Towing - Weight Distribution Hitch compatibility

[steilkurve]

That is good to hear. I think I will bite the bullet and drop my ball-only towing and go with this hitch. It is 143 pounds of added weight at the hitch but I will choose to believe the weight distribution will work its magic (which Weigh Safe confirmed it would). I shall report back once tested (which first requires parks and campgrounds to reopen in these parts!).

So I have now received, set up and gone out with the True Tow hitch. First reaction is that it is bringing stability of my rig to a whole new level. I had never towed with WD and sway control before mind you but the hitch makes my rig rock solid. Drove through a rain storm with heavy wind and the trailer wouldn’t budge. Ditto with 18-wheelers passing me. Not feeling a thing. Very reassuring. The con is that it is a tad bulky and heavy when setting up before every tow (you have to remove the head assembly each time). It has not affected my range or the behaviour of the air suspension to my knowledge. Photo attached. Any questions, happy to answer.

 

[doghousePVD]

So I have now received, set up and gone out with the True Tow hitch. First reaction is that it is bringing stability of my rig to a whole new level. I had never towed with WD and sway control before mind you but the hitch makes my rig rock solid. Drove through a rain storm with heavy wind and the trailer wouldn’t budge. Ditto with 18-wheelers passing me. Not feeling a thing. Very reassuring. The con is that it is a tad bulky and heavy when setting up before every tow (you have to remove the head assembly each time). It has not affected my range or the behaviour of the air suspension to my knowledge. Photo attached. Any questions, happy to answer.

Are there any downsides to the Draw-Tite hitch?

With the Draw-Tite, can you raise the ball to 20-21" (needed for A2414) (approximately 3" rise) and are not be limited to the 3/4" rise of the Bosal?

I have the Weigh Ball and in the process of getting an SafariCondo A2414. It's bit lighter that your Airstream. Is it foolish to try using only the Weigh Ball for the first season, and see if a WD hitch is necessary. I figure my weight balance will be just about exactly 50/50 with the car fully loaded with wife and stuff.

How much longer is disconnecting the True Tow vs a regular Weigh Ball, for example at Superchargers?

My prior towing experience has just been with U-hauls, nothing as bulky as an camper trailer. So please excuse any simplistic questions. Thanx!

 

[ohmman]

Are there any downsides to the Draw-Tite hitch?

Not @steilkurve but I think I was the first to install the Draw-Tite here, so I will give you my thoughts. The downsides may be:

• Installation isn't done by Tesla, so nicks and scrapes could create galvanic corrosion risk
• Cannot remove the hitch adapter like with Bosal for a "cleaner" look

I have an inexpensive WiFi endoscope that I have used to check my connections to the vehicle to make sure I'm not having issues with the first concern and I have seen no evidence of an issue. The second one isn't a concern for me.

With the Draw-Tite, can you raise the ball to 20-21" (needed for A2414) (approximately 3" rise) and are not be limited to the 3/4" rise of the Bosal?

The Draw-Tite doesn't have the offset limitation of the Bosal. You would be free to include a rise.

I have the Weigh Ball and in the process of getting an SafariCondo A2414. It's bit lighter that your Airstream. Is it foolish to try using only the Weigh Ball for the first season, and see if a WD hitch is necessary. I figure my weight balance will be just about exactly 50/50 with the car fully loaded with wife and stuff.

This is your decision. @ecarfan tows his (lighter and smaller) Alto without weight distribution and has had success and comfort for the most part.

How much longer is disconnecting the True Tow vs a regular Weigh Ball, for example at Superchargers?

Weight distribution hitches require an extra step. In my case, I have to raise the trailer tongue with my electric jack to the point that it relieves the pressure on the torsion bars. Then I remove the bars from the trailer, lower the tongue a bit (to relieve the tension on the ball), release the ball, and raise it again to release. With a regular ball hitch, you just unlock and raise it. Because I installed an electric tongue jack and a flip-foot, I can hold the switch with one hand while I unhook the safety chains, breakaway cord, and 7-pin adapter with the other hand. My full unhitch takes well under 5 minutes. I angle the bars back perpendicular to the rear of the car and leave them on while I Supercharge.

