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What's up with HPWC?

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I was asked this question privately, but its answer is valuable to all. The question I was asked was "you mention a large junction box. How large should it be?"

For smaller conductors (#6 and smaller), this would normally be governed by 314.16; but conductors #4 and larger are governed by a different section, 314.28.

314.28(A)(2) says that the distance between the conduit entry into the box and the other side of the box be a minimum of 6 times the size of the largest conduit entering the box. Then, if more conduits enter on the same side of the box, you add the diameter of each additional conduit to the 6x amount. So in a junction box where 1 conduit (supply) enters the top, and 2 conduits (to WC's) exit the bottom, the box must be 7" long minimum (6" for the first conduit on the bottom + 1" for the additional). In the case where there are no conduits entering the box on either of two opposing sides, the box simply needs to be wide enough to accommodate the conduit connectors. In this case, because the left and right sides of the box don't have conduit, the only minimum is there to hold the conduits.

So in this case, the typical box size is going to be an 8x6x4 or 8x8x4.
 
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Happy to report that the larger water hose clips worked well, it is the right size for the diameter of the HPWC cable.

Amazon.com : Gecko's Toes Water Hose Rack : Air Tool Hose Reels : Patio, Lawn & Garden
 
My favorite install yet. Makes an otherwise unusable spot functional, and saves other valuable wall space. I was on the fence over cleanliness of 8.5' over 24', but this makes it an easy decision. I plan on doing 2 chargers between 3 single garage doors just like this one. Still need to decide whether to do one or both 24' now that you made 24' look so good.
 
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My favorite install yet. Makes an otherwise unusable spot functional, and saves other valuable wall space. I was on the fence over cleanliness of 8.5' over 24', but this makes it an easy decision. I plan on doing 2 chargers between 3 single garage doors just like this one. Still need to decide whether to do one or both 24' now that you made 24' look so good.
If you ever back-in to the garage to load or unload go 24'. We swap parking inside the garage sometimes out of convenience, depending on what's blocking our driveway, so I didn't want to upset the ICE driver with the restriction to one side only. :rolleyes:
 
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Is there anyone in this forum familiar with Ontario (Canada) rules for Tesla's WC? I had a 60A line run into the garage when we built our extension and I was wondering if Ontario also requires there to be a cut-off switch near the WC?
 
Is there anyone in this forum familiar with Ontario (Canada) rules for Tesla's WC? I had a 60A line run into the garage when we built our extension and I was wondering if Ontario also requires there to be a cut-off switch near the WC?

This is a couple of years old, but it discusses the electrical code in Canada for EV chargers:
Electric Vehicle Charging Systems
 
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So has anyone had this issue, I installed the second Gen wall charger and the green light cycled then lite up, all is good right. Its bee about a week and the light is off as of yesterday, Now i dont have the MX yet so its just sitting there so im thinking its in stand by mode or something. Im going to check the connections this morning but didn't know if this was normal.
 
thanks but found the problem, one of the hot wires were not tightened all the way so getting intermittent electric. tightened everything down and recycled. all looks good now.
Speaking of which. We had a hard time getting #2 copper into the WC. Tried for hours with three people. Coming in from the back.

Finally resorted to pulling the wires from the conduit, removing the WC from the wall and doing the connection on the floor. Had to use levers and probes to get the wires into the jaws. Yes, we had the jaws open all the way, even to the point of removing the screw.

Upon closer inspection the fixed jaw seemed to stick out about 1/6" from the edge. While we got #2 in there, it's not easy to do, especially with the tight bend and upside down when using the rear entry.
 
Speaking of which. We had a hard time getting #2 copper into the WC. Tried for hours with three people. Coming in from the back.

Finally resorted to pulling the wires from the conduit, removing the WC from the wall and doing the connection on the floor. Had to use levers and probes to get the wires into the jaws. Yes, we had the jaws open all the way, even to the point of removing the screw.

Upon closer inspection the fixed jaw seemed to stick out about 1/6" from the edge. While we got #2 in there, it's not easy to do, especially with the tight bend and upside down when using the rear entry.

Had this same issue, that was why people in this thread were curious about #2 fitting, but as you reported it is the biggest that will fit. With the top entry adapter and without. Tesla's own copper between their top entry box and charger is smaller than a #2. My green light has been on for 2 weeks since install, no red either. I have run test mode by holding down reset button for more than 10 seconds, all was ok.
 
Speaking of which. We had a hard time getting #2 copper into the WC. Tried for hours with three people. Coming in from the back.

Finally resorted to pulling the wires from the conduit, removing the WC from the wall and doing the connection on the floor. Had to use levers and probes to get the wires into the jaws. Yes, we had the jaws open all the way, even to the point of removing the screw.

Upon closer inspection the fixed jaw seemed to stick out about 1/6" from the edge. While we got #2 in there, it's not easy to do, especially with the tight bend and upside down when using the rear entry.

I wouldn't use that entry unless you are really obsessed with getting a clean flush install.
 
Gen 2 installed. Was a two-step process for me. Note of warning, using the rear entry is absolutely the hardest. There is no room inside the unit to make a relief with 2 AWG wire, there is too much stuff in the way, it's more tightly packed than gen 1. Top entry would be easiest followed by bottom. Also, for some reason they lined up the internal board standoffs with the screw holes for the mounting bracket. This means the screws in the mounting bracket must be absolutely flush, or you'll have problems. Temperature rise at 40A is negligible, still waiting for my dual charger install. Going to take some temperature readings of the conduit @ 80A before I seal up the drywall.
is that a kill-a-watt or an equivalent? where could I buy this particular one? Make/model please. Thanks!
 
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