Pictures along the way will also help you remember how to put it back together
For major disassembly like this, I've used a gopro on a headband and talked myself through the process as I go (to annotate the video)
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
For major disassembly like this, I've used a gopro on a headband and talked myself through the process as I go (to annotate the video)
P85DBeast
Side tEsLa
UPDATE
after spending a few hours scratching my head, I decided to hook up an external 12V with jumpers behind the nose cone to see If I could get the car doors to unlock/extend so I could gain access to the car..
AAAAND.....after connecting the terminals for 30 seconds I hear a "snap" and a burning electronics type smell, lets call it a night
after spending a few hours scratching my head, I decided to hook up an external 12V with jumpers behind the nose cone to see If I could get the car doors to unlock/extend so I could gain access to the car..
AAAAND.....after connecting the terminals for 30 seconds I hear a "snap" and a burning electronics type smell, lets call it a night
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
I would strongly suggest not applying any power at all until you can ensure all the components are dry. Number one thing is your own safety (and if car is not in an open area, consider the risk of fire).
You may find the first responders guide helpful, but you really should get your hands on a service manual of some sort.
https://www.teslamotors.com/firstresponders
Usually the way they gain access without power is by smashing one of the windows, but you may be trying to avoid that. I'm not sure if you can. You may try to find a locksmith.
mechapreneur
Member
What a cool project. But seriously, what a daunting challenge given a complete lack of documentation on this vehicle. Couple thoughts for you to mull over:
So many fun things to do. Good luck!
- People talk about Tesla remote disabling the car, no problem, disconnect the cellular radio when you find it.
- Do not power up the car. What you want to do is power up completely isolated systems, after you have flushed and cleaned them out.
- Seawater? Rinse with freshwater to displace as much salt as you can. I've cleaned electronics boards back to working with vinegar rinse and a toothbrush, then distilled water, then compressed air to dry it out underneath everything.
- You may want to strip out the carpet & seats and treat them differently, prevent mold.
- The parking brake actuators may respond to 12v current applied locally (after you disconnect them!). There is one on each rear wheel. You may need to hose down those motors with fresh water and blow them out with air first...
So many fun things to do. Good luck!
The easiest way is to stick a stiff wire (think coat hanger) through the door seal and pull either front door handle. This will open the door w/o any power. Only the front doors will do this, the rear doors will not open by the inside handle, though they can be opened by a little pull cable at the base of the rear seat cushion on each side. The rear hatch can be released by removing the little rectangular cover on the hatch over the light and pulling the black tab.
Once you get the doors opened, at least on one door, manually "trip" the door latch mechanism so it will not latch if the door closes. I'd recommend trying to get the windows down. This may be tricky because the motors are not just "dumb" DC motors, but they have intelligence and thus probably damaged circuitry. If you got lucky and the motors are ok, All doors except the drivers door will operate with their local switches if you unplug the Pektron module in both front doors and apply +12v directly to the load side of each door's window fuse. Use a meter to make sure you are on the load side (the other side will have low resistance to the + terminal on the battery). The fuses are as follows:
Right Front: F30
Right Rear: F28
Left Rear: F37
Before you put full 12v power on the fuse, connect a 12V light bulb (minimum 5W) in series with the power source. If the bulb glows bright, disconnect power, this means there is a short. If the bulb glows very dim or not at all, then replace the bulb with a 20A fuse and try the switch, If the window doesn't move, immediately depower it!
- - - Updated - - -
Yes, you can manually back off each actuator. These are sealed motors, so they will still be fine. Once you get the hatch open, pull the carpet out of the right quarter panel and find the Pektron parking brake control module. It will either be the only module on the right wheel arch, or 1 of 2 if your car has an electric hatch actuator.
Disconnect the 2 connectors, and on the gray connector locate pins 3, 4, 5 & 6. The left motor is 3 & 4, and the right is 5 & 6. They are just DC motors, so putting +12v in one direction will open the caliper and the other will close it.
UPDATE, ACCESS GRANTED
Thanks all!
