I know there is a test showing the center console USB ports only outputs around 1 amp each. Has anyone bought a 2-port, 2.1 amp,aftermarket USB charger and tried to upgrade the USB ports from the back? Does anyone know how to take the center console apart? I'm trying to charge up my iPad without taking up the 12v port.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
FYI (and if you know this, never mind), iPads will charge on a lower power USB port. I've charged my iPad in the car. Yes, while using it (or just screen on) it won't charge - it uses that power to power the screen/etc. - but with the screen off, it uses what power it gets to charge. Obviously, not helpful if you want to use it and charge at the same time.
I measured my USB ports and they only delivered 0.5 Amp each. Maybe they upgraded them in the cars with AP. I was thinking the same thing, it would be nice to upgrade. Or even install extra ones just for charging. Also for the people sitting in the back. Should not be hard to do as there is already a strong 12 Volt source. But I don't know how to open the console.
mikeash
Active Member
If you need the 12V outlet for other stuff, note that you can get splitters for them too. You'll be limited to drawing only as much total power as the one original port can provide, but since the original port is rated for something like 120W, that won't be an issue for typical accessories and especially not for phone chargers.
I wouldn't rely upon this. I had an iPad that was suffering from the "too much crap the kids installed" syndrome - and even when the screen was off, the thing was warm from high CPU usage and would burn through battery quickly - for some iPads this likely won't work. I like the idea of patching in supplemented power for USB under the console. In the meantime, I just use a 4-port high power USB power supply in the 12V accessory port.
Wow, must've been some weird stuff that did a lot of background work I guess? One could force-quit those, I suppose, or fix settings to limit what's allowed to do background stuff, or both. But yeah I probably don't have a lot of apps that are running background/network stuff (which is kinda limited on iPads anyway, though)....
Best would be for Tesla to (a) update this, and (b) offer a low-cost update. I'm not a car hacker/refurbisher. ;-) But I like keeping up on what folks come up with!
Personally I use this one, it's slightly smaller than the previous one.
Amazon.com: Aukey 4.8A Dual USB car charger for iPhone 6S, 6, 6 Plus, Samsung Galaxy,Google Nexus,LG,HTC,Motorola and more (The Smallest but Most Powerful Car Charger in the World) - Black: Cell Phones Accessories
gzerninplatz
Member
the Scoche dual 12v works great for me...leaves the 2 USB ports for audio flash drives...and could easily split one of those 12V->usb...or use a 12v splitter to get one leg for the dual 12v->usb and the other for another 12v accessory...they can supply well more than the current needed for most stuff...
Thanks for the suggestions. Fezzik has a good write up (Install of Radar Detector, Dashcam, and Laser Jammer (LONG)) where he came across the USB connector when installing his radar detector. I'm going to try to tap in there so it will be tucked away out of sight. I like to keep the clean look and not have an adapter, splitter, or both.
whitex
Well-Known Member
Just a quick note, the wiring going from the footwell to the jacks maybe designed for only 0.5A (USB2.0 standard). Plugging in 2A source to it can give you 2 problems:
1. You could overheat the wire, causing an electrical fire (or at least melted wires)
2. A lot of power will be lost in the wiring - so even though you may connect it to a 10W charger, you will not get a full benefit of it. When using a 10W charger and using a garden variety USB charge cable you can easily lose 1W in the cable - that's why the rapid chargers come with their own, short and fat USB cables.
You will also lose the ability to connect thumb drive storage for music.
green1
Active Member
My Note4 came with a rapic charger, and the cord it came with is no fatter or shorter than any other phone USB cable I've ever seen...
That said, I understand your point. My thought was always around doing something right near the port in behind the centre console, I was wondering if I could increase the power via a USB hub back there, more power without losing the USB connectivity. sound plausible?
Let's put #1 in perspective - "overheating the wire" is only going to happen in the case of bad connectors, dead shorts and/or unprotected chargers. Fusing ("burning") current for 24 AWG is 29A, and 22 AWG is 41A, and that's using the most conservative of numbers. At that current level, the ability to withstand physical damage is more important than current-carrying capability.
miamibeacher
Member
Has anyone tried something like this?
It seems to me this could be installed somewhere in the USB line from display computer to the ports in the console. It doesn't come with a power supply, so just getting a DC-DC converter with how many Amps you're looking for.
https://www.solidsignal.com/m/product.aspx?p=5vusb
It seems to me this could be installed somewhere in the USB line from display computer to the ports in the console. It doesn't come with a power supply, so just getting a DC-DC converter with how many Amps you're looking for.
https://www.solidsignal.com/m/product.aspx?p=5vusb
f-stop
Active Member
Similar threads
