Using TM-Spy to see Model S data.

[garygid]

I suspect that Turbo3 is just reading the Battery Pack info msgID (perhaps 102) and presenting data found there, with no added calculations. But, we are without real definitions of the exact meanings of the values, so we are trying to make reasonable guesses.

Most all values are calculated from inexact measurements, and are often just estimates of some value that cannot be directly measured. Is "Current Max Usable Energy" (if it said that) different than "Maximum kWh"? We really do not know what they mean to Tesla, or how these numbers are estimated ... emphasis on estimated, please always remember that concept.

wk057 has been able to see some of these values displayed on various diagnostics screens, I believe, so he most likely has better insight, being able to see how the values are labeled on the screens ... that we cannot access. But, even then, those labels might be misleading.

 

[jrreno]

Ok, so at best it can be used as a relative ( to other packs ) "health"

 

[garygid]

For starters, keep track of how the parameter changes on your own car.

If it goes back up, stays flat, or decreases in warmer/colder/different weather or conditions, that will tell us something. Keep the date of each reading.

 

[brantse]

Last Thursday, my 60 was showing 55.5 kWh available, today it was showing 54.8, so I think these numbers are probably affected by climate, just as the range calculations are.

 

[garygid]

Good info. That is probably one of the reasons that Tesla does not show us this value ... it would generally cause too much worry, questions, anxiety, etc.

Perhaps you can watch this value and give us a time plot next fall?
In any case, thanks for the observation.

 

[David99]

Last Thursday, my 60 was showing 55.5 kWh available, today it was showing 54.8, so I think these numbers are probably affected by climate, just as the range calculations are.

Definitely. The available capacity/energy changes with temperature. The warmer, the more you can get out.

 

[Benjamin Brooks]

Good info. That is probably one of the reasons that Tesla does not show us this value ... it would generally cause too much worry, questions, anxiety, etc.

Perhaps you can watch this value and give us a time plot next fall?
In any case, thanks for the observation.

Yes, I've seen my reported number increase from 73.7kWh to 73.9kWh overnight (car just idle, no charging session in between).

 

[garygid]

I wonder how much this kWh "capacity" estimate changes when the outside temperature is minus 10 degrees C.

Does anybody have some low-temperature readings?

 

[David99]

I wonder how much this kWh "capacity" estimate changes when the outside temperature is minus 10 degrees C.

Does anybody have some low-temperature readings?

Unfortunately being in Los Angeles, there is very little chance to get low temperatures. But I did notice the capacity number go up between yesterday when I started with a 21° C battery and today when the battery was around 31° C. The difference was about 0.8 kWh (if I remember correctly). So there is definitely a correlation. Tesla's own range calculator on their website indicates that as well. You can see that you get a little more range at warmer temperatures.

@Turbo3 Thanks for this awesome app! Great job! That's exactly the kind of info I always wanted. Now that I finally got my car back and had a chance to test it, here is some random feedback:
-setup and connection was super simple and easy. Worked instantly. Works great on a Galaxy S4.
-switching between the different displays/data screens is a little confusing to me. I always feel like it's a try and error approach between tapping on the screen and lower left button. Maybe just me needing to get used to it.
-I love the graph that shows power vs voltage. After using it for a while, they seem to mirror each other pretty much. Is there a way to switch to 'single mode' (showing just voltage or just power)?
-I'd love to have an 'all in one' screen that shows just voltage (average of all modules), temperature (average of all), power, capacity, remaining, ... as a number? ...oh and then tapping on those numbers gets you to the detailed graph screen

 

[Chris TX]

3 foot cables are sold out. Switching to 1 foot cables, now:

Tesla Model S OBD2/CAN adapter cable (Pre-Sept 2015)

 

[garygid]

Chris,
Can you show a picture of what you have done with the wiring side of the TDC mating-connector housing, please?

 

[Chris TX]

Chris,
Can you show a picture of what you have done with the wiring side of the TDC mating-connector housing, please?

I'm just using pins 1, 6, 9, and 10. The shrinkwrap helps to protect it a bit.

 

[garygid]

Ok, the heat-shrink not shrunk aggressively over the little wires.
Looks quite nice. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Chris TX]

Ok, the heat-shrink not shrunk aggressively over the little wires.
Looks quite nice. Thanks for sharing.