During the hissy fit the car threw when I attached the 12V to the jumper cables the drivers side window opened about 2 inches. The rear windows went halfway down.... yeesssss. I used the strength of Thor himself to force the front drivers side window down but I couldn't get reach my hand in to open the door... ended up crawling through the rear windows to open the drivers door, pulled on the drivers door handle.... nothing.... pulled again....nothing. I read somewhere that there is a manual override if the door circuitry failed so I gave the handle 2 quick pulls in succession to enable the mechanical opener and the door opened!!!
Ended up forcing all of the windows down by hand at least 3-4 inches, why? The service manual states that if 12V power is attached when the windows are fully up then they can shatter when the motors activate.
Covered the top part of the car in plastic wrap and ran this overnight. Don't want to use heat to accelerate mold.
Thanks all!
During the hissy fit the car threw when I attached the 12V to the jumper cables the drivers side window opened about 2 inches. The rear windows went halfway down.... yeesssss. I used the strength of Thor himself to force the front drivers side window down but I couldn't get reach my hand in to open the door... ended up crawling through the rear windows to open the drivers door, pulled on the drivers door handle.... nothing.... pulled again....nothing. I read somewhere that there is a manual override if the door circuitry failed so I gave the handle 2 quick pulls in succession to enable the mechanical opener and the door opened!!!
Ended up forcing all of the windows down by hand at least 3-4 inches, why? The service manual states that if 12V power is attached when the windows are fully up then they can shatter when the motors activate.
Covered the top part of the car in plastic wrap and ran this overnight. Don't want to use heat to accelerate mold.
Now that you've got access to the car you can pop the frunk and get to work!
Open it by pulling the lever under the glove box, and then you have to depress the secondary latch on the hood. The first responders guide has some good pictures on pg 23.
Open it by pulling the lever under the glove box, and then you have to depress the secondary latch on the hood. The first responders guide has some good pictures on pg 23.
Well, you're definitely going to have to remove and repair the battery pack if it was submerged. The pack is mostly sealed, but in a submersion event the pressure will be able to let water in through the little check valves and such. And here is the issue. While the cells would maybe survive submersion (probably dead, though) the BMS connections probably wont. Tesla's BMS connects to each individual cell group using small copper wires welded to the aluminum bus plates with ultrasonic welding. Unfortunately this process has a tendency to fail in the presence of water. So you're going to have to drop the pack, open it up, and remove every module to inspect these connections.
The electronics themselves are probably fine throughout the car, though, believe it or not. Every circuit board in the car I've seen has a conformal coating on it which would mostly protect it from water damage I'd believe.
I don't believe the HVJB would be water tight, though.
*shrugs* I'm cheering for you, but I think it's going to be a long road.
The electronics themselves are probably fine throughout the car, though, believe it or not. Every circuit board in the car I've seen has a conformal coating on it which would mostly protect it from water damage I'd believe.
I don't believe the HVJB would be water tight, though.
*shrugs* I'm cheering for you, but I think it's going to be a long road.
SIDE NOTE
I know this isn't for everyone but I just had to take a moment to sit back and enjoy it. I really enjoy the low look. After the car is finished in 2019 I hope by then there is a way to control the airbag system manually for a new Normal, Low, and "Slammed" setting
I know this isn't for everyone but I just had to take a moment to sit back and enjoy it. I really enjoy the low look. After the car is finished in 2019 I hope by then there is a way to control the airbag system manually for a new Normal, Low, and "Slammed" setting
ArtInCT
Always Learning
SabrToothSqrl
Active Member
Jool
Member
Man that car is so low it makes my past cars that were lowered with aftermarket springs seem like 4x4s!
I don't have any technical expertise to provide, but I do wish you the best of luck. Flood-damaged vehicles are never fun. Hopefully you can get some use out of it :smile:
I don't have any technical expertise to provide, but I do wish you the best of luck. Flood-damaged vehicles are never fun. Hopefully you can get some use out of it :smile:
grichard
Member De-Luxe
Hm, yes, that is the question.
I've mostly seen Magic Smoke Replacement Kits, like the one below, in relation to British cars. But it might work on a Tesla. Might need several.
Seriously, good luck with the project!
Similar threads