It is a bit more effort, no question. And I generally camp where the weather is excellent, so I've only once had to do this shuffle in the rain. People who live in more varied climates may feel differently about the relative inconvenience.

 

[steilkurve]

Not @steilkurve but I think I was the first to install the Draw-Tite here, so I will give you my thoughts.

You were indeed @ohmman and I now happily walk in your footsteps. Your experiments helped many of us tremendously.

@doghousePVD let me add a few additional thoughts to the above sage advice:

-Towed for about 12 trips with just the ball and my trailer is heavier than @ecarfan. Never experienced any moment where I felt unsafe. I attribute that to the X's weight and how aerodynamic the AS is. That being said, a dramatic sway event could still happen so I purchased the WD hitch as insurance.

-On most outings, I charge before leaving home and then at the campsite and that often suffices. In the instances where the legs are longer, I do SuperCharge. Some I've unhitched at, others I've been able to park sideways at (see photo). Of course, I stay by the rig in case I'm in the way. Now, I also live here up north in Canada where SCs outside of urban centres are not yet as busy as some places the US.

-Once the head assembly is attached to your hitch, setting up the True Tow is fairly simple after a few times doing it. You get the hang of it. I've not yet had to but if I had to remove the head assembly to charge but in the event its length interferes with the stall, that would be a bit more involved work.

-True Tow may be overkill for my rig, and I would imagine perhaps even more for a lighter SafariCondo. The bars are stiff and in my case cut short with L brackets placed closer to the ball than preferred (but within specs) due to the double battery box. While it provides a very, very stable ride, I wonder about stress on the trailer. Not sure if it's related to that or just the fact I've now been out with my rig for almost a year, but I've noticed more stuff come loose in the trailer (screws, a popped rivet, plexiglass privacy dividers, etc.). Could be normal and just a coincidence though.

I should note that decoupling has been a bit more finicky with the True Tow for me. Ball is often stuck to the coupler. Manufacturer says this is normal due to friction built up during towing but it does sometimes require moving the car a tiny tad to release the stress or 'kicking' the coupler. So if you unhitch to charge, that's an added step though perhaps unique to my set up. Not sure I'd see that with the Equalizer hitch.

Lowering the jack with the True Two also sometimes just results in the car lowering along with it and the jack not lifting off the ground (before bars are attached). I've chalked it down to suspension height and head assembly length. The X at standard is not terribly high. True Tow's ball sits at the end of a fairly long head assembly. It kinda acts as a lever to further the lower the car or so I think. I don't have that problem with just my weight bearing hitch. I've tried with the suspension at high the last time it happened and it solved it that time. Wonder if there's something more at play here. @ohmman any thoughts on this?

 

[doghousePVD]

Thank you, @ohmman, and many others for responding to my questions. Let me summarize what I've learned. First let me apologize for some less-than-smart questions without doing my homework. And if I have written something wrong, please let me know.

There are very few, if any, Xs actively towing a Safaricondo A2124. There are quite a few towing other Safaricondos, which are much lighter. There are quite a few towing heavier Airstreams.

Safaricondo has said they have only sold two A2124s for Teslas. One, @AltoGrayhound's, is stuck in Georgia with the owner in Canada, due to covid. Not sure on the other.

The Draw-Tite hitch seems almost essential for the heavier tows, including the A2124 and the Airstreams. The Bosal, while officially capable, has garnered quite a few issues by several drivers. I plan to have one installed.

A significant issue pertinent mostly to A2124 (and not the other Safaricondos) is the required ball height. The stock Bosal hitch is only 17" high, which is fine for many trailers. The A2124 requires a height of 20-21", and the Tesla manual states not to use a riser greater than 3/4". A Draw-Tite hitch can accept a riser to get the ball up to 20" safely.

The Draw-Tite part number 76143 appears to be particular to Tesla X. The installation direction have photos installed on the X.

There are several weight distribution hitches available. They are generally recommended when the tow is greater than 50% of the weight of the towing vehicle.

I figure with my typically loaded X, I will be right about 50%. I already have a Weigh Safe ball hitch that can adjust up to the A2124 height requirement. I am going to try my first season with just the ball to see how I like it. It will be easy to add a WD hitch later. I am in line for a Cybrtrck, so I may (optimistic) have a truck in 2022, or more likely 2023.

