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bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
If someone is so determined that they're carrying the right screwdriver, they probably would also be willing to cut the cable or just vandalize the car. Best security system only slows someone down.
The plate is more than sufficient - quit tinkering and make it available!!
The plate is more than sufficient - quit tinkering and make it available!!
NigelM
Recovering Member
Cutting the cable while it's still plugged would probably have some small consequences....
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
An advantage of the separate device is that it can be used with any Tesla charge cable, say at some public site. Or were you thinking that we can carry our screwdriver with us and change out the slider temporarily? :wink:
I was thinking this lock might be more like a can cut longitudinally so that it covers the slider.
Quick update (pictures taken after welding and cleaning but before painting):
One problem with the prototype that will fix on the next iteration is that when opening the lock, the bottom part can pivot down and hit the paint of the car... On the next one, I will limit the travel of the hinge to prevent this issue.
One problem with the prototype that will fix on the next iteration is that when opening the lock, the bottom part can pivot down and hit the paint of the car... On the next one, I will limit the travel of the hinge to prevent this issue.
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NigelM
Recovering Member
With the plate it looks even better! Did you orientate the lock to the left for a reason? It just looks like the padlock should be on the right so that you don't have the chargeport door in the way.
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
Want one! This solution is so simple, so elegant. And this would have prevented someone from unplugging my car in Reno without my okay.
The orientation is random. Good point, thank you for the feedback: I will make sure the next design is "right".
By the way, do right hand drive Roadsters have the charing port on the left or right?
I think the charge port door is always on the left side regardless where the driver sits.
W.Petefish
Active Member
I received the first sample of the water jet cut parts. I'm not super happy about it and plan the following changes:
- Right now it uses a 1/4" core with 1/8" exterior plates. I plan to switch over to an all 1/8" construction. I will make it lighter and reduce the cost as there will be only one tooling charge versus two now (one per thickness).
- There is a pinch point at the hinge that needs to be addressed.
- One of the parts was not cut right (looks like it moved while the outer diameter was being cut). It's not a critical problem, it just looks a little odd and required a lot of filling to "blend in".
Pictures (the second one is next to the original prototype):
Please let me know what you think.
- Right now it uses a 1/4" core with 1/8" exterior plates. I plan to switch over to an all 1/8" construction. I will make it lighter and reduce the cost as there will be only one tooling charge versus two now (one per thickness).
- There is a pinch point at the hinge that needs to be addressed.
- One of the parts was not cut right (looks like it moved while the outer diameter was being cut). It's not a critical problem, it just looks a little odd and required a lot of filling to "blend in".
Pictures (the second one is next to the original prototype):
Please let me know what you think.
S-2000 Roadster
#1244
This is shaping up nicely.
How tamper-resistant is the hinge? Seems like it could be a weak point. If the hinge is pressed into the core, then it seems possible that it could be pressed back out to open the whole thing. However, if the hinge is a solid part of the core, then it wouldn't budge without being drilled (which is going to be more trouble than bolt cutters).
How tamper-resistant is the hinge? Seems like it could be a weak point. If the hinge is pressed into the core, then it seems possible that it could be pressed back out to open the whole thing. However, if the hinge is a solid part of the core, then it wouldn't budge without being drilled (which is going to be more trouble than bolt cutters).
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If the hinged part is swinging down and hitting the paintwork, make the hinged part smaller.
In other words, instead of the hinged parts forming two semi-circles, make one part take up, say, 270 degrees of the circle and the other part with the plate is the remaining 90.
To take it on and off you slide it backwards off the connector to where the cable is. The opening only needs to be as wide as the cable, not the whole connector.
In other words, instead of the hinged parts forming two semi-circles, make one part take up, say, 270 degrees of the circle and the other part with the plate is the remaining 90.
To take it on and off you slide it backwards off the connector to where the cable is. The opening only needs to be as wide as the cable, not the whole connector.
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