Buying a Model 3 prioritise age or mileage?

[globetrotter77]

Hi
I'm thinking of buying a used model 3 but can't decide which year and mileage to go for.
As I understand it, 2018-20 had chrome and no heat pump, both of which put me off, so am thinking 2021 (or late 2020 refresh) onwards.
Also, as far as I can tell, the most noticeable difference between a 2021 and a 2022 is the switch to Ryzen processors and the removal of sensors, but perhaps there is something else I am missing that makes a 2022 more attractive?

So my main question is this:
Am I better off with a lower mileage (say, 35k) 2021 M3 or a higher (but by no means astronomical) mileage (around 45-50k) 2022?
As far as I can tell from A Better Route Planner, the range and charging speed improvements of a 2022 M3 make all of 3 mins difference on a theoretical drive from Exeter to Edinburgh.
Also, I think I'm right in saying at 50k a car will be out of the comprehensive warranty?

Any thoughts? Many thanks in advance!

 

[MrBadger]

Basic warranty is 4/years or 50k miles. So potentially quite close to car you are considering.

Battery (drivetrain?) is longer but model dependent, but longer/further than you are considering.

 

[GlynG]

We all have different needs and preferences, budgets and aversions - so which is the right car only you can decide. If you don't like the chrome then exclude completely the up to 2020 models and look for a late 2020 or set 21 plate as a must have - that way you are removing from consideration and debate the pros and cons of an earlier car.
Bear in mind that just because something, a feature or addition to the car is newer that its automatically better, an improvement or an upgrade - many times its just different and Tesla is constantly removing equipment from the cars to reduce production costs - Elon is the ultimate penny pincher.

Dependant on how long you keep a car is also a factor - this will impact on future repair costs or at the very least - the potential for repair costs. The car has a 50K miles bumper to bumper warranty (or 4 years), a 5 yrs warranty on the restraints system and 100000 miles for standard range/ 120000 miles for LR and performance battery and motor(s) warranty.

Do your own research rather than take as gospel all you will read online, there are many people who state things as absolute facts when in reality its just bulls**** - a phrase they heard that they like - so plagiarised it and regurgitated it, without any real knowledge.
The most irritating to me is the comparison of the resistive heater to the heat pump, loads of claims about how much better the heat pump is - but dig deep into the facts and for me I would exclude a preference of heater type to be a deciding factor in my choice of car. Also, a resistive heater failure out of warranty - well you can pick them up as a used part and swap the heater pack out inside the car without breaking the bank - Heat pump failure - that's an expensive Tesla only jobbie.

Choose your car on what fits your lifestyle and budget, plus the condition, a newer car with all the latest kit that's been abused - take that as the average lease car, ex rental etc is less attractive than a one owner, low mileage pristine example - something that's obviously been taken care of - and don't let the inclusion of EAP or FSD into swaying your choice or price prepared to pay because in the UK its crap - it isn't fit for purpose.

Lastly - some people are plate snobs, the newer the plate the better they feel about the car - If thats the case then focus your search on what you really need the car to have, what you would like it to have - and which model specifically - then look for best price, best condition, lowest miles, and service history.

 

[globetrotter77]

Basic warranty is 4/years or 50k miles. So potentially quite close to car you are considering.

Battery (drivetrain?) is longer but model dependent, but longer/further than you are considering.

Thanks! And as I understand it battery and drivetrain (Not sure what exactly is included in drivetrain) is 8 years or 120k miles on a M3 LR - will have plenty of that warranty. I guess a mid 2021 car with less than 40k miles will likely give me a full year of warranty as I won't do 10k miles before the 4 years are up, I doubt.

 

[globetrotter77]

We all have different needs and preferences, budgets and aversions - so which is the right car only you can decide. If you don't like the chrome then exclude completely the up to 2020 models and look for a late 2020 or set 21 plate as a must have - that way you are removing from consideration and debate the pros and cons of an earlier car.
Bear in mind that just because something, a feature or addition to the car is newer that its automatically better, an improvement or an upgrade - many times its just different and Tesla is constantly removing equipment from the cars to reduce production costs - Elon is the ultimate penny pincher.

Dependant on how long you keep a car is also a factor - this will impact on future repair costs or at the very least - the potential for repair costs. The car has a 50K miles bumper to bumper warranty (or 4 years), a 5 yrs warranty on the restraints system and 100000 miles for standard range/ 120000 miles for LR and performance battery and motor(s) warranty.

Do your own research rather than take as gospel all you will read online, there are many people who state things as absolute facts when in reality its just bulls**** - a phrase they heard that they like - so plagiarised it and regurgitated it, without any real knowledge.
The most irritating to me is the comparison of the resistive heater to the heat pump, loads of claims about how much better the heat pump is - but dig deep into the facts and for me I would exclude a preference of heater type to be a deciding factor in my choice of car. Also, a resistive heater failure out of warranty - well you can pick them up as a used part and swap the heater pack out inside the car without breaking the bank - Heat pump failure - that's an expensive Tesla only jobbie.

Choose your car on what fits your lifestyle and budget, plus the condition, a newer car with all the latest kit that's been abused - take that as the average lease car, ex rental etc is less attractive than a one owner, low mileage pristine example - something that's obviously been taken care of - and don't let the inclusion of EAP or FSD into swaying your choice or price prepared to pay because in the UK its crap - it isn't fit for purpose.

Lastly - some people are plate snobs, the newer the plate the better they feel about the car - If thats the case then focus your search on what you really need the car to have, what you would like it to have - and which model specifically - then look for best price, best condition, lowest miles, and service history.

