Tesla Wall Connector Starts at 48A then Slowly Drops to 38-40A

[JaeTheDev]

As the title states. No errors, etc, but my vehicle starts at 48A and drops off after a little bit. Wife’s Y LR seems to work perfectly at 48A. Logic says to have Tesla check the vehicle out but I thought I’d ask if anyone has had a similar occurrence and found it was something else and nothing major?

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Rocky_H]

Well, first answer is no, it should not be doing that. Now there could be a few reasons, and we need to figure out why. Can you describe more about it? Almost always if the current gets reduced, there should be some indicator of why. This may be a message on the car's screen, or some combination of solid or blinking red lights on the wall connector. Do you see anything like that?

 

[JaeTheDev]

Well, first answer is no, it should not be doing that. Now there could be a few reasons, and we need to figure out why. Can you describe more about it? Almost always if the current gets reduced, there should be some indicator of why. This may be a message on the car's screen, or some combination of solid or blinking red lights on the wall connector. Do you see anything like that?

The only error "notification" is the one red blinking light on the wall connector at the top. No messages in the vehicle. Apologies for leaving that out.

 

[240vPlug]

The only error "notification" is the one red blinking light on the wall connector at the top. No messages in the vehicle. Apologies for leaving that out.

How many times does it blink red in succession?

 

[JaeTheDev]

How many times does it blink red in succession?

Just once, like instead of it being green and going through, the first one is red and then the rest are green in sequence.

 

[shamelin73]

Just a thought….. It seems like the wall connector is provisioned to 48AMP. Is the settings in your car set to 48AMP? It sounds like the settings in your car is set to like 40AMP.

 

[jcanoe]

One blink of the red light normally indicates a ground fault. Since the Tesla Wall Connector functions properly at 48 amps with your other Tesla vehicle with no ground fault indicator light the source of the issue has to be within your Tesla Model Y as only that vehicle triggers the fault and reduces the charging rate. I would open a Service Request via the Tesla app, attach photos of the charging screen to the service request and note the single blink of the red error light on the Wall Connector (that only happens when you attempt to charge your Model Y, not your wife's Tesla vehicle.)

 

[JaeTheDev]

Had to bring my vehicle in for a separate service. They ran the error code and stated it was normal.

The wall connecter was too hot, so it was cooling its self down in essence. Hasn’t done it since.

I didn’t know this was a thing. Auto cool. Haha

 

[jcanoe]

Had to bring my vehicle in for a separate service. They ran the error code and stated it was normal.

The wall connecter was too hot, so it was cooling its self down in essence. Hasn’t done it since.

I didn’t know this was a thing. Auto cool. Haha

Do you usually plug in your Tesla Model Y to charge using the same Wall Connector as soon as your wife's Model Y finishes charging? You could wait 20 minutes before charging the second Tesla vehicle. You could also reduce the charging amperage to 40 amps from 48 amp in hot weather so that the Wall Connector does not get as warm while charging.

 

[golferguy]

Suspect wiring issue or fault within wall charger. If things get hot thats a sign of wiring issue or component inside wall charger. If the 240v wires in wall charger were not properly torqued down, that would do it, cause heat and reduced charging

 

[JaeTheDev]

Suspect wiring issue or fault within wall charger. If things get hot thats a sign of wiring issue or component inside wall charger. If the 240v wires in wall charger were not properly torqued down, that would do it, cause heat and reduced charging

An electrician is coming out Monday afternoon to take a look. Ill update everyone what he finds then, so if someone else runs into this issue, they will have a search to find a possible answer.

 

[240vPlug]

Had to bring my vehicle in for a separate service. They ran the error code and stated it was normal.

The wall connecter was too hot, so it was cooling its self down in essence. Hasn’t done it since.

I didn’t know this was a thing. Auto cool. Haha

One blink is ground fault and over temp condition should be three. Sounds like you have it resolved now though. I agree that it should not be overheating and am glad to read your getting it checked to be safe.

 

[roblab]

Makes me glad I only ever use a 240-volt plug overnight. It's been trouble free for the past nearly 20 years, starting with my RAV4EV in 2002. I have never understood the reason to use a "wall connector" when an outlet will do the same job for a fraction of the cost, and it's still charged by morning. My outlet cost me about ten bucks and I wired it myself. Of course, if you never learned how to use pliers and a screwdriver, you get to pay the electrician $400 an hour, plus the wall connector....

