves to tell us how AP will kill everyone.