Use the UMC, if you can, that's included. I'm lucky I suppose, I have a licensed electrician friend who can look over my work, and permits don't cost us. So, $84 for me to buy the parts for a NEMA 14-50. If I'd hired my electrician friend I can't imagine I'd have paid more than $150, more. He only charged me $400 for a standby generator hookup, and that's 10x more complicated than hanging a 14-50 outlet.
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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health
- Thread starter KK_RedM3
- Start date
JCtx
Member
My 2021 does. And that's what I typically use, unless eating a snack, or something (to stay on my lane). If you only move down the gear lever once (gray steering wheel indicator), you get regular cruise. Or maybe it's adaptive (haven't checked, since I've only used it on empty highways), but nothing else. If you move the lever down twice, then you get autopilot, and the blue steering wheel shows up. I had the 3-month FSD promotion, and FSD was the same thing as autopilot on open highways (no need to change lanes, etc). On my other vehicle, I can choose among regular cruise, adaptive cruise, and 'highway assist' cruise, which is basically Tesla's autopilot. That's nice.
Your 2021 model 3 has autopilot. Autopilot is traffic aware cruise control + autosteer, which is activated by one downward pull on the stalk.
===================================
Autopilot and Full Self-Driving Capability | Tesla Support
Autopilot is an advanced driver assistance system that enhances safety and convenience behind the wheel. When used properly, Autopilot reduces your overall workload as a driver. Learn more about Autopilot.
(for those that dont like to click the link
Autopilot and Full Self-Driving Capability Features
Autopilot is a suite of driver assistance features that comes standard with the purchase of a new car or can be purchased after delivery, and brings new functionality to your Tesla that makes driving safer and less stressful. Available packages include:Autopilot
- Traffic-Aware Cruise Control: Matches the speed of your car to that of the surrounding traffic
- Autosteer: Assists in steering within a clearly marked lane, and uses traffic-aware cruise control
Candleflame
Active Member
There absoloutely is a reserve on the model 3. It is around 4.5%. please dont spread bullshit here.
Candleflame
Active Member
Consensus is that closer to 55% is better buy noone really knows how much better. It is likely going to be insignificant. If you got access to frequent charging id use 85%, if you live somewhere where its hot then 80%. Otherwise just 90%Thanks! I did read through that one alreadyWhat's the consensus on max % charge for optimal battery life? The manual is surprising lacking in that department.
Newbie question. I’ve my Model 3 only 2 weeks, never charged to 100%. However the app tells me that if I were to charge to 100% my range would be 542km, rather than the WLTP 580km?
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Your car (I think) should show EPA range. Not WLTP. Even in the UK. However, 542km is an odd value at 100%. (Ignore this value if you're extrapolating from 10% or whatever - it is garbage in that case, too much extrapolation error - only pay attention to the value if you're already charged to 70-80%.) The LR 2021 should charge to EPA max of about 568km when new. If you're really at 542km at 100% in a brand new LR 2021 Non-P, that seems quite bad (implies about 74kWh rather than the 77.8+kWh it should be when new).
In the end the miles/km don't matter - it's the energy they represent (and these values have a very specific relationship). But 542km EPA when fully charged to 100% would be very low for a brand new car and indicates a very low energy capacity. I would charge to 100% (and give it time to stop charging) and see what it says - then immediately go for a drive or turn on the heat to drop the energy by 5%. The battery could be out of balance, etc. Or there is user error in the value you are reporting.
Report back with some pictures!
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Perhaps you missed the follow-up discussion with @AlanSubie4Life where we clarified and explained where I realized there was a difference, where it was the Model S where the reserve specifically was removed to not be there, but the Model 3 does have it. So I wasn't trying to "spread bullshit". It was forgetting there was an unusual difference between the different models. Be polite please.
That will be due to Tesla still capping the Panasonic battery I assume to match the LG possibly? Circa 75kwh from memory. No UK car has shown the 352 miles as yet I believe. Happy to be corrected though.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Ah, of course. I had forgotten about that entirely. You are right.
542km or 336/337mi, approximately, is currently the max for the LR (78kWh) in Europe. (I think!)
It’s very confusing, since the WLTP numbers have been updated recently so they’re probably increasing available energy at some point. I can’t keep it all straight about what is happening right now for EU deliveries - and probably depends on the battery delivered with your vehicle.
The new deliveries in Europe with the 82.1kWh battery appear to be limited to 77.8kWh (probably closer to 79-80kWh) and get the 353 rated mile (568 km) number.
So the report above appears to reflect a delivery of the older style 77.8kWh battery (limited to 75kWh) or the LG battery (max capacity about 75kWh). Not one of the newer 82.1kWh battery vehicles. (Maybe none of those are going to the UK.)
@Piero71: This is the thread to read up on with the detailed info on that, people are posting their data, and this is a specific recent report, with an 82.1kWh battery - which likely is not what you have in your vehicle (but not sure):
MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc
I've had my 2021 Model 3 SR+ for almost two months. Installed TeslaMate soon after taking delivery, so I have lots of data. I saw the sticky post about using the car's energy screen to calculate battery capacity and decided to track my battery. Here's what I started today: Does that look...
teslamotorsclub.com
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This is a long thread so I'm just going to ask. I'm charging my 2021 M3 LR to ~85%. I usually only plug it in once the estimated range gets into the low 100miles. Lowest I've gone is about ~24%. I've charged to 100% once (got 354 miles of estimated range).
The car only gets charged on the mobile charger at home (@32A) every 3-5 days. Is there anything I should or should not be doing differently?
The car only gets charged on the mobile charger at home (@32A) every 3-5 days. Is there anything I should or should not be doing differently?