It's shrunk down as much as it will go. The tubing I used barely fits over the cord that originally has 16 wires, shielding, and insulation. I've been playing with some mesh tubing that could connect the outer insulation to the connector, relieving any stress on the 4 wires. That might be a version "2.5". The problem is, there's not a specific way to attach something like that to the connector. If we were using all 16 wires, it wouldn't be an issue. I don't see too much wear and tear on that end of the cable, though.

 

[garygid]

Has anybody tried tucking the Adapter cable, along with a dongle (perhaps medium or mini size), back up inside the recess that is up above the cubby, and closing the cubby? It appears that some good flexibility in the Adapter "cable" is needed, especially right where it exits the housing at the TDC end.

Does one still get enough Bluetooth, or Bluetooth 4.0, signal to have a reliable connection to the Android or iOS device?

I want to make a 12 to 24 hour recording of the DC-DC volts and amps to get a good picture of how my 12v battery is doing. If it shows anything interesting, I might share it with my SvC.

Which USB port has the higher power available that would be needed to charge/run an iPad for that long, with the screen intensity turned down to minimum?

 

[garygid]

Cell-Brick Voltages: Here is Module 3 (of 1 - 96), Bricks 1, 2, 3, and 4 (of 1 - 6) as seen with v0.0.19 on the iPad. The 5 millivolt dip occured when I turned the A/C on high for about a minute. The time scale is not yet calculated correctly.

The Android app is not yet capable of filtering out individual bricks for graphing, I think.

 

[obrien28]

Has anybody tried tucking the Adapter cable, along with a dongle (perhaps medium or mini size), back up inside the recess that is up above the cubby, and closing the cubby? It appears that some good flexibility in the Adapter "cable" is needed, especially right where it exits the housing at the TDC end.

Does one still get enough Bluetooth, or Bluetooth 4.0, signal to have a reliable connection to the Android or iOS device?

I want to make a 12 to 24 hour recording of the DC-DC volts and amps to get a good picture of how my 12v battery is doing. If it shows anything interesting, I might share it with my SvC.

Which USB port has the higher power available that would be needed to charge/run an iPad for that long, with the screen intensity turned down to minimum?

It is possible, I currently have a V-Link adaptor (mentioned a few posts ago) which when coupled with a flat noodle cable allows me to plug in the TDC and sandwich the cable between the cubby and touchscreen. Since you are trying to measure the 12V battery and the USB ports are powered by it, I might suggesting using an external battery pack (available in lots of places) to charge the iPad, that way you don't influence any of the measurements.

Unrelated question, how does one go about using recipe files for the either TM-Spy on Android or iOS, I found an example file on your website but I'm not sure how to load that into the app.

 

[garygid]

The Recipe files on my website are mostly for LEAF and other cars.

In a recent post on the "Using TM-Spy for iOS" thread, there is a link to my Dropbox to a User Plot file ... mostly for the iOS version, because the Android version might not support a User Plot file, ... yet. If you can, try that, and let me know what happened, please.

 

[Andyw2100]

Unrelated question, how does one go about using recipe files for the either TM-Spy on Android or iOS, I found an example file on your website but I'm not sure how to load that into the app.

The Recipe files on my website are mostly for LEAF and other cars.

At some point in this thread or perhaps one of the other ones I believe you, Gary, suggested (although it may have been Turbo3) that if we had any good ideas for "recipes" they could be incorporated into the app as pre-cooked recipes, so to speak.

I have yet to actually fire things up and connect all the parts I bought, but I am planning on it. One of the things that I thought would be useful would be to be able to graph / monitor both front and rear motor activity at the same time on the dual motor cars, to be able to evaluate what is going on with respect to torque sleep. (Actually I think MikeBur suggested this in another thread.) Is this something that might be coded into the apps?

Thanks!

 

[garygid]

I suspect, but do not know, that the rear motor power is on one msgID, and the other motor is on a different msgID. So, at the moment, dual-msgID graphing is not supported. However, if the msgIDs are very similar, differing only in powers of 2, we might be able to rig something with a Mask.

Find the msgIDs, and we will know more.