All great food for thought! I must admit, I had assumed heat pump was just better full stop. Hadn't thought about repair costs.
I think ultimately it will come down to availability of a good quality car in my area. Loads on the market, but not that many within striking distance of me unfortunately. But I am ready to pounce when they appear! Think forgetting plate snobbery and Ryzen snobbery is probably a good idea. Thanks for your input!

 

[Dilly]

I wouldn’t dismiss an early 2020. The lack of heatpump doesn’t make much odds with mine. I regularly get better than 4 miles/kWh in summer but it probably is more hefty in the winter. I like the interior better than the newer ones too.

 

[GSP]

My take is:

1) Get the Ryzen processor if you can. To run the latest software 10 years from now, you will want as much computer hp as you can get.
2) EV powertrains can go lots of miles, >300k, but battery life can be limited by calendar age. I expect 10 year life, and hope for 15 years, depending on how lucky I am and how well the pack is designed to resist water intrusion over time.
3) Bumper to Bumper warranty and battery warranty mileage limits should be considered for late model cars, like @globetrotter77 is looking for, but for older out of B2B warranty cars, I would go with one that has the least time on its (original or replacement) battery.
4) I have a 2018 M3 with resistive heater, and a 2022 MY with heat pump. They both work fine in Midwest USA winters.

Happy car shopping!

GSP

 

[dandiggz]

If going for the 2022 and expecting to get a Ryzen then I would double check in person on the info screen or make sure it was built in January 2022 or later. I purchased a 2022 M3LR thinking it had a Ryzen chip and I was disappointed to find out it was built in December 2021 and still had the intel.

 

[ringi]

If you will drive low mileage then prioritise age, if you will drive high mileage then prioritise low mileage (assuming you will keep car until not economic to repair).

 

[RedMod3]

I wouldn’t dismiss an early 2020. The lack of heatpump doesn’t make much odds with mine. I regularly get better than 4 miles/kWh in summer but it probably is more hefty in the winter. I like the interior better than the newer ones too.

Mine is the same, a late 2020. No heat pump, and to me that is an asset as potential repair costs are less. I use an immersion heater to heat my hot water, I would never fit a fit pump to do that as repair costs are so high if needed. I may sell mine if I go for the new M3P, it has an extra Hansshow display for WAZE.

 

[SR-Plus]

Mine is the same, a late 2020. No heat pump, and to me that is an asset as potential repair costs are less. I use an immersion heater to heat my hot water, I would never fit a fit pump to do that as repair costs are so high if needed. I may sell mine if I go for the new M3P, it has an extra Hansshow display for WAZE.

You still have a heating functionality in your non-heat pump car. That could also go wrong, any part can go wrong really.

 

[FatFalcon]

I've driven quite a few 3s. I would say the biggest day-to-day difference maker is the computer. If you plan on keeping it for a long time, I would definitely look for a Ryzen.

 

[SGPips]

Ryzen is a definite bonus.

I don't know when the heated steering wheel become standard fit? Or was it always there in long range cars?

Also the matrix lights are really nice.

For the standard range the move to LFP batteries makes them a much more attractive proposition than a non LFP standard range.

If the car is still in the 4 year/50 k manufacturers warranty you have the option to buy the Tesla extended warranty which while quite expensive might be more relaxing.

 

[globetrotter77]

@FatFalcon @SGPips
I guess I do keep cars a long time. Watching youtube comparisons, the intel Atom seems fine for navigation and settings, but not great for netflix/youtube/browsing. Whereas Ryzen does the lot smoothly (with a small but noticeable loss of range?) Does that chime with you? My current thinking is to go for 2021 (intel atom but with heat pump) and not blow the entire budget in case a bit of work is needed down the line.

 

[father_of_6]

I've driven quite a few 3s. I would say the biggest day-to-day difference maker is the computer. If you plan on keeping it for a long time, I would definitely look for a Ryzen.

Ryzen is a definite bonus.

I have an Intel... no issues with it. It's not sluggish in any way. Perhaps subsequent updates will introduce enough bloat that it will eventually feel slow.

I don't know when the heated steering wheel become standard fit? Or was it always there in long range cars?

Heated wheels were added somewhere around February/March of 2021.

 

[father_of_6]

intel Atom seems fine for navigation and settings, but not great for netflix/youtube/browsing. Whereas Ryzen does the lot smoothly

Ahh... I don't do much streaming video, so perhaps that's where the sluggishness will be encountered.

 

[gt2690b]

I would pick newer car with higher mileage my biggest fear with low miles car is someone just left it plugged in at 100% in 100 degree heat destroying the battery so doesn't matter that the miles are low

 

[globetrotter77]

Ahh... I don't do much streaming video, so perhaps that's where the sluggishness will be encountered.

TBH nor would I stream much if ever.

 

[RedMod3]

You still have a heating functionality in your non-heat pump car. That could also go wrong, any part can go wrong really.

Very true, but fixing a resistive coil is likely to be much less expensive than fixing a heat pump.

 

[GlynG]

I would pick newer car with higher mileage my biggest fear with low miles car is someone just left it plugged in at 100% in 100 degree heat destroying the battery so doesn't matter that the miles are low

I am bewildered when i read comments like this, an assumption that seems senseless, no evidence, but a car that has low miles creates a fear the battery may be destroyed. I just can see the link or the rational behind that logic

As for cooking the battery, Ill say it slow and loud - IF THE BATTERY TEMPERATURE ROSE TO AN UNACCEPTABLY HIGHT TEMPERATURE THE CAR WOULD AUTOMATICALLY ENGAGE THE PUMPS AND AIR CON TO ACTIVELY COOL IT. Its what they do.

It matters not if the car is parked and left for days, it matters not if cabin overheat is selected or not - everything is monitored all the time - which is why there is always a low drain on the battery state of charge, it never sleeps completely.