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Probably not. Lots of opinions on this. Shallow cycles are allegedly slightly better for the battery, all else being equal. So it might be better to set a limit of 70% and just charge every day, like Tesla recommends (some would say 85% is too high for a level you consistently use - though of course there is no problem with charging the battery to that level in general).
Realistically, we have no data (from vehicles) on whether any of this matters, and the preponderance of the evidence suggests relatively normal use like you are doing will lead to negligible difference vs. a very shallow cycle, plugged in every day arrangement, or any other normal charging regimen.
The biggest factors appear to be use of the battery and age of the battery, and the manufacture date of your battery (not the same as age). There's some thoughts that higher temperatures are bad but the data is very limited and inconclusive there. Good to keep your car as cool as possible in any case; can't hurt, and it's good for the paint to be in the shade most of the time.
You should just do what is most convenient for you. There's actually a lot to be said for the plugging in every day, if you have a very convenient plug which takes seconds to plug in - there's no way to end up in a situation where you "forgot" to charge and this way you should have ample charge for any particular day. There's no thinking, which is a plus. You just always plug it in, out of habit, just as Tesla recommends. (And it keeps the cycles shallow.)
There are plenty of people who follow excellent regimens who have lost 10% of their capacity over two years. So don't stress about it. Do what leads to the least amount of thought. That's one of the key benefits of an EV - never worrying or even thinking about filling up. Set and forget. You're definitely going to lose capacity no matter what, and the amount probably does not depend much on what you do (but don't charge to 100% all the time or anything crazy like that - that will probably matter).
(As mentioned many times here - shallow cycles may over time lead to BMS drift (capacity estimation error) on some vehicles. Depends. Very easy to resolve, and in most cases owners will have times where their car sits at a low SoC once in a while (for example, when you come home, if you have scheduled charging set, it will sit for hours at a lower SoC) - so again, as long as your vehicle is sleeping reliably and does so at a lower SoC once in a while, this isn't really an issue. BMS drift isn't really a problem anyway. Just make sure Sentry is turned off at home so the car can sleep there and probably it'll never be an issue for most people. )
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Thanks for the information. I may try and leave it plugged in more often, however my charging situation isn't perfect. My garage setup means I have to run the cable between the rear of the car and the garage door. I run the risk that one of the kids may get it caught on the garage door going up and down. (I have some plans to suspend the cable to make this more convenient, just haven't had time.) I'll also knock the charge limit down to 80%
Car is set to turn sentry mode off while at home and it sits in the garage out of the sun. So other than it being about 95F in the garage 6 months a year (hello SE Texas) it's not getting too hot.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Yes, that sort of issue is very common. Just do what makes sense and is safe for your situation. Having a super convenient plug-in is nice, but there are extenuating factors here. Suspended cables come with their own risks. Sounds like a good plan.
JCtx
Member
That's basically what I'm doing, even though I could leave it connected every day. When I bought it 6 months ago, the consensus was that it was better to maintain charge between 50 and 70%, so that's what I do: charge to 70%, and recharge when down to 50% or so. And I'm going to continue doing that, since there will ALWAYS be different points of view, and I don't want to waste time checking comments every month. Ha ha. With your situation, I'd keep charging whenever necessary, but maybe don't let it drop that much. In our case, our vehicles get used very little, so it's not an issue to only have 20% variation, which might take several days. But if you need to use the car more, you'd have to find out if it's better to charge to a higher state, or let the battery run down to a lower state, so you can minimize the charging delta, but not having to charge daily either. Hope you find what is acceptable to you
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JCtx
Member
I do have that, but as I mentioned, it's when the steering wheel turns blue after a SECOND downward pull. I'm almost sure it still does the same thing after FSD was dropped (free for 3 months... and never used it, except for a few seconds. Ha ha), but haven't used cruise since then. So just to be sure, will try it next time I use the car, and see exactly what it does, and post results.
If you only had an FSD preview, that is now over, I know what the results of that should be but you will find out yourself when you test it.
Where did you get this report from?Went to 524 once after the update and now hovering around 500km estimated at 100%. Just under 5% degradation after one year if we go with the latest charge estimate of 501.06
View attachment 430211
A little update, ScanMyTesla was showing my battery capacity to be 68.1kWh (from 78.2kWh). It varied a bit according to charges and was always oscillating between 68.1 and 68.5).
I charged to 100% and let the car sleep for a while. Over the course of the week I got it down to 15% driving around.
I drained it to below 5% by putting the heater to the max and having a door opened, this was using over 8kW (was surprised on high how that could go)
I then let the car sleep over over half a day at that SoC.
Then charged to 100% and let the car sleep again for a while.
Battery was now showing 70.1kWh
After about 4 90%->60% cycles, capacity is now showing 70.4kWh 461km , which is the most my car has shown since upgrading to 2020.44.15 back in November where all of a sudden range went down 20km.
So I'm back to a 7.8% battery degradation (According to initial estimated range of 500km), and 10% if comparing from 78.2kWh.
I charged to 100% and let the car sleep for a while. Over the course of the week I got it down to 15% driving around.
I drained it to below 5% by putting the heater to the max and having a door opened, this was using over 8kW (was surprised on high how that could go)
I then let the car sleep over over half a day at that SoC.
Then charged to 100% and let the car sleep again for a while.
Battery was now showing 70.1kWh
After about 4 90%->60% cycles, capacity is now showing 70.4kWh 461km , which is the most my car has shown since upgrading to 2020.44.15 back in November where all of a sudden range went down 20km.
So I'm back to a 7.8% battery degradation (According to initial estimated range of 500km), and 10% if comparing from 78.2kWh.
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