 

[JaeTheDev]

Makes me glad I only ever use a 240-volt plug overnight. It's been trouble free for the past nearly 20 years, starting with my RAV4EV in 2002. I have never understood the reason to use a "wall connector" when an outlet will do the same job for a fraction of the cost, and it's still charged by morning. My outlet cost me about ten bucks and I wired it myself. Of course, if you never learned how to use pliers and a screwdriver, you get to pay the electrician $400 an hour, plus the wall connector....

My wall connector cost me 200 bucks to get installed plus material. Of course, if you don’t have electrician friends, I understand as well.

 

[BLH17]

I have issues with mine that I will start a new thread on, but will follow yours.

I have issues with both mobile connector and Wall Connector at home. For the 14-50, I have an industrial Hubbell receptacle, proper gauge wiring (6 gauge copper to 14-50, which goes to 100 amp subpanel, 4 gauge copper off that run underground, to 2 gauge aluminum in the disconnect to my main 200 amp panel). No heat issues, no warm wiring, etc. Just stops charging all the time, often within 20 min to start with. I'm going to have my electrician check stuff out but everything is tight and proper, and inspected when all the work was done. No issues for 1.5 years now I can't charge consistently. At first I had to drop it from 32amps to 24ish, then 22, now it caps at 16amps itself. Once it said 'whoops why was I doing that?', and changed itself to 32amp on my mobile connector and charged all the way up no problem about 3 weeks ago.

 

[Rocky_H]

I have never understood the reason to use a "wall connector" when an outlet will do the same job for a fraction of the cost,

Can you please stop doing this?
You take every opportunity you can to post these insulting critical comments which aren't even applicable anymore. What you did years ago isn't even allowed by electric code anymore, so it's bad advice to try telling new owners they should do it that way. And prices have changed a lot since then, so doing it with a wall connector is the same price or even slightly cheaper, so that part is wrong too.

 

[roblab]

My apologies. I did not intend to be "condescending". I still do not see how this was "insulting" but will refrain in the future from making any comments at all. I must state that I live in the county and rules are different, so that I am allowed to install my own outlets to charge my cars. My experience is, as you say, outdated, so I will leave you all to your own comments.

 

[Rocky_H]

I did not intend to be "condescending". I still do not see how this was "insulting"

Really? You don't see what is insulting or condescending about this?

Of course, if you never learned how to use pliers and a screwdriver

That is just downright rude, and you should be able to recognize that.

You keep doing this accusation about how people are supposedly dumb to pay more than you did. But we have pointed out repeatedly how there have been significant changes that make the outlet more expensive now, so these accusations just aren't even accurate anymore.

will refrain in the future from making any comments at all.

I'm not asking you to stop commenting or participating. I am asking you to stop making this one exact comment over and over of telling people that the wall connector is way more expensive, when it's not. If you're going to give something helpful, that's fine, but when you keep using this " I have never understood the reason..." to talk down to people, when we have told you to reason over and over, that is just being mean to new people here who are asking questions.

This is very much like being rude to people for not being able to afford buying a house on a minimum wage job because it's something you did 50 years ago. Things have changed, and some of those things aren't possible now, so there's no call for being rude if people are doing things differently.

 

[JaeTheDev]

Makes me glad I only ever use a 240-volt plug overnight. It's been trouble free for the past nearly 20 years, starting with my RAV4EV in 2002. I have never understood the reason to use a "wall connector" when an outlet will do the same job for a fraction of the cost, and it's still charged by morning. My outlet cost me about ten bucks and I wired it myself. Of course, if you never learned how to use pliers and a screwdriver, you get to pay the electrician $400 an hour, plus the wall connector....

I used a NEMA 14-50 outlet for 2 years. Reasons why I went to a wall connector.

1. I do not own a garage. Wall connector seems way more safe than a plug being exposed to the Rhode Island elements, which are extremely hot and humid in the summer, cold and wet in the winter.

2. The wall connector is faster to charge.

3. I own two Teslas. The wall connector can have up to 6 (I believe) other wall connectors hooked on the same panel making a slave/master system so I can charge both at once. They also update firmware via WiFi.

4. I can log into the WC, and set only my VINS to charge on my WC, Teslas only, etc.

5. I didnt know as soon as one learned to use pliers and a screwdriver, they became certified in high voltage electricity wiring.

6. If you live where an electrician makes $400/hour, Im moving close to you and becoming one. Thats more inflated than your ego by the sounds of the sentences you typed above.

 

[rickybobbee]

what some new owners might not realize is many governments now offer EV rebates that cover most if not all the charger install. My provincial government provides $650 for the charger install which in most cases makes it not worth attempting to install yourself or putting up with a slow 110v or anything less than a proper tesla wall charger