 

[ohmman]

I should note that decoupling has been a bit more finicky with the True Tow for me. Ball is often stuck to the coupler. Manufacturer says this is normal due to friction built up during towing but it does sometimes require moving the car a tiny tad to release the stress or 'kicking' the coupler.

Do you grease the hitch ball? I smear mine with white lithium grease which helps it release from the coupling and also gives me a lot more wiggle room when I'm hitching up. If it's not well greased, it won't slide in and I can't lock the ball - I need to move the car a bit to do so.

Lowering the jack with the True Two also sometimes just results in the car lowering along with it and the jack not lifting off the ground (before bars are attached). I've chalked it down to suspension height and head assembly length. The X at standard is not terribly high. True Tow's ball sits at the end of a fairly long head assembly. It kinda acts as a lever to further the lower the car or so I think. I don't have that problem with just my weight bearing hitch. I've tried with the suspension at high the last time it happened and it solved it that time. Wonder if there's something more at play here. @ohmman any thoughts on this?

Hmm. I'm trying to make sense of this. So by "lowering the jack" you mean raising the tongue foot, right? As you raise that, the camper tongue and car both lower (which happens to me), but you can raise it until it stops and it's not off the ground? Looking at your photo from the top of this page, that doesn't seem possible so I think I'm just misinterpreting. It appears you'd bottom out before the jack was fully raised.

 

[steilkurve]

Do you grease the hitch ball? I smear mine with white lithium grease which helps it release from the coupling and also gives me a lot more wiggle room when I'm hitching up. If it's not well greased, it won't slide in and I can't lock the ball - I need to move the car a bit to do so.


Hmm. I'm trying to make sense of this. So by "lowering the jack" you mean raising the tongue foot, right? As you raise that, the camper tongue and car both lower (which happens to me), but you can raise it until it stops and it's not off the ground? Looking at your photo from the top of this page, that doesn't seem possible so I think I'm just misinterpreting. It appears you'd bottom out before the jack was fully raised.

I grease but likely too sparingly. Did some tests today and applied a thick coat. Reese brand. Went on and off without problems.

On the second point. This happens when unhitching. I’ve raised the tongue to relieve the pressure off the bars to take them off the L brackets. That works fine. I then lower the tongue to be able to lift the coupler latch (EZlatch on my model). When I do that, it’s happened a few times where I reach the stop line on the jack and it’s not off the ground. Raising the suspension to high solves the problem. Alternatively, perhaps I’ve got too many Camco blocks (7) the jack foot rests on. It would need more runway? Am I making any sense?

 

[ohmman]

On the second point. This happens when unhitching. I’ve raised the tongue to relieve the pressure off the bars to take them off the L brackets. That works fine. I then lower the tongue to be able to lift the coupler latch (EZlatch on my model). When I do that, it’s happened a few times where I reach the stop line on the jack and it’s not off the ground. Raising the suspension to high solves the problem. Alternatively, perhaps I’ve got too many Camco blocks (7) the jack foot rests on. It would need more runway? Am I making any sense?

Yes, got it. It's the Camco blocks. I understand - you don't want to wait for the jack (who does?), but I think you're using too many.

I installed a flip-foot on mine. I recognize not everyone is comfortable with these. Mine has been stable and has never collapsed on me because once there is weight on it, it cannot pivot. This does the job of the Camco blocks but without having to get them, and I think it would likely clear for you.

 

[steilkurve]

Yes, got it. It's the Camco blocks. I understand - you don't want to wait for the jack (who does?), but I think you're using too many.

I installed a flip-foot on mine. I recognize not everyone is comfortable with these. Mine has been stable and has never collapsed on me because once there is weight on it, it cannot pivot. This does the job of the Camco blocks but without having to get them, and I think it would likely clear for you.

Ok. Thanks for the reply. That’s helpful. I’ll remove a few blocks and see.

I didn’t know about flip foots. I can see how that’s convenient. Works well on slanted sites?

