Solved: Road Noise & Front Wind Noise

Through the last few months, I have been watching and reading up the various posts regarding the many ways many of you all have attempted, as well as the various kits available online, to reduce if not eliminate road noise and wind noise from the Model3. After reviewing all those posts and review of the kits, I figured that since none of you have been able to achieve that elusive goal, let alone even come close to reducing the noise, made me ask the question: What are we missing?

So as I kept driving my M3, I attempted to focus on finding those missing sources ie where is the noise emanating into the cabin from. Turns out they are the 4 corners of the cabin ie the A-Pillars and C-pillars. More specifically, the A-Pillars for wind noise and C-Pillars for road noise.

#1 - The solution for wind noise is the following - Z Weatherstrip down inside the leading edge of the front door, and foam block at the top triangle where the front fender, windshield and door meet.

Z-Weatherstrip

Foam at the junction

#2 - The solution for road noise is the following - 2" Fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells.

I hope this helps everyone who have been pursuing this goal. Thanks for all the contributions and many thanks to @XPsionic for his constant engagement and interest.

 

[enemji]

Don’t forget to use the adhesion promoter when attaching the z strip

LLPT 94 Adhesion Promoter Sponge Applicator Wipes 1 Bottle Primer for Acrylic Double Sided Mounting Molding Tape Amazon.com

 

[enemji]

Thank you.
I still have a bit of wind noise coming from a gap at the upper rear edge of the glass next to the B-pillar. I am thinking of buffering the existing molding from behind, for greater pressure against the glass. I am unsure whether there is access behind the upper B-pillar plastic panel.

I added a rubber strip to solve that issue

 

[clyde]

Thanks for the tip to buy an accelerator!
C

 

[mimetz]

Through the last few months, I have been watching and reading up the various posts regarding the many ways many of you all have attempted, as well as the various kits available online, to reduce if not eliminate road noise and wind noise from the Model3. After reviewing all those posts and review of the kits, I figured that since none of you have been able to achieve that elusive goal, let alone even come close to reducing the noise, made me ask the question: What are we missing?

So as I kept driving my M3, I attempted to focus on finding those missing sources ie where is the noise emanating into the cabin from. Turns out they are the 4 corners of the cabin ie the A-Pillars and C-pillars. More specifically, the A-Pillars for wind noise and C-Pillars for road noise.

#1 - The solution for wind noise is the following - Z Weatherstrip down inside the leading edge of the front door, and foam block at the top triangle where the front fender, windshield and door meet.

Z-Weatherstrip
View attachment 917275

Foam at the junction
View attachment 917276



#2 - The solution for road noise is the following - 2" Fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells.
View attachment 917277

View attachment 917284

I hope this helps everyone who have been pursuing this goal. Thanks for all the contributions and many thanks to @XPsionic for his constant engagement and interest.

Re "the 2" fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells." I have two questions. First, is it difficult to remove the rear seat side panels? I have a Model Y any suggestions? Second, did you use simple home attic insulation, or something special?

 

[enemji]

Re "the 2" fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells." I have two questions. First, is it difficult to remove the rear seat side panels? I have a Model Y any suggestions? Second, did you use simple home attic insulation, or something special?

While it is not difficult, it needs to be done carefully as the bottom fastener goes vertically down and the upper lock goes horizontal into a slot on the metal C-pillar panel. So you have to pull back from the top and then pull up to pull it out, and reverse to put it back. If not done right, you might end up breaking the plastic tabs

 

[enemji]

Re "the 2" fiber insulation behind the rear seat side panels that cover the rear wheel wells." I have two questions. First, is it difficult to remove the rear seat side panels? I have a Model Y any suggestions? Second, did you use simple home attic insulation, or something special?

I am sure home attic insulation would work too. I just don't like how itchy it is.

 

[enemji]

Happy to report back that it worked amazingly well. All the little clicks and rattles disappeared after the giant foam piece was installed. The car definitely feels quieter on top of the missing clicks and rattles, I'm guessing a bit of the trunk reverb is being absorbed by the foam, the car simply sounds different while rolling on a flat surface with no bumps (and thus, no rattles). However the overall feeling of tire noise in the cabin remains more or less the same.

It takes 3 seconds to take the foam off of the latches if I ever need to fold the seats forward, which I rarely ever do, so it's staying there for now. This would look a lot better if the foam is black in color.

More research on this rear seatback rattle and I finally have the real solution.

This rattle happens because of the plastic covers of the latch. They meet as the seatback moves when the car flexes. The real fix is to attach a rubber shim on that plastic so that there is no gap between the two seatbacks.

The official Tesla fix to wrap the latch with felt tape is stupid. It only works in certain cases if the latch is able to grip real good and does not let the seatback move.

 

[XPsionic]

More research on this rear seatback rattle and I finally have the real solution.

This rattle happens because of the plastic covers of the latch. They meet as the seatback moves when the car flexes. The real fix is to attach a rubber shim on that plastic so that there is no gap between the two seatbacks.

