I had a 51R from OReilly auto that had the vent on the correct side.
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Will this 12V lead acid battery work for OEM replacement?
- Thread starter topboxman
- Start date
Have been running a DiehardEV battery designed for the Model 3 with no charging issues no warnings or messages.
Thats great news. I see one at O'Reilly web site with vent hole. It's pricey at $240.
This is AGM battery which may or may not work well with Tesla. But isn't AGM also a lead acid battery even though the charge profiles may be slightly different.
Peter
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davewill
Active Member
I think they changed to lithium batteries because their cars cycle the lead-acid batteries too much and therefore they don't last as long as they should. Lithium batteries don't mind being cycled, indeed they like that better than being topped off all the time.
I wonder if the charger in newer Tesla using Lithium is different than older Tesla using lead acid batteries? If all they did was software upgrade and not change the charger, I wonder if the same can be done for older Tesla to replace lead acid with Lithium batteries using software upgrade?
Peter
Peter
AGM is also a lead battery but different plate designs. The DiehardEV battery at Advance Auto is also an AGM and is deigned to the model 3 had has the vent with adapter installed (at least mine was) and also works fine with now warnings. The resting voltage of the AGM is .2-.3 higher than the basic lead battery and the Ohmmu Lithium also has a resting voltage at about 13.3. I have been using an Ohmmu V4+ battery lately and the charging seems to be the same as the rest. The car upon wakeup will pull 7-9 amps (momentarily as high as 25 amps) then reverse and start charging at 7-9 amps until the battery is at 14.8 volts (according to the indications on the service mode page). The Ohmmu will also indicate about 14.7 volts. Amp draw goes to 0 showing 100%. Then after a bit the car draws 7-9 amps until volts read about 13.3-13.4 amp draw goes to zero and it stays there until the next startup. Personally, if I was going the lead route I would go DiehardEV since it is designed for Tesla and not starting an ICE car. It's CCA is lower but still well above minimum specs and worked just fine. I also had the O'Reilly for a while gave it to a friend in need and install the DiehardEV until Ohmmu seemed to finally get things figured out.
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The software (at least the FSDBeta) is the same version if a 12 volt system model 3 or a 15.5 volt lithium system example model Y. The Tesla Lithium is NOT interchangeable as it has a non standard connector vs. the dual SAE posts on conventional batteries. Modifications have also been made to the electrical system to accommodate the higher voltage (15.5 volts). Ohmmu lithiums top out at 14.8 which matches charger output on the lead acid cars.
I looked at Advance Auto web site and you have to return your old battery or you'll be charged for the core. Do you have to pay shipping for returning old batteries?
Peter
Oh okay. I just found out we have a local Advance Auto store as well.
Thanks,
Peter
Thanks,
Peter
android04
Active Member
You just drop off the old battery at any of their store locations and get the core charge back.
android04
Active Member
If you mean putting one of the newer OEM lithium ion batteries into an older Tesla with a lead acid battery, that's not possible. The connector on the newer lithium ion batteries is not compatible, the single connector holds pins for the positive and negative leads as well as 2 more wires for communications with the vehicle. The older Teslas don't have the right connector and don't have the capability of handling the higher voltage from the OEM lithium ion battery. They also won't have the vehicle computer configured to charge or monitor the OEM lithium ion battery correctly.
I started the thread to learn how to be prepared to replace 12V battery for my 2020 M3. Currently, the voltage is about 14.8V. I don't yet need a new 12V battery. I have 10 months left of warranty. I hope it fails a month before the warranty expires to get a free 12V battery from Tesla.
Peter
I started the thread to learn how to be prepared to replace 12V battery for my 2020 M3. Currently, the voltage is about 14.8V. I don't yet need a new 12V battery. I have 10 months left of warranty. I hope it fails a month before the warranty expires to get a free 12V battery from Tesla.
Peter
The same thing everyone does with an ICE car...wait until you can't start the car and then freak out! /s
My friend was visiting today and her model 3 wouldn't start when she got ready to go home (about 70mi away). Turns out she still has the original 2018 battery, it wouldn't hold a charge, and battery charger wouldn't start the car. We purchased the battery shown in the link (or the one for a 2018). O'Reily also came up with this battery when putting the 2018 model 3 into their system. I installed it, lights and systems came on and we celebrated. However, a whole lot of Alerts then flashed up and the car would not drive. Alerts were: BMS_a063 "Unalbe to charge disconnect and retry"; VCFRONT_a192 Electrical System is unable to support all features"; and VCFRONT_a180 Electrical system power reduced". She also just got a message in her Tesla App that the 12v battery needs to be recharged. Obviously she needs to get it to a Service Center, but does anyone have suggestions or interpretations of what's going on?
Sounds like she/you didn't follow the service manual (or at least the readily accessible Ohmmu install or replace ) procedure when replacing the LVB. It doesnt matter if the new LVB is not a LiFePO4 from above vendor, the same steps apply.
Most of not all of those alerts are bening, and should be reset to prevent a suicide drain of the new LVB. The VCFront and HVC don't like it when the LVB is hot-swapped.
Most of not all of those alerts are bening, and should be reset to prevent a suicide drain of the new LVB. The VCFront and HVC don't like it when the LVB is hot-swapped.
android04
Active Member
Wow, I'm surprised O'Reilly Auto Parts finally listed a compatible battery on their catalog. I just tested it and it worked. Hopefully all other car parts stores do the same so people can more easily find a replacement without knowing that the battery is a group size 51R.
As for the error messages, they need to be cleared when replacing the battery by following this procedure:
1. Disconnect the connector under the rear passenger-side seat cushion
2. Disconnect the negative terminal of 12v battery
3. Wait a minute
4. Connect the negative terminal of 12v battery
5. Connect the connector under the rear seat cushion.
I was going to link directly to the Tesla Do It Yourself page for replacing the battery, but the link breaks for some reason. Go here Model 3 Do It Yourself | Tesla and scroll down to Low Voltage Battery for the replacement procedure.
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Thank you for replying so quickly. Last night I realized we didn't know about the important step of disconnecting the high voltage connector under the seat. Went out this morning and found the new battery was completely drained. Went through the rigamarole of opening the frunk using the tow port wires, spent two full battery chargers trying to recharge the 12v, but it was not enough to turn on the car, so we took battery back to OReilly's who recharged it. We then went through the steps on the Tesla site you provided the link for, which includes the additional step of powering off the car. Screen came on and... still showed all the same alerts, and wouldn't drive. Repeated the steps again, same result. I guess she'll have to figure out how to get it towed to the SC 70 miles away.
You are correct, we did not, and I guess we experienced that "suicide drain". As mentioned in my response to Android04, we got the battery recharged, then followed the service manual steps, but it did not re-set the alerts. Is that something a Tesla technician has to do, or is it supposed to happen when you disconnect the connection to the high voltage battery? Thanks you for responding.
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