I can't make the decision if I should move forward given layout and financials. Please share your opinion!
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gavine
Petrol Head turned EV Enthusiast
25% of my decision was financial. The rest was environmental and the "feel good" factor.
Can you share the text version around your question? I am not clicking a video to review your question.
jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
You give minimal useful information over 13 minutes, so you can expect more people to ask relevant questions, such as where you live, what power company do you use, and do they have net metering, time-of-use rates, or some combination...
I think you need to find a local solar installer, rather than working through Tesla.
First, Tesla seems to have a "4 sizes fit all" philosophy. If they can't fit their "medium" suite of panels on your roof, you'll get "small". A local installer can customize the installation, and maximize the number of panels installed. He may also have a better relationship with local code inspectors, and know how to best fit their requirements. Your 7.6 KW system seems small for a house with air conditioners to run. Granted, the more you can produce, the less you have to buy, so you can assume ALL your production will offset your electric bill. That makes your payback easy to calculate (net system cost / [annual production * cost of electricity]).
Second, Tesla uses a single inverter, which is cheaper to install, but tends to base its output on the lowest-producing panel (or optimizer, if installed). With your multiple roof angles, a microinverter system (each panel has its own inverter) will likely give you much higher efficiency, i.e., more KWh/day per installed KW production.
Third, a local installer may have newer, higher-output panels available.The same size panel might have as little as 290 or as much as 350 Watts output. Note also that these are always cited as DC output, so AC output from the inverter will be around 85-90% (e.g., my 335W panels each get 295W max from the microinverter, for 88% DC-AC conversion efficiency). Note that especially on cloudier days, higher efficiency means more output as well.
Fourth, are you sure 3 Powerwalls will run your entire house? A 200 Amp service requires 2 Powerwalls for a whole-house backup. If you have 400A service, you may need 4 Powerwalls, especially if you have high-demand air conditioners (starting current, which is nominally twice running current, is the big consideration). For a brand new house, planning on anything less than whole-house backup will be short-sighted.
Plan to put your Powerwalls as close as possible to your main circuit breaker panel. Inside, in a basement, is ideal. If you put them on the floor, you can stack as many as 3 out from the wall. With 4 Powerwalls, you could have a stack of 3 plus a single next to them, if space warrants.
Unless your electric company has time-of-use rates that will allow you to shift to solar and battery power during peak rate times, there is no sense in including the Powerwalls in the payback equation. Just consider them a better alternative to a generator, with the bonus of allowing you to run the house and/or recharge the batteries with solar during a grid outage (prohibited with a generator, even with an "automatic" transfer switch).
I think you need to find a local solar installer, rather than working through Tesla.
First, Tesla seems to have a "4 sizes fit all" philosophy. If they can't fit their "medium" suite of panels on your roof, you'll get "small". A local installer can customize the installation, and maximize the number of panels installed. He may also have a better relationship with local code inspectors, and know how to best fit their requirements. Your 7.6 KW system seems small for a house with air conditioners to run. Granted, the more you can produce, the less you have to buy, so you can assume ALL your production will offset your electric bill. That makes your payback easy to calculate (net system cost / [annual production * cost of electricity]).
Second, Tesla uses a single inverter, which is cheaper to install, but tends to base its output on the lowest-producing panel (or optimizer, if installed). With your multiple roof angles, a microinverter system (each panel has its own inverter) will likely give you much higher efficiency, i.e., more KWh/day per installed KW production.
Third, a local installer may have newer, higher-output panels available.The same size panel might have as little as 290 or as much as 350 Watts output. Note also that these are always cited as DC output, so AC output from the inverter will be around 85-90% (e.g., my 335W panels each get 295W max from the microinverter, for 88% DC-AC conversion efficiency). Note that especially on cloudier days, higher efficiency means more output as well.
Fourth, are you sure 3 Powerwalls will run your entire house? A 200 Amp service requires 2 Powerwalls for a whole-house backup. If you have 400A service, you may need 4 Powerwalls, especially if you have high-demand air conditioners (starting current, which is nominally twice running current, is the big consideration). For a brand new house, planning on anything less than whole-house backup will be short-sighted.
Plan to put your Powerwalls as close as possible to your main circuit breaker panel. Inside, in a basement, is ideal. If you put them on the floor, you can stack as many as 3 out from the wall. With 4 Powerwalls, you could have a stack of 3 plus a single next to them, if space warrants.
Unless your electric company has time-of-use rates that will allow you to shift to solar and battery power during peak rate times, there is no sense in including the Powerwalls in the payback equation. Just consider them a better alternative to a generator, with the bonus of allowing you to run the house and/or recharge the batteries with solar during a grid outage (prohibited with a generator, even with an "automatic" transfer switch).
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CrazyRabbit
Active Member
process is frustrating if you know what you want, simple if you don't give a rats a$$.
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