Thanks for posting the percentage and rated miles. That was all we needed to figure out how much total energy is available in your battery (MrBrock performed the calculation flawlessly).
I missed that earlier, but that drive was Springfield to Sisters and not Corvallis to Sisters? Since you were Supercharging at Springfield, what was your charge percentage when you left? I do not trust the car computer when it says "it is safe to proceed to next charge stop" especially in cold weather or when you will be going significantly uphill.
Sorry, I missed that picture for some reason. Didn't mean to upset you.
teslamotorsclub.com
Sorry, I missed that picture for some reason. Didn't mean to upset you.
As far as something being wrong with the battery, we are telling you there is not. You are only at 12% degradation. Tesla will ignore all requests from you related to a battery unless there is 30% degradation or more. You want to spend $30000 for 12% more range for a few months? It will come back down to 12% within a year or two. Also, 12% is 30 miles of RATED range. You are saying at 100% with 220 miles of RATED range, you couldn't make it 104 miles. That means the $30k you are spending would get you at most 15 miles in that situation. Complete waste of money. You would be much better off selling your Model X and putting all that money towards getting a newer one rated above 300 miles.
Another thought for cold weather driving, you may want to bump up your tire pressures a bit, slightly less rolling resistance. Related to that, do you have all season tires or more of an offroad/winter tread? This could cause displayed range to be much higher than actual. Usally this would show up in your wh/mile readings but maybe not in this case.
I am also wondering if there might be some type of calibration issue where the battery doesnt know how much capacity it actually has on the bottom end. If you consistently keep charge above 50%, the BMS won't be able to get readings at lower percentages. This thread is a great read for how to alter charging habits to allow the BMS to more properly display remaining range.
How I Recovered Half of my Battery's Lost Capacity
Like many others, I have been concerned with loss of 100% indicated battery range on one of my Model 3s. My P3D (build date 9/13/2018, delivery date 10/8/2018) had gotten down to 270.3 miles at 100% charge on January 20, 2020, at about 30,700 miles, which is a loss of 40.8 miles since the car...
Those are good, but there is one more that is VITAL and will have a much bigger impact. In the car's settings, @praskal you need to find and turn on "Range Mode". This scenario is exactly what it was made for. Range mode does two main things. It will tone down the power consumption of the cabin heating. But the much bigger thing is that it will greatly reduce the battery heating during the drive. With range mode off, the car does warm up the battery quite a bit to get it fairly warm, so it can take a lot of recharging from the regen braking, etc. Well, that's fine for around town, where range isn't an issue, but when you're trying to stretch a distance, all of that extra battery heating is diverting energy away from the driving distance you could have. I have an old 2014 Model S, and turning on Range Mode cuts the energy consumption down significantly and will help a lot in a long cold drive.
As a MY owner, I had no idea about range mode so definitely take it from someone with an older car like yours. Also, the battery heating might not appear in the consumption calculation (coukd be totally wrong here) so that is why the estimated range to empty is wrong.
When I'm trying to make a longer distance, here's the thing. I will start out slower and see how it's going. You can watch the projection updating in real time of what your end % is looking like. If you're getting ahead of it, and the remaining % is rising, then it's easy to speed up some later in the drive to consume the extra. But if you start out fast, and get yourself in a jam, you're really not going to like trying to claw back extra miles out of nothing on the latter half of the drive and the stress that comes from that. So I highly recommend starting off slower and see how things are going.
Most of us would say you don't need to sacrifice the seat warmer because it's not worth the tradeoff. Seat warmers are a very low consumption for heating, and since it's going right to you, it gives you more tolerance for it being a little cooler in the car. So maybe you can have the heat set at 67 instead of 72 or something like that? Heating up all that cabin air and then how quickly it's being lost through the glass is the big deal. Running with it off for some sections will certainly help cut the energy use, but I just don't think that should be necessary. With the other tips of charging right before the drive, doing a little preheat before you leave, and Range Mode, I think this should take care of itself pretty well. And seriously, not speeding.
I should add, on top of range mode, Tesla's recommended tire pressure is personally, downright low, and feels like driving on a flat. These cars are heavy. For 11 years and 450,000 miles, I've been doing 50psi all the way around in winter, and in summer 48 front 50 rear (as the car exhausts the warm air from the radiators on the front tires, pressure expands.
Bummer but thanks for posting that. Seems silly for Tesla to abandon these high dollar early adopters. It’s just software.
I, too have a 2016 signature model x with 65,000 miles. I live in Canada where the winters are brutal. My warranty on the battery ends next month and I have calculated that I have lost 13% of capacity over the last 8 years.