 

[idoco]

I have the Weigh Ball and in the process of getting an SafariCondo A2414. It's bit lighter that your Airstream. Is it foolish to try using only the Weigh Ball for the first season, and see if a WD hitch is necessary.

Also not @steilkurve...but am happy to share our experience.

Our Bowlus is essentially the exact same weight as the A2414. We have ~15k miles of towing experience with it with the original Bosal and a tow ball. No WD hitch.

I think the OEM Bosal is fine for the lighter campers that aren't pushing the 5000 pound limit and don't require WD. I haven't detected any of the loosening that prompted others to switch to the Drawtite. Part of it is probably due to the light trailer. Part of it may be due to the fact I leave the Bosal in permanently and it may have welded itself to the insertion point

An advantage of the ball is that it takes about 1-2 minutes to hitch and unhitch. Under-appreciated until you need to unhitch somewhere in the pouring rain.

I've never felt sway or unwanted trailer effect on the MX while towing. So I've never felt a need for WD with the lighter trailer.
[One exception was Wreckhouse NL, one of the windiest places on earth apparently. Beware the Wreckhouse winds - Truck News]

As to rise height...I have 1" extra rise over the OEM recommendation in order to meet my trailer specs. No issues. Again, my feeling is that with the lighter trailer you can go out of spec a little since the lever forces aren't as large as the heavier trailer.

 

[AndreyATC]

What do you guys use to measure tongue weight?

 

[ecarfan]

What do you guys use to measure tongue weight?

I use one of these https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tr...afe hitch&utm_content=Ball Mount - Weigh Safe

 

[ohmman]

I use one of these. It's easy to use, just use the tongue jack to raise the camper, set this scale on a solid surface under the tongue, and retract the tongue jack to measure. I keep mine in my tool area (with bottle jack, etc) while I travel.

 

[ecarfan]

I use one of these. It's easy to use, just use the tongue jack to raise the camper, set this scale on a solid surface under the tongue, and retract the tongue jack to measure. I keep mine in my tool area (with bottle jack, etc) while I travel.

Okay, I’m clearly missing visualizing one of those steps . Do you start out hitched up, place the scale under the tongue jack, lower the tongue jack onto the scale, unhitch by releasing the ball clamp, then raise the tongue so that it is free of the ball and check the scale?

 

[ohmman]

Okay, I’m clearly missing visualizing one of those steps . Do you start out hitched up, place the scale under the tongue jack, lower the tongue jack onto the scale, unhitch by releasing the ball clamp, then raise the tongue so that it is free of the ball and check the scale?

I weigh before hitching up. The scale goes in the place where the ball would, atop any stable support.

 

[AndreyATC]

I use one of these. It's easy to use, just use the tongue jack to raise the camper, set this scale on a solid surface under the tongue, and retract the tongue jack to measure. I keep mine in my tool area (with bottle jack, etc) while I travel.

Thank you @ohmman
This is exactly what i bought (2000lb version) a little while ago
Just curious if it's accurate enough
Are you using some piece of wood or something else to lower trailer into the scale?
Just thinking when you need to weigh it before bringing the car

 

[ohmman]

Are you using some piece of wood or something else to lower trailer into the scale?

I have two solid cinder blocks at home (not the kind with the holes in them; I'd worry about those crushing). The times I used it on the road, I stacked the leveling blocks that came with my camper and put it on top of those.

I think it's accurate enough, as it seems to jive with my manufacturer's numbers. I still haven't gone to a CAT scale, but I've considered stopping more than once.

 

[ecarfan]

I weigh before hitching up. The scale goes in the place where the ball would, atop any stable support.

Thanks, apologies for my obtuseness.

 

[AndreyATC]

I have two solid cinder blocks at home (not the kind with the holes in them; I'd worry about those crushing). The times I used it on the road, I stacked the leveling blocks that came with my camper and put it on top of those.

I think it's accurate enough, as it seems to jive with my manufacturer's numbers. I still haven't gone to a CAT scale, but I've considered stopping more than once.

Thank you for your thorough answer.
I was thinking of using 4 x 4 piece of wood.
I just tried it once resting the scale on the hydraulic lift jack. I change my own wheels for the winter, so I have it handy

 

[ohmman]

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