The official Tesla fix to wrap the latch with felt tape is stupid. It only works in certain cases if the latch is able to grip real good and does not let the seatback move.

I see, on my car there's still some small ticking noises from the rear. The seat material rubs against each other over rough bumps, and the rear deck/pillar plastics also have a very tiny rattle on really rough sharp bumps on the road, but otherwise it's quiet. The seatback latch on mine is completely covered by foam so at least on my car that's not the issue anymore.

 

[enemji]

I see, on my car there's still some small ticking noises from the rear. The seat material rubs against each other over rough bumps, and the rear deck/pillar plastics also have a very tiny rattle on really rough sharp bumps on the road, but otherwise it's quiet. The seatback latch on mine is completely covered by foam so at least on my car that's not the issue anymore.

Shim it!!!

8 in. Composite Shim (12-Bundle) 10011700 - The Home Depot

Utilizing composite technology provide an environmentally responsible product which will handle all of your home improvement shim needs. Composite shims are perfect for any repair or remodeling need. The Timberwolf composite shim snaps cleaner and easier than wood saving you time.

www.homedepot.com

 

[XPsionic]

Shim it!!!

Already did using strips of the fuzzy sides of velcro strips. It helped a lot, it's just super hard to narrow down what's making the last 5% of the noise because it only happens over really sharp bumps and I can't re-create it when I'm in the back of the car parked. I can bang on the rear shelf and plastic trims pretty hard and make noises that sound "like" the rattle but at the same time, not really finding a way to shim them to eliminate the noise.

That said, all the shimming and foaming I did already removed most of the noises over smaller bumps or simply going up slanted driveways that causes the chassis to flex (and therefore causing the seat to very slightly move against each other making noises), so I'm not that bothered.

 

[enemji]

Already did using strips of the fuzzy sides of velcro strips. It helped a lot, it's just super hard to narrow down what's making the last 5% of the noise because it only happens over really sharp bumps and I can't re-create it when I'm in the back of the car parked. I can bang on the rear shelf and plastic trims pretty hard and make noises that sound "like" the rattle but at the same time, not really finding a way to shim them to eliminate the noise.

That said, all the shimming and foaming I did already removed most of the noises over smaller bumps or simply going up slanted driveways that causes the chassis to flex (and therefore causing the seat to very slightly move against each other making noises), so I'm not that bothered.

I made it even better by using this behind the seatback

Non-Abrasive Grip Tape Strips by CatTongue (Black)

Amazon.com

 

[XPsionic]

I made it even better by using this behind the seatback

Non-Abrasive Grip Tape Strips by CatTongue (Black)

Amazon.com

You put these all around the U shaped latch?

 

[enemji]

You put these all around the U shaped latch?

 

[enemji]

You put these all around the U shaped latch?

After this upgrade I tested by going slow over wavy back alley roads, inclined driveways, crossways over bumpers. Nary a rattle or a squeak.

 

[enemji]

I see, on my car there's still some small ticking noises from the rear. The seat material rubs against each other over rough bumps, and the rear deck/pillar plastics also have a very tiny rattle on really rough sharp bumps on the road, but otherwise it's quiet. The seatback latch on mine is completely covered by foam so at least on my car that's not the issue anymore.

So the shim worked really well to eliminate all the gaps and eliminate the seat halves from moving and rattling. But the shim is not a usable solution if you are going to fold your seats down. So I ended up opening the seatback zipper on the passenger side and stuffing rubber foam strips on the sides next to the bolster, in essence making the seat wider by 15mm. This made it real tight. Later I will be going out and see how well that works.

 

[Tha_Ape]

I had a lot of wind noise coming from my drivers side window..... the tech said just give it a few months for the seals to set in. I did, no change. I eventually set up a service appointment, went for a ride with a tech who verified the noise was not normal, then he spent about 30min with the car and fixed it.

I think he used a heat gun to reform the seal, but I'm not 100% sure how he did it. Anyway, the result was night and day. No more wind noise.

 

[polyphonic54]

the tech said just give it a few months for the seals to set in

Is that actually a thing? That sounds like he didn't want to do the work. As cars age there is more wind noise as the seals degrade.

 

[Tha_Ape]

Is that actually a thing? That sounds like he didn't want to do the work. As cars age there is more wind noise as the seals degrade.

He said so, this was a few days after I got my car.

The tech who fixed it said it IS a thing but you should only wait a couple of weeks, not months.

 

[enemji]

I tried another experiment and it seems to do the job. This is related to the B pillar wind noise/whistling at high speeds especially crosswinds.

I used U channel weatherstripping used for door edges and put them on the rubber edge.

BEFORE

AFTER

Rubber Edge Trim U Channel Edge Trim Sheet Metal Edge Guard Protector, Self-Adhesive EPDM Seal Strip for Panels, Car Doors, Steel Plates, Hatches, Table Corners, Fit 1/16"(1.6mm), 20Ft Length https://a.co/d/fjSP17E

 

[tivoboy]

There IS often a whistle there,, but has anyone tried to source a RATTLE there.. what is involved to get to the internals of a B pillar and bottom it out?