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Solved: Road Noise & Front Wind Noise

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Through the last few months, I have been watching and reading up the various posts regarding the many ways many of you all have attempted, as well as the various kits available online, to reduce if not eliminate road noise and wind noise from the Model3. After reviewing all those posts and review of the kits, I figured that since none of you have been able to achieve that elusive goal, let alone even come close to reducing the noise, made me ask the question: What are we missing?

So as I kept driving my M3, I attempted to focus on finding those missing sources ie where is the noise emanating into the cabin from. Turns out they are the 4 corners of the cabin ie the A-Pillars and C-pillars. More specifically, the A-Pillars for wind noise and C-Pillars for road noise.

#1 - The solution for wind noise is the following - Z Weatherstrip down inside the leading edge of the front door, and foam block at the top triangle where the front fender, windshield and door meet.

Z-Weatherstrip

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Foam at the junction
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#2 - The solution for road noise is the following - 2" Fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells.
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I hope this helps everyone who have been pursuing this goal. Thanks for all the contributions and many thanks to @XPsionic for his constant engagement and interest.
 
@tivoboy It's probably your adjustable shoulder seatbelt mount rattling around. Easy test to just place your hand on the plastic seatbelt adjuster plate while it's rattling. If it shuts up, that's your culprit. Also pretty easy to pry off the B-pillar cover and stuff foam or something in there, but in my experience, it's not a permanent fix. I plan to go in there again and try something further as it still makes an annoying vibration noise on certain road surfaces. Very close to your left ear, so hard to ignore!
 
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@tivoboy It's probably your adjustable shoulder seatbelt mount rattling around. Easy test to just place your hand on the plastic seatbelt adjuster plate while it's rattling. If it shuts up, that's your culprit. Also pretty easy to pry off the B-pillar cover and stuff foam or something in there, but in my experience, it's not a permanent fix. I plan to go in there again and try something further as it still makes an annoying vibration noise on certain road surfaces. Very close to your left ear, so hard to ignore!
yep, thats the ratlle.. I'll give both those things a try. Now, gotta find some nice hard CONCRETE surface which is where it is most apparent.
 
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I know it won't be a help to everyone but just as an FYI on this topic, I recently went from a 2020 MYLR to a 2023 MYP (MIC) and the ride and sound inside is night and day better. I suspect it's a whole lot of changes including the double-pane glass, suspension (even though I'd retrofitted comfort on my 2020) and probably lots of better soundproofing. Same wheels, and winter wheels at that.
 
I tried another experiment and it seems to do the job. This is related to the B pillar wind noise/whistling at high speeds especially crosswinds.

I used U channel weatherstripping used for door edges and put them on the rubber edge.

BEFORE
View attachment 1013024

AFTER
View attachment 1013026

View attachment 1013027

Rubber Edge Trim U Channel Edge Trim Sheet Metal Edge Guard Protector, Self-Adhesive EPDM Seal Strip for Panels, Car Doors, Steel Plates, Hatches, Table Corners, Fit 1/16"(1.6mm), 20Ft Length https://a.co/d/fjSP17E
Thanks for sharing this! I feel that a lot of the noise comes from the gap between the front double pane window and the B pillar.
 
Rockwool is quite safe to the touch and has a nice soft cottony feel with typically zero irritation - very different from fiberglass.

But unfortunately, both products are similar to asbestos when it comes to lung cancer.
Some brands of mineral wool added asbestos to their product, though this is no longer the case. Mineral wool that does not contain asbestos does not cause lung cancer. It is however an irritant, so still best to take precautions and wear PPE when working with it.

Note that ceramic wool is different from mineral wool and is a probable human carcinogen, per the EPA.


I plan to insulate the rear using a combination of closed cell PU foam and Polyfill sound insulation behind the rear seat bolsters. Prefer not to use ceramic wool for the above reason.

Also, I've had some success in the past applying Dynamat or similar to the backside of interior plastic panels. An increase in mass lowers the resonance frequency, often effectively mitigating many panel rattles caused by structure-borne excitations.
 
I’ve been experiencing more wind noise than expected on my drivers side door in my new M3P. The service advisor said it couldn’t the seal since it’s new, so he adjusted the window. Noise improved some but it’s still notably louder than the passenger side.

Looking at the seal, there’s a pretty big dip that looks like it needs reinforced. The passenger side has a little dip here but not this much.
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I’ve been experiencing more wind noise than expected on my drivers side door in my new M3P. The service advisor said it couldn’t the seal since it’s new, so he adjusted the window. Noise improved some but it’s still notably louder than the passenger side.

Looking at the seal, there’s a pretty big dip that looks like it needs reinforced. The passenger side has a little dip here but not this much. View attachment 1014294View attachment 1014295
Quick update, I stuck a piece of foam behind that kinked portion of the seal but didn't really notice a different on my drive to work this morning, though maybe the foam I used is too soft to do anything. I'll leave it for now and try a better solution with weather stripping when it comes in.

Prior to my lunch break, I did the service menu window calibration procedure (even though it said they were already calibrated) and driving around on my lunch break, I think this made quite a difference. It also appears that the drivers side window is closing a bit higher. I'll report more as I drive it.
 
Quick update, I stuck a piece of foam behind that kinked portion of the seal but didn't really notice a different on my drive to work this morning, though maybe the foam I used is too soft to do anything. I'll leave it for now and try a better solution with weather stripping when it comes in.

Prior to my lunch break, I did the service menu window calibration procedure (even though it said they were already calibrated) and driving around on my lunch break, I think this made quite a difference. It also appears that the drivers side window is closing a bit higher. I'll report more as I drive it.
It might be helpful to so what I did…

IMG_8480.jpeg
 
Before adding extra seals around my windows, I decided to schedule another service appointment. This time, the estimate says they will be replacing the whole seal on the drivers side. Fingers crossed that works. The shape is much less uniform than the passenger side, which is significantly quieter. Circled where the noise is entering (I included this in my service request)
 

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